Tag: restaurants

The Ultimate Los Angeles Road Trip

Posted on by John Ortved

Los Angeles tends to be the beginning, or the end, of many a memorable adventure. It was the launch pad and the landing strip for Hunter S. Thompson’s “fear and loathing” – and at least a million less famous trips. But LA and its sunny sprawl can play host to an idyllic, self-contained road trip.

It might already be known as a driving city, but such functionality has no place in your vacation mindset. No matter where you’re starting from – east or west, the Valley or downtown – you and your car (and whoever you take along) can make more than just a day of it, particularly with three Four Seasons outposts to call home base. Here, the local spots our knowledgeable staffers say should most certainly have a place on your itinerary.

Silverlake Map

The provenance of hipsters and the creative class, these East Side neighbourhoods are the perfect foil for, or respite after, a day of culture.


Scenes of Silverlake LA

EAT

Dinette

Gareth Kanter’s breakfast window (1608 1/2 Sunset Blvd) is the perfect place to start your day – on the go. Try the scrambled eggs on toast, served with a sprinkling of Parmesan and delicate shaved ham. The pastries are tops, too. We recommend taking your snack, or even just your coffee, a couple of blocks south, where you can picnic on the banks of Echo Park Lake.

VISIT

Cactus Store

What Cactus Store’s (1505 1/2 Echo Park Ave) name doesn’t convey is the Zen-like atmosphere of this tiny piece of the desert that’s been transported to Echo Park Avenue. Pick up a zero-effort plant, or just browse the needles of hundreds of unique cacti sourced from around the globe. And yes, these plants travel – that is, they ship.

DRINK

The Friend

This cotton candy-coloured spot (2611 Hyperion Ave) is cosy yet playful – an unexpected blend of 1950s diner and French cafe decor. Cocktail titles draw upon Los Angeles characters like The Dancer and The Artist and served alongside pinball machines.

Arts District LA Map

Los Angeles is home to some of the country’s best endowed, and best curated, museums. By all means, check out the Broad (pronounced “brode,” as in it rhymes with “road”) and LACMA, but don’t miss the Arts District, a section of LA’s former industrial home that was recently settled by contemporary galleries and has since been redeveloped with them in mind.


LA's Arts District

EAT

Bavel

Ori Menashe and his wife, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis, brought fine Mediterranean dining to LA’s Industrial District with the incomparable Bestia. But they may have bested themselves with their new homage to Middle Eastern cuisine (500 Mateo St). Menashe and Gergis mined their family backgrounds – Israel, Morocco, Turkey and Egypt – to devise dishes like a duck nduja hummus, oyster mushroom kabobs and a tagine with braised Wagyu beef.

Mariscos Jalisco

Aren’t feeling like a whole sit-down situation? Want the best taco in town? Jump the river to Boyle Heights and find Mariscos Jalisco (3040 E. Olympic Blvd). Just a humble food truck, it’s the source of the most celebrated fried shrimp taco in Los Angeles, maybe the world. Food critics flock here; there’s nothing else like it.

VISIT

Night Gallery

Part of the ground level for Los Angeles’ once burgeoning, now established contemporary arts scene, Davida Nemeroff’s expansive Arts District space (2276 E. 16th St) hosts riveting exhibits from some of the industry’s most exciting artists, like David Korty and Anna Rosen. While you’re in the area, stop by Hauser & Wirth’s outsize East Third Street location – on the Arts District’s most developed strip (coffee shops and boutiques galore) – which hosts more established names, like Alexander Calder.

Beverly Hills LA Map

The most famous zip code. If you can pry yourself away from the legendary pool at Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel, or want to do something with all the good energy you picked up at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, this neighbourhood is a perfect jumping-off point for some of the best shopping, recreation and sightseeing LA has to offer.


Scenes in Beverly Hills LA

VISIT

RTH

The twin shops (537 N. La Cienega Blvd) that René Holguin, the son of a bootmaker, built on this strip of La Cienega have come to embody a whole modern Western lifestyle, not just a look: There are unisex ponchos and shirting and roughshod leather laptop cases and palo santo for days. It’s not simply where you’ll find something for the person who has everything, it’s where you’ll find something for everyone.

Frederick R. Weisman Art Foundation

You have to book your tour ahead of time, but it’s well worth it to view Weisman’s private collection in an astounding 1920s villa (265 N. Carolwood Drive). It includes work by modern masters like Giacometti and Rauschenberg, as well as a trove of abstract expressionist works: de Kooning, Rothko and Frankenthaler. . . . The pop gods are here too, including Warhol and Lichtenstein. This is a museum-worthy collection, on view just for you and yours.

DO

Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine Temple

Don’t be misled by the word “temple.” Reservations are required to discover this place to chill (17190 Sunset Blvd). Waterfalls. A lake. Fountains. Flower beds. Walking paths. Aren’t you feeling better already? Founded by yogi Paramahansa Yogananda in the Pacific Palisades, a quick drive from Beverly Hills, this relaxing spot (a favourite of Elvis Presley) is on your road to wellness. “It’s a quiet oasis” to wander around or just sit and meditate says Kisha Franklin, Concierge Manager at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles.

Malibu CA Map

Gorgeous, unending beaches; the freshest food going straight into the finest cuisine; vineyards upon vineyards: Malibu is California dreaming. And for guests of
Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village, set in the Santa Monica mountains, it’s just a stone’s throw – or a car ride – away.


Scenes from Malibu, CA

EAT

Taverna Tony

“Tony will come around and fill your plate with food,” Franklin says. “It’s a true Malibu local restaurant.” The thing about Malibu is, while luxurious, it’s low-key. And this is the kind of spot (23410 Civic Center Way) that draws the residents: fresh, lively Greek food – saganaki cheese served flaming, baby octopus straight from a charcoal grill – a beautiful terrace, and loads of charm.

VISIT

Point Dume State Beach

“A lot of people will go to Paradise Cove, but Point Dume (Cliffside Drive and Birdview Avenue) is a little further out and more private, more local, and just beautiful,” Franklin says. Take in the views of Point Dume’s cliffs and bluffs, and the solitude you might enjoy even more. It offers all the stunning beauty of the California coastline, but with fewer tourists.

DRINK

Cornell Winery & Tasting Room

A highlight of Malibu is its proximity to the rolling hills of wine country. Nadine Jurchynsky, Chief Concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village, recommends Cornell Winery (29975 Mulholland Highway, Agoura Hills) and its unbelievably charming tasting room, with vintages sourced from local wineries. Another option is Malibu Family Wine, where you can look out over the 1,000-acre Saddlerock Ranch estate while you sip.

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Take us with you wherever you roam.

Beverly Wilshire hotel

A Culinary Tour of Dallas

Posted on by Alison Miller

Food and drink have long been an integral part of the experience at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas. Case in point: The Resort has employed a master sommelier – one of only 236 in the world – since 2002. At the new rustic-luxe LAW restaurant, Chef de Cuisine Johan Van Niekerk delivers a decidedly Texas touch – and Head Bartender Davis Rhea’s homegrown cocktails follow suit next door at OUTLAW Taproom.

The Resort also plays host to several food and wine events, including the prestigious TEXSOM International Wine Awards, now in its 13th year. Chefs, farmers, sommeliers, distillers, brewers and barkeeps from the Lone Star State and beyond also gathered at the Resort in February for Cochon555, a whole-hog feast focused on sustainable farming.

But no visit to Dallas is complete without sidling up to some of the spots that make this legendary Texas town sizzle. For a proper list of where to eat and drink, we asked eight Four Seasons experts to take us to the hottest spots in their home city.

Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

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ALL-DAY PATIO

“Truck Yard is perfect for relaxing with family, friends or your four-legged pal. There are always two or three food trucks parked alongside the bar’s rustic backyard. If The Hot Potato truck is there, order the Naughty Tots – tater tots stuffed with cheese and topped with crispy bacon and jalapeño ranch.” —Justin Meselsohn, LAW restaurant manager

SHOPPING À LA MODE

“Emporium Pies is a little house turned pie shop in the Bishop Arts District, a haven of locally owned shops and restaurants. Between the sweet smells and cottage vibe, you can’t help but feel cosy. I can’t pick a favourite pie. They’re all delicious!” —Rachel Curliss, guest experience coordinator

SOUTHERN COMFORT

“Whistle Britches – order the Auntie Louann, an open-faced fried chicken sandwich with pimento cheese, pickles, tomatoes and Thousand Island dressing.” —Johan Van Niekerk, Chef de Cuisine at LAW

GIRLS’ NIGHT OUT

“Don’t miss Dame’s Dinner Club on Wednesday nights at The Standard Pour, a cocktail bar in Uptown. Live music and a free three-course meal!” —Curliss

POST-WORKOUT MEAL

“The Crown Jewel Smoothie from The Gem is made with bananas, cashew milk, coconut manna, spinach, blueberries, dates, cacao, cinnamon and maca. Be sure to grab a pack of Alyssa’s Cookies while you’re there – they’re a sweet, healthy snack.” —Erin Epperson, personal trainer and nutrition specialist

MUSEUM DISTRICT BRUNCH

“Mercat Bistro is an authentic slice of France in downtown Dallas. The best quiche Lorraine I’ve ever had.” —Curliss

UNEXPECTED BARBECUE

“Get the Hot Mess from Pecan Lodge in Deep Ellum – a baked sweet potato topped with butter, cheese, barbacoa, chipotle sour cream, bacon and green onions.” —Curliss

BREAKFAST

“Ellen’s, hands down. The Pancake Pot Pie is a must-have – hash browns, pancakes, crumbled sausage, bacon – just layers upon layers of all things breakfast. I went out on a limb the first time I had it and now it’s the only thing I order.” —Courtney Murlin, Concierge

WINE & CHEESE

“Veritas Wine Room. It’s low-lit and romantic, and the staff is very knowledgeable on all the cheeses and meats. You can pick your own or choose one of their curated plates.” —Murlin

LUNCH WITH KIDS

“Klyde Warren Park, right around the corner from the Perot Museum of Nature and Science, has a playground, a splash pad and food trucks. Ruthie’s, the grilled cheese truck, is well worth the wait.” —Murlin

MUST-EAT APPETIZER

“Lobster-scallion ‘shooters’ at Abacus. Created by local celebrity Chef Kent Rathbun, they’re a wonderful starter but can also be treated as a meal if you order enough of them.” —Kevin Alderman, Chief Concierge and Les Clefs d’Or member

OFF-MENU DISH

“The bruschetta platter and the Nutella Vanilla Mela Bela dessert pizza at Cane Rosso are amazing, but you’ll have to ask for them – they’re not on the menu.” —Alderman

DINER FARE

“Maple Leaf Diner – order the classic poutine.” —Van Niekerk

UPSCALE MEXICAN

“Mesero. If the weather is nice, ask for a seat by the windows. They’re often open, which allows for a nice breeze and great people watching on Henderson Avenue. Order the Queso Mesero and a Size 2 margarita to start. Tip: Ask them to make it spicy with a little Habanero syrup or muddled jalapeño. For dinner, you can’t go wrong with the Del Corazon Salad followed by the Tacos Camaron or The Chairman – braised pork with cremini mushrooms, roasted peppers and onions and jalapeño ranch.” —Katy Taylor, Director of Event Sales

NEIGHBORHOOD TEX-MEX

“Mi Camino. Ask for a prime seat on the patio and order a spicy skinny margarita and their fabulous Queso Blanco with roasted corn and poblanos. You also can’t go wrong with the Yucatan chicken salad with fresh mango and chopped rotisserie chicken or the Estilo M.C.R. Tacos – grilled beef or chicken topped with caramelized onions, blue cheese and shredded cabbage. They have live music on Friday and Saturday nights, and you can sip a cocktail while watching the sun set over Bachman Lake.” —Taylor

TASTE OF OLD DALLAS

“Visit the original Twisted Root Burger Co. in Deep Ellum – everybody should experience Deep Ellum. James Boso, who opened it back in 2006, is a former Four Seasons Resort Dallas employee and also runs Truck Yard.” —James Tidwell, Master Sommelier

STRESS-FREE DATE NIGHT

“Tei-An is a great pre-theatre date night spot. It’s a soba house, but it also has some of the best sushi in town. Chef Teiichi Sakurai has earned multiple James Beard Award nominations. It’s a beautiful restaurant in that it’s not overly adorned. It’s a very calming, Japanese atmosphere.” —Tidwell

SEE AND BE SEEN

“Chef Bruno Davaillon, former executive chef of the iconic Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas, recently opened Bullion, which deserves recognition for elevating the game in Dallas. It has a high-end Parisian bistro feel, but the food is approachable.” —Tidwell

BYOB

“Hello Dumpling and 20 Feet, a seafood joint, are two doors down from each other in East Dallas, and both are BYOB. A mile down the road, Le Caveau stocks a beautiful array of well-selected wines, or you can hit Goodfriend Package right across the street.” —Tidwell

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

What food scene will you explore next?

Aerial view of golf course

Our Guide to the Best of Lower Manhattan

Posted on by John Ortved

While incredible landmarks like the Empire State Building and Central Park reside above 14th street, downtown New York City is it. From the stunning architecture of the Oculus, to the world-class galleries in Chelsea, to the unmatched views of Lady Liberty, Lower Manhattan is a bustling revelation of sights, fine dining, cosy cafés, art and nightlife. When you step out of Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown, these are just a few of the city’s coolest spots waiting for you, some just a short stroll away.

Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown

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The Oculus

The Oculus

“It is necessary that public space prevail,” world-famous architect Santiago Calatrava told The New York Times as his Oculus, the luminous transportation hub at the World Trade Center, was set to open. Today, it is filled with singular shopping experiences, and yet Calatrava’s vision for returning the blighted site of tragedy to the people of New York has not been sullied. The space isn’t bad for your Instagram, either.

Statue of Liberty

The best way to see the colossal statue is by sea, and downtowners have no shortage of options for doing so. We recommend the complimentary classic: the Staten Island Ferry. Or pay a $7 fare and take the Liberty Landing Ferry from the World Financial Center on the west side – it gets you closer to the copper giant, but you can’t imbibe on board.

Le District

The brand-new Brookfield Place – known for its array of upscale shops, like Louis Vuitton and Hermès – isn’t just a shopping destination; there’s great food here too. At lunchtime, you’ll find editors from magazines like Vanity Fair, Vogue and Bon Appétit (they work across the street in the Freedom Tower) prowling les halles of Le District, a distinctly French market experience. There are fluffy, flaky croissants at the patisserie, heart- and belly-warming boeuf bourguignon at the lunch counter, crêpes and salads, and the best mustard selection this side of the Seine.


Two Bridges, Lower Manhattan

Dimes

While this trendy little spot offers healthy edibles, like a black bean power bowl with pumpkin seeds and grilled salmon with turmeric yogurt, it’s just as much about the view. The restaurant – Dimes also has a deli and a grocery market just across the street – is a touchstone for the beyond-cool crowd that works, lives and plays here. All the fashion inspiration you’ll ever need is sitting at the next table or skateboarding by.

2 Bridges Music and Arts

Part gallery, part music shop, part bookstore, this singularly funky collection can be found upstairs in a nondescript, predominantly Chinese mall on East Broadway. Don’t be afraid to ask questions: The owners have filled the shop with art books and records that appeal to them personally. Last time we visited, they were displaying a book of secretly taken photographs in North Korea and playing the latest LP from Playboi Carti. No matter where you’re coming from, this shop is a must.


Wall Street sign

CUT

What surprises many diners about Wolfgang Puck’s CUT, the star chef’s sophisticated steakhouse that joined Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown earlier this year, is how many patrons stop in besides Hotel guests. It’s become a local hotspot. For Puck, part of the attraction was being able to source his food locally, whether beets from nearby farms or scallops from Nantucket.

When it comes to steak, Puck goes with the 8-ounce New York American Wagyu Striploin. “You have the best of both worlds,” he says, “the richness of the Wagyu beef and the flavour of the American Black Angus.” Diners can do more than look into the open kitchen, where their steaks and fish are grilled over open fire; they’re welcome to venture in and witness the food preparation. “It’s really exciting, and the chefs love it,” he says.

The Mailroom

Don’t let the name fool you – there’s nothing quotidian happening at this subterranean lounge. Instead, you can party like The Wolf of Wall Street (within reason), with mixologist-made cocktails, vintage pinball, plenty of room to dance and even a bocce-ball court. Since it opened in the fall of 2017, the room has played host to countless New York Fashion Week events, as well as performances by Patti Smith and James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem. Consider it the perfect place to continue the fun after dinner.

Via Carota

Chefs and partners Jody Williams (Buvette) and Rita Sodi (I Sodi) joined forces to produce Via Carota, a loving testament to rustic Italian cooking and market-fresh fare. While reservations are not an option, the temptations that emerge into the woodsy, hopping dining room are worth every minute of the wait. A fall menu might see grilled lemony artichokes, whole bean soup and a bone-in pork chop, while the summer could cast a spotlight on pan-fried peaches and a heavenly Dover sole. Every meal here is an event, even if it’s just a bite and a glass of Super Tuscan while window-shopping.

Walk This Way

When it comes to footwear, the West Village refuses to disappoint. Ladies should seek out Pierre Hardy; the venerable and always chic French designer has a small shop on Jane Street filled with playful pumps and killer boots. Meanwhile, men can meander over to Leffot, a posh, airy space on Christopher Street where classics from Alden and Saint Crispin’s are displayed like museum exhibits, but with touching encouraged.

Not Quite Coffeehouses

A well-kept local secret, Té Company is where some of the city’s most prominent foodies flock. With nods to traditional Hong Kong tea services, it’s a go-to for matcha lovers, as well as fans of immaculately well-made and -presented small bites. Around the corner on Greenwich Avenue you’ll find Mah Ze Dahr Bakery, a minimalist retreat whose pastries are spoken of in nearly religious terms.


The High Line

Cheim and Read

Up there with the biggest names in the Chelsea Gallery scene, like Gagosian and David Zwirner, Cheim and Read boasts a roster of American and international artists – and a single location – that all but guarantees an impressive viewing experience. Take in contemporary art stars like Jenny Holzer and Jack Pierson, as well as modern masters like Diane Arbus, Robert Mapplethorpe and Alice Neel.

Barneys Downtown

Some called it overdue, others a homecoming, but in 2016, Barneys, New York’s ultimate fashion destination, reopened a location on Seventh Avenue near 17th Street where the legendary department store first opened in 1923. More important than when was how, as Barneys revealed a rejuvenated, optimistic, dare we say “cool” edit at the new/old location, with choices from the likes of Vetements.


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Weekend Escape: A Local’s Guide to Boston

Posted on by Stephanie Jones

Jordan Thomas recently relocated to Boston to join Four Seasons Hotel Boston as bar manager at The Bristol, the Hotel’s buzzy restaurant overlooking the 24-acre Public Garden. When he’s not whipping up innovative cocktails for guests – his favourite, the Midnight Marauder, is a spin on a manhattan that’s named for the Tribe Called Quest album – he’s exploring the city’s burgeoning food and drink scene. Here, Thomas shares his ideal Boston weekend, from secret spots for just-caught seafood to the best artisanal doughnuts in the city.


Boston Seaport

Row 34 at the Boston Seaport

Photography by Morgan Yeager

Friday afternoon: Late lunch at the Seaport

“When I’m not behind the bar at The Bristol, I’ll take advantage of the afternoon with a trip to the Seaport for a late lunch at Row 34,” Thomas says. “They have a great selection of oysters, crudo and ceviche – not to mention the best french fries in Boston.” The restaurant also maintains an excellent Old World wine list.

Bartender at Trillium Brewery

Trillium Brewing Company

Photography courtesy of Trillium Brewing Company

Dining room at Yvonne's

Yvonne’s

Photography by Eric Levin

Friday Night: Local brews are just the beginning

Next up: Trillium Brewing Company, where Thomas often picks up growlers or a few cans of the IPA. “Before a night out, I like to host a few friends for drinks,” he says. “We’ll taste some of the Trillium beers in addition to whatever new cocktail recipes I’m working on. Then, the group heads to Yvonne’s for dinner, “a consistently fun and eclectic restaurant with a cosy, upbeat vibe” – a restaurant so beloved, reservations are a must. “It’s difficult to go wrong with anything from their cocktail list, and when you’re dining with friends the Social Plates section of the menu presents an opportunity for everyone to share. I would recommend the Bavette Steak Mirabeau or the Grilled Spanish Octopus.”


Pavement Coffeehouse interior

Pavement Coffeehouse

Photography courtesy of Pavement Coffeehouse

Saturday morning: What’s for breakfast?

Thomas kick-starts the day with pour-over coffee at Pavement Coffeehouse on Boylston Street, near legendary Fenway Park. “I’ll pick up a breakfast sandwich there, like the Tequila Sunrise with bacon, egg, diablo cream cheese and pico de gallo,” he says. But if you’re craving a sugar rush, Thomas says, Blackbird Doughnuts is a must. “Fun fact: Blackbird Doughnuts is the only artisanal doughnut shop in Boston that bakes on site, and they’re unreal,” he says. With flavours like sea salted toffee and pumpkin Boston cream on offer, you’ll face some tough choices.

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

Photography courtesy of Alamy

Bostonian Barber Shop

Bostonian Barber Shop

Photography by Zac Wolf

Eventide interior

Eventide

Photography by Zack Bowen

Saturday afternoon: Going old-school

“My barbershop, Bostonian Barber Shop, happens to be right around the corner, so it’s easy to pop in on a weekend if I need a trim,” Thomas says of the barber rated one of Boston’s best. “They’re an old-school type of shop – walk-ins only. The owner is a great guy who was inspired to go into the business by his grandfather.”

His next stop is the 1903 Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, where the permanent collection includes more than 15,000 pieces of art and such bold-faced names as Michelangelo, Botticelli, Manet and Degas. “I could easily spend half the day exploring the mesmerizing collections, marvelling at the mystery of the largest art theft in the world, or just sitting in the courtyard and walking through the gardens,” Thomas says. Afterwards, nab a late lunch at the newly opened Eventide. Thomas’ order: a brown butter lobster roll and a New England craft beer.


Hojoko

Hojoko

Photography courtesy of Hojoko

Saturday night: Tiki time at a Japanese tavern

As dusk falls over the city, Thomas heads to dinner with friends at Hojoko. “It’s a Japanese tavern offering solid food and well-crafted tiki cocktails, including a life-changing frozen piña colada,” he says. Thomas’ picks from the dinner menu: seared big-eye tuna burgers and bacon-wrapped hot dogs with bonito flakes.

South End Buttery

The South End Buttery

Photography by Carl Tremblay

Flour Bakery & Cafe

Flour Bakery & Cafe

Photography by Kristin Teig

Sault New England

Sault New England

Photography courtesy of Sault New England

Sunday morning: Fresh food, fresh air

Thomas starts his day in the South End for a quick breakfast at either the South End Buttery (“great breakfast sandwiches!”) or Joanne Chang’s Flour Bakery & Cafe – or, occasionally, both. Then it’s off to peruse the wares at Sault New England. “I love the selection of men’s clothing, but they also have great vintage goods and bar accessories,” Thomas says. “Everything they carry really embodies that iconic New England feel.”

Arnold Arboretum

The Arnold Arboretum at Harvard University

Photography courtesy of Arnold Arboretum

Formaggio Kitchen

Formaggio Kitchen

Photography by Julie Cappellano

Sunday afternoon: Picnic in the arboretum

For an afternoon well spent, he picks up a sandwich to go from Formaggio Kitchen on Shawmut Avenue, and then heads straight to the 281-acre Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University. “The old paperbark maple trees as well as all the Asian flora make me feel like I’m walking through a scene of the movie Dreams, directed by Akira Kurosawa,” Thomas says. “After that I’ll walk up to the top of Peters Hill, which is a great place to sit down, unpack my lunch and take in the Boston skyline.”


Tres Gatos

Tres Gatos

Photography by Delta Design

Sunday night: With a side of vinyl

For Thomas, there’s no better way to wrap up the ideal weekend than with cocktails, or dinner, at Tres Gatos. “They have a great selection of mescal and a constantly changing small plates menu; you can’t go wrong with whatever preparation of chicken liver mousse they’re offering,” he says. “Insider tip: There’s a record shop in the back of the restaurant where you can flip through the classics on offer and consider adding to your collection.”

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A Michelin-Starred Chef Stirs Up Soupe à l’Oignon

Posted on by Rooksana Hossenally

I’m at Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, following my guide through the sumptuous gallery lined with regal Flemish tapestries. As I watch guests leisurely enjoy a late breakfast, suddenly he taps a hidden button on the floor, and we slip behind the wall into the labyrinthine kitchens of Le Cinq. The Hotel’s fine dining restaurant has just been awarded three Michelin stars for the second consecutive year, while the Mediterranean menu at Le George and the Hotel’s newest dining addition, L’Orangerie, each recieved their first Michelin star this year.

For me, to succeed in making a humble local product luxurious is the role of haute cuisine today. – Chef Christian Le Squer

We navigate around hot plates, sizzling pans and trays of freshly baked croissants to find Le Cinq’s Executive Chef Christian Le Squer in his whites, supervising the meticulous preparation of one of his signature dishes, a soupe à l’oignon. The classic French soup he serves, like many of the Hotel’s deft details, is quintessentially French, yet unique.

Originally from Brittany, Le Squer maintains a strong connection to slow-life values – he still cycles to work most mornings – and sustainability is important to him. To ensure the quality of the dishes, Le Squer and his team constantly seek out the best produce.

Chef Le Squer cooks in the kitchen at the Four Seasons Paris

Chef Le Squer is meticulous while overseeing dishes in his kitchen at Four Seasons George V in Paris.

Photography courtesy Eddy Brière

Chef Le Squer rides his bike in Paris

A believer in slow-life values, Chef Le Squer begins his workday by riding his bike to Four Seasons Hotel George V. He often rides his bike to the local markets, too, to select fresh, local produce for his recipes.

Photography courtesy Morel

Chef Le Squer from the Four Seasons Paris shops in a market

The Ile de France region is rich with quality produce, which is why Chef Le Squer shops at local markets whenever possible.

Photography courtesy Morel

“We usually order from the best farmers, usually from people who specialize in one product,” he says. “For instance, for the onion soup, the onions come from one place in summer, and at this time of year they come from another, from the Cévennes [in south-central France], because they have a certain sweetness to them that I like.”

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

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Earning Michelin stardom

For more than 10 years, Le Squer was at Pavillon Ledoyen, another Parisian institution, where his cuisine earned him three Michelin stars. When he arrived at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, in 2014, the chef’s challenge was to retrieve a third Michelin star for Le Cinq. By February 2017, he’d succeeded in doing so twice. And it’s easy to see why.

I’m just like a perfumer. Inside my head it’s like a library of scents, but for flavours. I remember flavours and I know which ones I’d like to put together. – Chef Christian Le Squer

The extravagant, colonnaded Louis XV and Louis XVI surroundings certainly help, as does the stellar service, but the jewel in the crown is Le Squer’s cuisine, which plays on refined simplicity and a dedication to marrying unusual flavours.

“What drives me is my insatiable passion for movement, for evolution, for finding surprising new combinations,” he says. He vividly recalls one such surprise, a match made between oysters and foie gras that he tasted in Japan: “The iodic taste of the oyster cut through the bold fatty taste of the foie gras. It was wonderful.”

A modern twist on a classic


Chef Le Squer's onion soup

This French onion soup, a classic reinvented by Chef Le Squer, is served on a plate opposed to in a bowl. It’s one of the signature items at the three-Michelin-star Le Cinq restaurant.

Photography courtesy Amara Becirovski

While Le Squer’s creative cuisine can be adventurous and doused in plenty of Breton spirit – he particularly likes seafood and fish – his signature dish remains the modest onion soup. “I wanted to reintroduce this old traditional bistro dish,” says the chef of soupe à l’oignon. “However, we’ve completely redesigned it, like Yves Saint Laurent, who redefined how women dressed with his trouser suit. For instance, we serve it on a plate as opposed to in a bowl.”

When the dish is placed before me, I hesitate to spoil the presentation – small, bulbous sweet onions arranged like flower petals on a fine Parmesan galette, dotted with confit onion beads and finished with a dash of truffle and thyme coulis. But I do, and every mouthful is a burst of flavour with all the gourmand comfort of a home-cooked soup.

“It’s precisely that emotion that flavours create that I love. To share that emotion with people is incredible,” Le Squer beams. “You know, it’s important to remember that eating doesn’t belong just to the luxury world. Wherever you cook, the most important thing is always to bring flavour – and therefore emotion.”

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Taste this soupe à l’oignon for yourself.

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