The Insider’s Guide to Dubai:
6 People You Need to Meet


Dubai is a study in contrast – a place where winding souks exist alongside modern high-rise buildings, glamorous beach resorts and dramatic desert landscapes share real estate and a dazzling city centre abuts lively residential neighbourhoods. The largest city in the United Arab Emirates, often described as a bridge between East and West, is also a mosaic of global cultures.

The people who live and work in Dubai are as compelling as the metropolis itself. From a Brazilian belly dancer to a falconer from South Africa, Four Seasons can introduce you to some of the most intriguing individuals – people who will make an extraordinary visit truly unforgettable.

The Bartender Dubai

THE MIXOLOGIST

Born in Milan, with Sicilian roots, Mariano Ricciari, the assistant bar manager and lead bartender of MINA Brasserie, still starts his day with a proper Italian espresso. Friends joke that he’s a workaholic. Even though he’s a manager, he still likes to jump behind the bar for fun.

Here, you see things that you don’t find anywhere else.

“I love to create a sense of hospitality,” he says. “The interaction with different guests is what I like the most about my job. I get to listen to new stories and adventures. Some people share things that they might not even tell their wife or husband.”

Ricciari moved to Dubai three years ago and describes the city as a bubble in the world. “Here, you see things that you don’t find anywhere else, and you find a better way to recreate something that you’ve seen somewhere else,” he says. He’s constantly pushing his team to experiment and get creative with the cocktail program. “At the end of the night I like to sit down and share my feedback with the team and congratulate them for a job well done,” he says. “And of course, I pour myself a drink.”

A belly dancer greets guests at Four Seasons Hotel Dubai

THE BELLY DANCER

Upon arrival at Four Seasons Dubai Jumeirah Beach, the unmistakable sounds of Arabic music wafts through the air and a pair of belly dancers appear, elegantly bending their bodies to the rhythm. It’s an ideal welcome.

[Belly dancing] brings you happiness when you watch it.

One of the dancers is Brazil-born Graciela Pischner, who always dreamed of performing in the Middle East and made her way to Dubai after stops in Lebanon, Yemen, Bahrain and Tunis. “I like how people in Dubai appreciate and respect my work,” she says. “Also, it’s a safe place, and the perfect location for someone who wants to travel around the world.”

Belly dancing is a respected Arabic art form, with some differences according to location. In Dubai, the dancers perform in high heels and take big steps. “It brings you happiness when you watch it,” Pischner says.

The Restaurant Manager Dubai

THE RESTAURANT MANAGER

As the Manager of Suq Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, Lawrence Raj believes it’s his role to make guests feel like part of the family. “It’s as important to start the day right as it is to end,” he says, “so beginning with breakfast, I ensure every guest receives astounding service.”

At Suq every day is always full of new discoveries.

The cuisine at Suq, a mix of flavours from the Middle East, Asia and the West, reflects the diversity of the city. Raj, who was born in Kanyakumari in South India, moved to Dubai 15 years ago, drawn to the city’s blend of ancient traditions with modernity. “Dubai reminds travellers of its heritage through its food, fabrics, dialects and desert tents,” he says. “The city is so alive, and at Suq every day is always full of new discoveries, new friends and personal growth.”

A falcon trainer does a demonstration near Dubai.

THE FALCONER

The art of falconry goes back more than 2,000 years. Although most people in modern-day Dubai don’t rely on falcons to hunt prey and find water in the desert, the falcon remains an important symbol in Arabic culture. It’s the national bird of the United Arab Emirates.

South Africa–born Liander Botes is the operations manager at Wild Flight Dubaiwhich introduces travellers to falconry and educates them about birds of prey. “This is not a pet – this is a dangerous animal,” Botes tells visitors, noting that when going for the kill, the bird can reach speeds of up to 300 kph (200 mph). “It is a hunting tool and can cause the same damage as a rifle.”

The falcon can reach speeds of up to 300 kph (200 mph).

The falcon can travel long distances, but, as Botes shows guests, it can also return to its owner, thanks to a natural form of GPS. Wild Flight Dubai can arrange for a falcon to perch on a well-protected arm or display a bird’s exercise and free flight at sunset. “The interesting thing about my job is that every day is different,” says Botes, who developed a love of animals while growing up on a farm in South Africa. “Every day something new happens.”

The Camel Trainer Dubai

THE CAMEL TRAINER 

Mohammed Ali doesn’t speak a word of English, but with simple motions he shows guests how to mount his camels carefully and ride them over sand dunes.

He assures nervous first-timers through his translator that camels are actually quite calm as long as you don’t create a noise that disturbs them. An expert trainer who has worked alongside camels since childhood, Ali was born in Pakistan and now lives with the Bedouins in the desert. He takes great pleasure in helping visitors live out their Lawrence of Arabia fantasies while interacting with his well-behaved animals.

A food expert teaches Four Seasons' guests about local Dubai flavors.

THE FOOD EXPERT

Dubai’s dining scene isn’t defined just by its plentiful celebrity-chef restaurants. Arva Ahmed, a respected food blogger and the founder of Frying Pan Adventuresprovides an authentic taste of local flavours on her culinary tours of Old Dubai.

Dubai is a great preserver of food culture from around the region.

Ahmed, born in India, moved to the United States for college, followed by a high-powered job as a management consultant in Manhattan. But her heart was always in Dubai. Eventually, she returned to pursue her true passion: food. With her quick wit and encyclopedic knowledge of regional cuisine, it’s no wonder Andrew Zimmern featured Ahmed on his show Bizarre Foods.

An afternoon with Ahmed in the Deira neighbourhood emphasizes Dubai’s multiculti cuisine. Tastings might include Lebanese pizza, freshly made Egyptian falafel, and a sweet Arabic dessert called knafeh that’s made with noodles and stringy cheese. She clearly relishes the variety: “Dubai is a great preserver of food culture from around the region, the Middle East and beyond to North Africa and the Indian subcontinent.”

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10 Food Festivals Worth Travelling to Find

Of course you always seek out a seat at the best bars and restaurants when you travel. But for a deeper dive into the culinary scene of your chosen destination, align your trip with a food festival. From a multi-stage music fest showcasing the best of a city’s eats to gatherings focused on a particular regional dish, the stops on our smorgasbord tour abound with local cuisine and culture.


Palm Beach Food and Wine Festival

The Palm Beach Food and Wine Festival attracts culinary talent from around the globe.

Palm Beach Food and Wine Festival

As if Florida isn’t seductive enough in winter, the Palm Beach Food and Wine Festival adds yet another excuse to head South in December. This lauded culinary event attracts powerhouse chefs like Daniel Boulud, Mike Lata and the Sunshine State’s own Michelle Bernstein to a number of local venues, including festival home base
Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach. Beyond the capstone Grand Tasting, buoyed by book signings and the sounds of a DJ, there are multi-course wine-paired dinners revolving around themes such as sustainable seafood and modern Southern cuisine.

Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach

Big Apple BBQ

Every June for the past 16 years, 16 top pitmasters from California to New York have taken over Madison Square Park for a two-day-long backyard barbecue right in the middle of Manhattan. Meat and smoke are the main ingredients for the Big Apple BBQ, which will be relocating elsewhere on the island in 2019 (no word yet). The venue may be changing, but greats such as Sam Jones, Rodney Scott and John Stage will no doubt still be prodding the fire. Move from tent to tent sampling Eastern Carolina pulled pork sandwiches, St. Louis–style ribs, Texas brisket and jalapeño-tinged sausage. Serious foodies who want to talk shop with their BBQ heroes know to swing by Thursday night when the mouthwatering aroma of hot coals and slow-roasting swine starts to fill the air. Can’t muster the motivation to move after the feast? Both
Four Seasons Hotel New York and Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown are just a cab ride away.

Four Seasons Hotel New York

Tokyo Ramen Show

For 11 days in October/early November, the many flavours and styles of Japan’s most buzzworthy noodle soup come together at the Tokyo Ramen Show in Komazawa Olympic Park. The steaming comfort food comes not just from Tokyo purveyors, but from ramen makers in Hokkaido, Kagoshima and everywhere in between. Make Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi your home base, and stay awhile: 18 vendors ladle soup for the first six days and an entirely new cast takes over for the final five. Ramen is known for its wildly varied flavours and ingredients, which differ from city to city, town to town. You can taste for yourself a kaleidoscope of regional variations like miso-based broth with horsehair crab and dashi with dried bonito flakes and sea kelp. And don’t miss the mash-ups – ramen shops collaborating with one another to create completely new dishes only available here.

Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo

 

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Outside Lands

Gone are the days of sad and soggy music festival fare. Melon salad, Malaysian lamb curry, samosas and stir-fried veggie glass noodles are among the menu choices when 70 or so of San Francisco’s best restaurants set up al fresco kitchens at the Outside Lands music festival in August. About a dozen food trucks are on hand, as well as, in true California fashion, a Cypress Grove pop-up slinging artisan cheese plates. Oh, and there’s music too: If you like your meals paired with the stylings of Florence & The Machine, The Weekend, Beck and Bon Iver, this fest’s for you. Rest and recover at the centrally located Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco.

Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco

 

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Chef Fest, Hawaii

If cosying up to an intimate group of all-star chefs in one of the most exquisite natural settings in North America is your idea of a memorable holiday, make your way to
Four Seasons Resort Hualalai in October for Chef Fest. Interactive cooking classes with such experts as Hugh Acheson, Brooke Williamson and Andy Ricker at the Resort’s outdoor kitchen are the main draw, but beach cookouts, al fresco tastings with local farmers and pre-brunch paddleboarding excursions further enhance the tropical environs. Treat yourself to the cocktail showcase at the Resort’s Palm Grove Pool and toast to the most tasteful of beach getaways.

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

 

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Salon du Chocolat, Paris

Held each fall at the Porte de Versailles expo centre about 15 minutes from
Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, Salon du Chocolat is one of several such shows around the world – but this one’s in Paris, a city famous for its sophisticated confections. The truffles and ganache here are enough to exhilarate any chocophile, but the centrepiece is the Salon’s unusual fashion show: Designers and chocolatiers collaborate on haute-couture outfits embellished with or delicately spun from chocolate.

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Prague Food Festival

Chances are a visit to Prague will lead to its majestic castle, a ninth-century marvel that is home to St Vitus Cathedral and the Renaissance-era Royal Garden. Here, just across the Vltava River from Four Seasons Hotel Prague, the Prague Food Festival unfolds each May. Don’t pass up a chance to consume the best dishes from Czech chefs – steak tartare and lamb ragout with bread dumplings, or perhaps sushi or empanadas – with the added zest of a fairy-tale dining spot.

Four Seasons Hotel Prague


Taste of Sydney

Taste of Sydney pairs delicious bites with an al fresco setting.

Taste of Sydney

For four days in early March the all-encompassing Taste of Sydney festival takes over Sydney’s verdant Centennial Parklands, minutes from Four Seasons Hotel Sydney. Wine tastings and demos in butchery and baking add an interactive element, and an artisan marketplace of locally made ingredients and wares means you can savour the festival long after it’s over. More than 60 dishes from notable Sydney chefs like Mark Best and Nelly Robinson are the main attraction. Sample barbecued octopus, shrimp toast okonomiyaki and lamb skewers, then retreat to a glamping tent with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills.

Four Seasons Hotel Sydney


Desserts at Dubai Food Festival

A chef prepares miniature desserts at the Dubai Food Festival.

Dubai Food Festival

The Dubai Food Festival in February and March reflects the city’s rich diversity, attracting chefs like Jun Tanaka, Nikita Gandhi and Tim Read. Throughout the celebration, at various locations near Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre, local restaurants roll out limited-edition menus sure to evoke extreme Instagram envy. Sit down in one of their dramatic dining rooms, or head to a food truck or al fresco pop-up at the festival’s Etisalat Beach Canteen. Learn a little something at a chef master class, tour an urban farm and nosh at a street food bazaar – all part of this robust 17-day event.

Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach

 

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Ubud Food Festival

From tofu to turmeric, the Ubud Food Festival – sister event to the Ubud Writers & Readers and Bali Emerging Voices festivals – puts Indonesia’s vast culinary landscape front and centre each April. Start by reading the story of the woman who adopted Bali as her home and launched this annual festival, located minutes from Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan. Then master macarons with Bali’s Prince of Pastry, Rafi Papazian; make the healing herbal drink jamu; cook with clay pots and wood-fired stoves in a traditional paon (Balinese kitchen); and breathe deeply at a fiery sambal cook-off. Beyond the kitchen, consider the intro course on Indonesian language and culture, led by an instructor from the Cinta Bahasa Indonesian Language School.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

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Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

27 New Ways to Eat (and Drink) Local


Natives of Buenos Aires will tell you that you haven’t fully experienced Argentina until you’ve enjoyed an authentic asado-style meal – a revered weekend dining ritual where families and friends grill meats, tables are filled with salads and appetizers, and local red wines flow freely. You haven’t tasted Indonesia, locals say, until you’ve sampled babi guling, aka roast suckling pig, from the beach in Bali. And in Florence, it’s an unwritten rule that la passeggiata (a traditional evening stroll) is incomplete without a scoop of creamy gelato.

The fastest and most enjoyable way for travellers to immerse themselves in the culture of any corner of the world is to dive into the culinary scene – order traditional dishes, explore food markets and local farms, and speak to chefs and home cooks about their favourite recipes.

Taste of Place, a new series of fine dining experiences from Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, is designed so guests can do exactly that. Its goal is to bring travellers and locals who have an appetite for exploration together with the flavours and cultures of places like Cairo, Koh Samui and Lanai.

During these epicurean adventures, you’ll visit markets and farms to sample and gather fresh ingredients commonly used in local cuisine. Many experiences include cooking classes alongside expert chefs, where you’ll learn how the traditions and customs of a region are reflected in the preparation and seasoning of its food. And each Taste of Place offering includes one or more chef-prepared meals, served in an unforgettable setting.

Scroll through the gallery above to get a taste of specific food tourism offerings around the globe.

Taste of Place joins an already extensive portfolio of Four Seasons culinary innovations, including the recently launched “Culinary Discoveries” itinerary on board the Four Seasons Private Jet. This new itinerary, developed in partnership with René Redzepi and the Noma team, is a once-in-a-lifetime cross-continental culinary journey through the finest kitchens, freshest markets and most exquisite dining experiences in the world. Learn more about how you can see Europe and Asia through the eyes of a Michelin-starred chef here.

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Bali at Jimbaran Bay

Night Swimming: 9 Pools You Should Only Swim at Sundown


Though swimming under the sun is a cool respite during the day, some pools look their best after dark. From an infinity pool overlooking the grassy plains of the Serengeti to a sky-high jewel in Dubai, these eight pools at Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts are open through sunset or later, and illuminate new ways to enjoy night swimming.

Maui: A pool for two

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Dotted with candles and elevated above Wailea Beach, the Serenity Pool at Four Seasons Resort Maui is the perfect setting for night swimming beneath the stars. The poolside is available for private use from dusk to dawn for a chef-prepared multi-course dinner, a private dip with your choice of underwater music, and a couple’s massage in a luxury cabana. Coupled with astonishing panoramic views of neighbouring islands and the West Maui Mountains, this is island life at its very best.

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

Dubai: Aquatic glow


Shimmering like a blue jewel at night, the above-ground, glass-walled pool at Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre looks like an immense aquarium. Open for swimming until 10:00 pm, the rooftop pool provides an exciting underwater view of the surrounding sites. After a refreshing swim, slip into the nearby heated whirlpool.

Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre

St. Louis: Rooftop gazing


Private cabanas by pool

The rooftop pool at Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis offers rare panoramic views of the city skyline.

Glowing with soft blue and pink lights, the outdoor pool at Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, open for swimming until 8:00 pm, is one of the few rooftop pools in St. Louis. From this poolside perch, enjoy exclusive views of the illuminated downtown skyline – including the Gateway Arch, Martin Luther King Bridge and the Mississippi River – while sipping cocktails from Cielo Bar. Once the sun sets, the pool’s underwater music changes to an upbeat, lounge-style soundtrack to match the city nightlife scene below.

Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis

Maldives: Twin sunsets


An infinity pool at sunset

The freshwater swimming pool at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa is a romantic setting for an evening swim amidst the hues of the sunset.

For an awe-inspiring view of not one but two sunsets, the infinity edge pool at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa is the perfect place. Seeming to merge with the horizon, the outdoor pool, open until 7:00 pm, reflects the sun’s warm orange and pink hues, creating a second sunset that matches the sky. It’s a most unusual effect for an evening swim.

Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa


A couple enjoys the infinity pool at Four Seasons Maldives Private Island at Voavah.

Celebrate with friends and loved ones by enjoying a private moonlit pool party at Maldives Private Island at Voavah, Baa Atoll.

Just a few miles away, step into your own private oasis: the sunset pool at Maldives Private Island at Voavah, Baa Atoll. Accessible only to you and your guests, the pool lies just outside the Two-Bedroom Water Villa and appears on The Telegraph‘s list of incredible infinity pools around the world. Make it your vantage point as it blends seamlessly with the night and a blanket of stars.

Maldives Private Island Voavah at Baa Atoll

Hampshire: Swim under the stars


Open late for adults only, the heated outdoor vitality pool at Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire offers massage features and is surrounded by the quiet countryside – making it a sweet retreat after a day of exploring on horseback, playing tennis or shopping the charming streets of the village. After a soak, swim into the connected indoor infinity pool and gaze at the stars shining through its glass ceiling.

Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire

Serengeti: Nocturnal watering hole


A beach at dusk

Enjoy an awe-inspiring safari sunset while soaking in the free-form pool at Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti.

Open through sunset, the free-form infinity pool at Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is an idyllic setting for watching the sun descend and the Serengeti transform. By day, the pool overlooks the elephants and water buffalo that frequently stop for a drink at the neighbouring watering hole. But as the day comes to a close, guests will enjoy picturesque views of a Safari sunset and the chance to overhear the nocturnal wildlife, like a lioness or hyena.

Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti, Tanzania

Abu Dhabi: Seaside poolside

Open until midnight, the outdoor pool at Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi is the perfect setting for a refreshing nighttime dip out in the open air. After sundown, unwind with dinner, drinks and DJ music on the third-floor rooftop pool deck. Nearby Eclipse, Terrace Lounge, an open-air restaurant and bar, is ideal for a post-swimming cocktail or poolside indulgence in seafood.

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Sun by building in India

Trending Now: Modern Salons from London to Dubai


Exchanging ideas at Salon London

A modern iteration of the traditional literary salon, Salon London organises monthly gatherings showcasing experts in the worlds of science, the arts and psychology.

In the fall of 2003, California teacher Toby Brothers moved to Paris for her husband’s job. For her, the romance of the move, the thoughts of idling away days along the Seine, were soon overshadowed by the realities of integrating herself into a new culture, learning a new language and settling into a new city. One evening, a chance encounter at a cocktail party led to an in-depth discussion of her passion for teaching and a favourite book—Beloved, by Toni Morrison—prompting a new idea. What do you do, as a literature teacher, to embrace your new environment in one of the world’s most cultured cities? Why, you set up a literary salon. This is Paris, after all.

Hotbeds of creativity and progressive ideas, salons are synonymous with the French Enlightenment. The salonnières most associated with the early days are women such as the colourful Madame Geoffrin, who ran arguably Paris’ most famous salon in the mid-18th century, hosting writers and artists. Women led many of the early salons in Europe, creating an important outlet for voices that otherwise might not have been heard. And women are often the catalysts in the current movement.

Today salons have had a renaissance, perhaps as a pushback against the decline of face-to-face human contact in our digital age. From poetry brunches to multimedia presentations in art galleries to scientific discussions in converted warehouses, these gatherings point to the universal need for personal interaction and mental exercise. They allow people to come together to increase their knowledge and hone their tastes through conversation and the exchange of ideas. Their mission is to allow debate, to stoke passion and to inspire.

“Part of my inspiration was Natalie Clifford Barney,” Brothers tells me, “another American expat who ran what was dubbed ‘the liveliest salon in Paris’ in the first half of the 1900s.” Brothers set up her own salon in Paris before moving again, this time to London. Now, her London Literary Salon is based in her living room, where patrons tackle such weighty authors as Joyce, Proust and Faulkner.

Salons are for the free exchange of any type of stories or ideas.

So, I tell myself, a salon is basically a book club. But I quickly learn that I’m oversimplifying: “We use the literature as a launch pad for deeper discussion,” Brothers explains. “It’s a means to an end rather than the end in itself. The literature is a road map to the bigger questions.”

My first lesson is learned: Salons are for the free exchange of any type of stories or ideas. Some salons marry a literary theme with a broader sense of culture or art. Inspired by an invitation to read from her then-in-progress novel at a SoHo art gallery, New York–based writer Vica Miller set up a multimedia salon in 2009. Her idea was to emulate the salons of 1920s Paris salonnière Gertrude Stein, with writers reading from new work amid contemporary art. “The multimedia component is important to me, as I love such synergies,” Miller says. “People connect on a different level because hearing a good story read aloud against a backdrop of amazing art is a transcendent experience.”

Other salons are completely removed from literature. I recently attended an event at Shoreditch House, a members’ club in a converted warehouse, organised by Salon London. The word “literary” doesn’t feature in its objectives of “Science, Art, Psychology.” Co-founder Helen Bagnall says, “People come from all disciplines and want community and intelligent entertainment.” So what’s up for discussion?

“In some ways, we’re what television should deliver,” Bagnall says. “If a salon works, the audience will hear something they’ve never heard before, pick up a new skill, and go away wanting to find out more.”

By the time the salon starts, some 50 people fill the room, with stools taken from the bar next door and standing room only. The Shoreditch House library seems more like a Lothario’s living room: huge velvet sofas, deep leather armchairs and faded Persian rugs. A zinc-topped table to one side forms the centrepiece of a makeshift but elaborate bar. David Nutt, a professor of neuropsychopharmacology, speaks on what medicines do to the brain. The subject: “The Truth About Drugs.” In the spirit of the salon, he sits, speaking in a conversational manner, inviting comments and questions. While it wasn’t a subject I would have expected for a salon, it was an insightful, witty, often challenging and thoroughly engaging affair, imbued with human interaction, laughter and the frisson of participation. I left energised, enlightened and intellectually stimulated. And I’d learned another lesson: Salons aren’t just a lot of people attending a reading or lecture. Even though modern salons may not be held in private sitting rooms and may be guided by a lecturer, the key is casual interaction and the exchange and growth of ideas.

London salons have become the vogue in recent years, and not simply for emerging writers. At the top of the list, playwright and journalist Damian Barr leads monthly events where established authors read from upcoming works and pitch ideas. The gatherings have gained such repute that they are now attended by the glitterati as well as the literati. Past sessions have featured the likes of David Nicholls, John Waters and Bret Easton Ellis. Barr has taken his literary salon abroad, too, holding events destinations like Istanbul. Which leads me to my next realisation: Modern salons aren’t held only in Paris, London or New York. (In fact, salons first developed in the Middle East.)

 

The trendy thing to do after iftar, the breaking of the fast, is to head out to various cafés for literary salons and open-mic reading nights.

The movement is gathering fresh momentum globally. Salons in the 21st century cross borders, languages and even the digital wall. In Dubai, amid a thriving arts and culture scene in the UAE, American expat, blogger and writer Danna Lorch has observed bibliophiles setting up their own discussion groups through Twitter and local literary festivals. “During Ramadan,” Lorch says, “the trendy thing to do after iftar, the breaking of the fast, is to head out to various cafés for literary salons and open-mic reading nights.” Here, the salon culture leans more towards poetry. It’s a tradition in the Middle East that dates back to the Middle Ages, with its recent incumbents led, in part, by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and his son, published poets who write in both English and Arabic.

Punch and The Poeticians, both run by poets, lead the new salon wave in Dubai. Punch is a short way of saying “poetry bunch.” Lebanese poet Zeina Hashem Beck organises the monthly event at BookMunch, a Dubai literary café. The Poeticians, founded in 2007 and also active in Amman and Beirut, is “an elastic entity welcoming anyone willing to share bits of their linguistic light with us in English, Arabic or French.” Both groups rely on Facebook for communication. So my next lesson, and perhaps the most surprising, is that yes, salons are about personal, often face-to-face, communication, but they aren’t forums for Luddites. Even if they develop as a reaction against the impersonal qualities of digital culture, today’s salons don’t distance themselves from the digital arena, but embrace it. Digital tools are encouraging salons to form and to grow: connecting people, distributing content, even offering salon events as podcasts.

Of all the salons around the world today, perhaps the Sunday Salon is the ultimate example of how salons are proliferating and reinventing themselves. Started in New York in 2002 by Alaskan Nita Noveno, the salon runs monthly events at Jimmy’s No. 43, a bar and restaurant in the East Village. Like many other salons, it was designed to encourage new writing and allow emerging writers to find an audience. It wasn’t long, though, before a counterpart group was set up in Chicago—and another in Nairobi. Thanks to Noveno’s use of the internet to encourage others to create similar groups, Salon Nairobi emerged in 2007 out of a partnership between Noveno and June Wanjiru Wainaina, founder of Kwani? Readings. Salon Nairobi has grown into quite the literary machine, publishing and distributing content, running festivals, offering tutelage, and making global connections.

This leads me to the most important thing I’ve learned about modern salons: In contrast to the aristocratic leanings of earlier salons, today’s groups depend on the principle of equality—of all opinions being valuable and up for discussion rather than attack. This latter point is something that’s often a lot easier to adhere to in face-to-face conversation; think of how much more tempting it is to dismiss an idea in, say, an online comments forum.

Literary salons have emerged for all manner of skill levels. Many offer a nurturing environment that novice writers may not find elsewhere. New York’s Pen Parentis, for writers who are parents, takes place in a hotel bar—with literary ambitions fuelled, presumably, by a much-needed cocktail. The Franklin Park reading series, held at the eponymous Brooklyn beer garden, features “emerging and established fiction writers, memoirists, poets and story-tellers,” highlighting “local talent and authors from around the world.” Lit at Lark showcases local authors in Brooklyn’s Lark café.

The environment may have changed, but the reasons for salons remain the same. “People get inspired,” says multimedia salon founder Miller. “Afterwards, writers have told me, they’ve gone back to their own writing desks to finish manuscripts in progress. Many have said they felt enchanted by the nurturing and creative atmosphere. New friendships are forged as people connect and have conversations on a deeper level, and a couple of writers secured an agent and a publishing deal after reading at the salon.”

The salonnière Madame Geoffrin would be proud.

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