A Scholar-Chef’s Guide to Suzhou, China

Charles Zhang is continuing a culinary legacy that stretches back generations. Born in Shanghai’s Sanlin neighbourhood, he apprenticed under master Li Mingfu, inheriting the traditions of Li Borong, a legend of Shanghai cuisine. After 12 years refining Jiangnan cuisine (known for its delicate flavours) at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake, he now leads Jin Jing Ge, a Michelin-recognized restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Suzhou, set on a private island in Jinji Lake. To understand his cooking, you have to understand where he finds his foundations. He studies classical texts like those of the Qing dynasty gastronome and poet Mei Yuan, reviving centuries-old recipes. One such revival is his steamed duck with fish maw, dried scallops, and shepherd’s purse, inspired by the Duck Hutu recipe from Yuan’s Suiyuan Shidan cookbook. He also regularly walks the narrow lanes of local markets and visits village farmers. Here, the scholar-chef shares the places that nourish his cooking and his soul in the historic city famed for its enchanting canals.

Zhang putting finishing touches on steamed duck with fish maw, bamboo shoots, and chestnut broth
Zhang putting finishing touches on steamed duck with fish maw, bamboo shoots, and chestnut broth

First-Broth Noodles

“Suzhou’s food culture is not found in glossy guidebooks. It lives in the early morning rituals of tou tang mian, the ‘first broth’ noodles made with the day’s freshest broth, and in the markets where grandmothers still haggle over seasonal greens. Tongdexing on Shiquan Street is my summer choice for tou tang mian. Their white broth carries a hint of fermented rice, light and faintly sweet, and the pork belly melts. Gu Su Qiao on Guanqian Street serves a darker, richer broth perfect for winter.”

Local Markets

“Suzhou’s food culture lives in its markets. Shuangta Market is where grandmothers select vegetables, and the soft Suzhou dialect floats through the air. Nearby, Rishengxing makes [glutinous rice] cakes that have been a local staple for decades. Fengmen Hengjie [Street] is rawer, more unfiltered—the place where the city comes to eat.”

Lake Farms

“To understand Suzhou’s cuisine and unique ingredients, you must visit the farms. In Xishan, I go for fox nuts. Around Xiaoxia Bay, the water is good, and the fox nuts have a texture you find nowhere else. No brand, no packaging. Just farmers sitting by the lake, shelling nuts by hand. Stop and talk with them; that is the real taste.”

Historic Towns of Luzhi and Lili

a historic canal in Luzhi
A historic canal in Luzhi. Photo by Adobe Stock

“I am drawn to places where you can see the craft of preservation. In Luzhi, it is the pickles and sauces; in Lili, the cured meats. Watching how time and patience transform ingredients, that is where profound flavour is born. Luzhi’s pickles are sharp, crisp, a legacy of centuries. Lili’s cured duck and pork, dried under sun and stars, carry a depth no shortcut can replicate.”

Xin Ju Feng

“This restaurant has been serving Suzhou since 1904. Their braised eel with hot oil arrives at the table with a dramatic sizzle, the oil poured just before serving, the eel tender, the sauce savoury with a subtle sweetness, infused with wok hei [breath of a wok].”

Pipa Yu Teahouse

“This teahouse [offering traditional Pingtan musical performances] is where I send anyone who wants to hear Suzhou’s soul. Sit by the canal with a pot of Biluochun tea; let the storytelling wash over you.”

Jin Jing Ge at Four Seasons Hotel Suzhou

Braised river shrimps with bean curd and pumpkin flowers at Jin Jing Ge
Braised river shrimps with bean curd and pumpkin flowers at Jin Jing Ge

“I recommend Jin Jing Ge not because it is mine, but because the room itself teaches you something about Suzhou. The celadon screens, the way light filters through like rain mist—dining here feels like walking through a garden. From the windows, Jinji Lake stretches to the modern skyline beyond.”

Kunqu and Tea

“Among the hotel’s experiences, I really enjoy the Kunqu opera performances [on public holidays and Saturdays] paired with a tea tasting. Kunqu is the mother of Chinese operas, born here in Suzhou. Its elegance, poetic language, and deliberate movements are pure Suzhou.”

Suzhou Museum of Contemporary Art

“The new museum, designed by BIG, is a bold international statement, yet it sits respectfully by the water, engaging with Suzhou’s classical identity.”

Hong Kong’s Savoury Alchemists

Hong Kong’s bustling and inventive cocktail bar scene is gaining well-deserved international recognition, with seven of its drinking establishments making Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. Here are five standouts in the global city that tap into the savoury side of mixology.

Argo

Hong Kong Punch at Argo
Hong Kong Punch

Inside Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, ARGO—the property’s foundational cocktail bar—has always existed on the edge, taking risks and championing innovation. Under the tutelage of the bar’s recently appointed beverage manager, Jonathan Gabbay, the cocktail program continues that tradition while simultaneously celebrating the city, its culture, and its homegrown flavours. For example, the Hong Kong Punch features black tea and egg-tart foam, paying tribute to the city’s coffee and tea customs. The Dreamscape, by contrast, relies on fat-washed coconut tequila and hazelnuts, chestnuts, and tonka beans. “This menu,” says Gabbay, “is a reflection of the encounters, passions, and shared experiences we’ve lived as a team, told through meaningful collaborations and the incredible products and craftsmanship Hong Kong has to offer.”

Bar Leone

Fig Leaf Negroni at Bar Leone
Fig Leaf Negroni

You wouldn’t expect to find an Italian cocktail bar in Hong Kong’s vibrant Central district, but that’s the intrigue of Bar Leone, an authentic osteria that recently claimed top honours on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. Founded by Lorenzo Antinori in 2023, the establishment feels lifted straight from Rome’s Trastevere neighbourhood and dazzles with captivating concoctions, such as Olive Oil Sours, Filthy Martinis ratcheted up with smoked olive brine, and Fig Leaf Negronis. “I enjoy balancing savoury flavours with others to create a compelling contrast,” says Antinori, “like pairing toasted corn flour with the fruitiness of pineapple or combining tomato with vermouth.”

Coa

Bloody Beef Maria at Coa
Bloody “Beef” Maria

Coa isn’t the only agave spirits–focused bar in Hong Kong—nor is it the first—but the Mexican-themed rathskeller is a pioneer in the city for its dedication to agave-centric cocktails. Here, south-of-the-border spirits take centre stage in savoury libations, where the bar’s founder, Jay Khan, orchestrates a symphony of umami-driven recipes that are as challenging as they are captivating. The Smacked Cucumber, for example, is a mezcal-based potion inspired by Chinese cucumber salad, while the clarified Bloody “Beef” Maria seduces with aromas of a summer garden but tastes of smoke and spice. “Savoury cocktails remain uncommon and consistently surprising,” says Khan, “and when done right, the rewards can be extraordinary.”

Gokan

Khun Tommy at Gokan
Khun’s Tommy

Opened in 2024, Gokan is the handiwork of mixology master Shingo Gokan, who modelled the spot around the Japanese kanji (character) for the “five senses,” conceptualizing a cocktail menu that’s dedicated to five flavour profiles—sweet, sour, spicy, bitter, and savoury. Standouts include the Mapo Mary, a twist on a Bloody Mary with Sichuan-spiced Wagyu mapo tofu, and the Khun’s Tommy, a tom yum–inspired riff on a classic margarita. Just don’t skip the Watermelon Coffeezz, a provocative blend of gin, watermelon, light-roasted coffee, shiso, and clarified almond milk—all of which are infused with a touch of CO2.

Savory Project

Mala Punch at Savory Project
Mala Punch features Sichuan pepper, fermented bean, and gin among its ingredients.

Patrons of Jay Khan’s second, newer cocktail den in the city (opened with Ajit Gurung) will discover a destination that—as its name implies—focuses its mixology on savoury ideals. Balanced, layered, and complex, the drinks here are as enticing as their menu descriptions are enigmatic. Take the Pepper + Corn, a libation characterized as: mezcal, charred corn husk, cumin, tomato, peppers, MSG. It tastes of a chilled not-so-spicy hot-and-sour soup, and it’s emblematic of Hong Kong’s adventuresome culinary climate. “This approach won’t resonate everywhere,” says Khan, “but it excels in mature cocktail markets with established bar cultures and palates that appreciate flavours beyond the orthodox.”

 

 

Art Is Everywhere

One can’t fully understand a culture until one understands the art it deems important. Stay at one of these Four Seasons hotels and resorts, and you won’t have to go very far to encounter museum-quality works. From a jaw-dropping sculpture garden on the grounds of Sensei Lānaʻi in Hawaii to a hotel lobby in Lisbon that feels more like a world-class art gallery, here are six properties where art is all around and easy to find (no ticket required). 

Sensei Lānaʻi, A Four Seasons Retreat 

Emily Young's Cautha at Sensei Lanai
Emily Young’s Cautha

Those who book a stay at the adults-only retreat on Hawaii’s smallest inhabited island are looking for quiet, exclusivity, and rejuvenation. Staffed by a top-tier team of Sensei Guides holding advanced degrees and certifications in fields like nutrition, holistic health, mindfulness, and exercise science, Sensei Lānaʻi is a place for guests to reset both body and mind. From one-on-one wellbeing consultations to complimentary daily group yoga classes, pampering treatments in private spa hales to nutritional fine dining from Sensei by Nobu, the resort pulls out all the stops to deliver opportunities for health and serenity to its guests. 

Jeff Koons’ Aphrodite

The grounds itself are an invitation to be more mindful. Outside, the garden is dotted with various monumental sculptures, including Marc Quinn’s Burning Desire, an enormous crimson flower; Jaume Plensa’s Talaia, a 45-foot female head meant to represent awareness; as well as several bronze figures by world-renowned artist Fernando Botero. Stroll the paths at your own pace, or sign up for an hour-long guided tour with an art curator. Inside, you’ll encounter an eclectic collection that includes works by LA-based mixed media artist Brooks Shane Salzwedel, French contemporary artist Jane Puylagarde, and Japan-born Seiko Tachibana. You’ll even find an arresting Jeff Koons piece in the lobby. 

Four Seasons Hotel Beijing 

Qin Feng’s Landscape of Desires No. 4 & 5

There is no shortage of historical landmarks to visit and classic art to see when you’re visiting China’s capital, one of the oldest cities in the world. When you stay at Four Seasons Hotel Beijing, a 27-floor luxury high-rise in the Liangmahe area of the Chaoyang District, you’re choosing an excellent home base for your explorations. The hotel offers guests guided expeditions to The Great Wall, Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, the hutongs of Beijing, and other must-visit heritage sites.  

Jayne Dyer’s Butterfly Effect in Beijing 2012

The elegant interior design of the hotel is polished and modern, but China’s rich cultural history is never far from mind. That past-present balance extends to its vibrant collection of works by contemporary artists. Many of the murals, paintings, and sculptures on display are inspired by the nature-focused works from the Tang Dynasty, known as China’s “Golden Age” of art and literature. From Qin Feng’s Landscape of Desires No. 4 & 5, a bold riff on Chinese calligraphy that hangs behind the reception desk, to Jayne Dyer’s Butterfly Effect in Beijing 2012, in which 384 stainless steel butterflies appear to soar up the main atrium wall from the Hotel’s Tea Garden, the art throughout, like the hotel itself, is a thoroughly modern take on tradition.  

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon 

Almada Negreiro’s Centaur

No list of hotels with exceptional artworks is complete without Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon, which houses one of Portugal’s largest and most prominent private art collections. The iconic Art Deco-meets-Louis XVI hotel, which opened in 1959 and underwent renovations in 2021, is broadly recognized for its seamless melding of impeccable hospitality with impressive modern art. The hotel has even created a free iPad app that can be used as a tour guide; for the little ones, the app includes a memory game that challenges them to recall pieces they’ve seen throughout the hotel. 

A bronze sculpture by Lagoa Henriques

Arguably the most famous artist featured in its collection is Portuguese Modernist Almada Negreiros. His magnificent Centaur trilogy of tapestries hangs in the hotel’s main lounge area; elsewhere hangs his partner Sarah Alfonso’s tapestry, fittingly and coincidentally titled As Quatro Estações (Four Seasons). Another highlight: two canvas oil paintings by Carlos Botelho that depict life in Lisbon in the 1950s. 

Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island 

Saeed Al Madani’s Untitled

Museum lovers have a new destination to flock to this year: Abu Dhabi. Since the opening of the Louvre Abu Dhabi in 2017, the capital of the United Arab Emirates has seen the arrival of two more significant cultural institutions, both in late 2025 (the Zayed National Museum and the Natural History Museum). And later this year, it welcomes the late Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Abu Dhabi.  

Ashwaq Abdulla’s The Seven Emirates

When you stay at Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island, a modern 34-storey waterfront sanctuary, you’ll have easy access to these museums (there’s even a direct shuttle from the hotel to the Louvre Abu Dhabi), but if your preference is to stay on the property, you’ll still be able to immerse yourself in top-notch art. The hotel boasts an extraordinary collection of 2,000-plus works by Emirati and international artists. Highlights include Saeed Al Madani’s visually striking piece inspired by Islamic calligraphy (a work so iconic that it’s replicated on the hotel’s key card) and Ashwaq Abdulla’s The Seven Emirates sculptures, a tribute to iconic landmarks in the country. 

Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane 

Peter Lane’s monumental 7-metre (23 foot) ceramic wall spans the stairwell.

The hotel, ideally located in Mayfair, overlooking Hyde Park, offers guided tours of all of London’s biggest art institutions—among them, the National Gallery, the V&A, and the Tate Modern—but you don’t need to step off the premises to see a significant piece by a significant modern artist. Hiding in plain sight at Bar Antoine, adjacent to Chef Yannick Alléno’s Michelin-starred Pavyllon London, is a show-stopping installation by renowned New York City ceramic artist Peter Lane. 

A second, smaller ceramic wall by Peter Lane in Bar Antoine

Working with a team of artists in his Brooklyn warehouse studio, Lane hand-sculpted 5,000 kilograms (5 tons) of clay into a 7-metre-high (23 foot) ceramic mural, finished with an oxidized verdigris glaze. The highly textured and layered vertical slab starts at Bar Antoine on the lower level and shoots up the atrium to the private dining room upstairs. The large-scale artwork was commissioned by interior-design superstar Chahan Minassian and unveiled at Bar Antoine and Pavyllon London’s opening in 2023. 

Four Seasons Hotel Florence 

The beautifully restored courtyard lobby

It’s truly difficult to separate art from the accommodations at Four Seasons Hotel Florence. Housed in two Renaissance-era buildings nestled within Gherardesca Garden, one of the largest private parks in Florence, the hotel is akin to a living museum. Its seven-year restoration was overseen by Florence’s Superintendent for Artistic and Historical Patrimony, the Ministry for Fine Arts and Culture, and the Department of Fine Arts.   

A gallery suite with original frescoes and paneled ceiling

Aside from meticulous restoration of original architectural details, the hotel has also prioritized period-appropriate artwork. In the courtyard a collection of 16th-century high-relief sculptures by Flemish artist Jan van der Straet, the property’s most valuable artwork, depict a cycle of classical and mythological events, while Baroque art, in the form of frescoes, dominate the highly decorated first-floor suites. Wherever you find yourself in this stunning property, you’ll be immersed in culture and art.  

 

 

Indelible India

Twice a year since 2023, the luxury menswear brand Stefano Ricci ventures out on the SR Explorer Project, an adventure with an award-winning photojournalist that pairs a spotlight on new collections with support of a local conservation charity.  

Over the years, donations have gone to the Kazakh Falconry Association for the research and reintroduction of eagles in western Mongolia; the Charles Darwin Foundation to protect giant tortoises on the Galápagos Islands; and Wild Earth Allies to protect and monitor Asian Elephants in Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains. “Our aim is to leave each place we explore a little better than when we found it,” the company’s creative director, Filippo Ricci, explains. 

An image taken in India’s Blue City from McCurry’s recent marketing campaign for Stefano Ricci. Photograph © Steve McCurry for Stefano Ricci.

For the latest expedition, the SR Explorer team—led by Filippo and his brother Niccolò, the company’s CEO—travelled to the states of Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan in India, bringing along photographer Steve McCurry, best known for his iconic photo Afghan Girl, which first ran on the cover of National Geographic in 1985.

McCurry began the tour by photographing endangered Bengal tigers in Ranthambore National Park. In 1900, India had 100,000 tigers in the wild; today, there are around 3,600. Though tiger hunting has been banned in India since 1972, there is still poaching, sometimes in response to attacks on livestock. That’s why Stefano Ricci chose to support Wild Seve, a program at India’s Centre for Wildlife Studies that helps communities live in harmony with nature.

Bengal tigers. Photograph by Julian W / Adobe Stock.

From there, SR Explorer set out across northern India, with McCurry shooting the brand’s spring-summer 2026 collection at such famed sites as the Taj Mahal, the iconic ivory-marble mausoleum on the banks of the Yamuna River; the City Palace, Jaipur’s 18th-century royal compound; and the Blue City, Jodhpur’s labyrinthine ancient quarter with vibrant blue-washed walls. 

“These are some of the most epic locations in the world—and places I love,” said McCurry, who has been shooting in India since his first days as a freelance photojournalist in the late 1970s. “To be in India awakens the senses.”  

The rooftop Aer bar at Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai

Many of northern India’s most celebrated historic sites are a two-hour flight from Mumbai, where Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai—with its modernist architecture, tropical gardens, tranquil pools, and sweeping views of the Arabian Sea—offers a refined urban retreat in the heart of the Worli district. The hotel’s curated city tours introduce guests to Mumbai’s layered history, including Mani Bhavan, the home that served as Mahatma Gandhi’s residence and political base from 1917 to 1934.  

All of this history and wonder is why SR Explorer chose India for its latest campaign—and what McCurry aims to capture with his images. “A mood that conveys places that are magical, beautiful, and fun and inspires people to see the world,” he says. “You will see the best that humanity can produce.”  

Four Seasons Hotel Nashville Mimo

Daniel Dae Kim’s Seoul

In his new CNN travel series K-Everything, actor and producer Daniel Dae Kim—known for his roles in Lost, Hawaii Five-O, and KPop Demon Hunters—explores the global resonance of Korean culture through entertainment, beauty, and cuisine. While he grew up mostly in the United States, Kim’s ties to South Korea are deep. He was born there (living in Busan until he was one year old), and in 2024, he spent seven months filming the spy-thriller series Butterfly in more than 20 cities across the country. That same year, the mayor of Seoul made him an honorary citizen of the capital, which he loves for its “fast-paced” vibe and rich dining scene. —Degen Pener 

Eat

Samwon Garden was established in 1976.

Samwon Garden: “If you like Korean barbecue, there’s a place called Samwon Garden. It’s been there forever, and the quality is still just fantastic. It’s huge, and even as big as it is, you have to make a reservation. It’s very popular.” 

Jinmi Sikdang: “I’m a seafood lover, coming from Busan, and there’s a dish called gejang, which is raw marinated crab. A place that does it so well is Jinmi. It has a very neighbourhood feel.” 

The serene interior of Mingles

Mingles: “It’s the only three-star Michelin restaurant in Seoul. The chef there [Mingoo Kang] is fantastic. He’s very innovative but also always true to Korean culture.” 

Linus BBQ: “There are a lot of Korean Americans who have gone back to Korea and started restaurants, one of whom is my friend Linus, who grew up in Alabama and [opened] an Alabama barbecue in the middle of Seoul. If you’re tired of eating Korean food when you’re in Korea, I highly recommend it.” 

Mutan: “I can’t talk about Korean food without talking about one of my favourite noodle dishes, jjajangmyeon. It’s black-bean noodles. Jjajangmyeon is kind of like the pizza of Korea. Mutan restaurant—at the branch in Jongno—has a [version] that is very different from typical jjajangmyeon [that] includes [steak] and truffles. It’s one of my favourite things.” 

Drink

A few of the exquisite offerings at Charles H.

Charles H. at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul: “I’m a big fan of the Four Seasons. It’s a great hotel, and their bar, Charles H., is one of the best bars in the city. If you’re really in the know, you know about the speakeasy [hidden behind a wall on the lower level of the hotel]. And tucked within Charles H., there’s another hidden bar [H. Bar]. But you didn’t hear that from me.” [Read our story on Four Seasons speakeasies here.]

Le Chamber owners Lim Jae-jin (left) and Eom Do-hwan

Le Chamber: “Some of my favourite bars are in the Cheongdam area. There’s one called Le Chamber, and when you go into the entrance, you have to pull the [correct] book from a bookshelf and then the door will open. There’s also a bar called Zest in Cheongdam that’s really great. At all of these places, the mixologists take their work very seriously.”  

See

Maitreya at Bongeunsa Temple. Photograph by Pimplub / Adobe Stock.

Bongeunsa Temple: “After you go to the temple of shopping in the COEX Mall, visit Bongeunsa in Gangnam. When I was shooting in Korea recently, I lived close by, and spending quiet, reflective time there was one of my favourite ways to escape the hustle and bustle of modern Seoul.”  

Leeum Museum of Art: “To see [contemporary art], I love the Leeum.” 

The exterior of Kukje Gallery.

Kukje Gallery: “The curators do such a great job of mixing international artists, like one of my favourites, Jenny Holzer, with up-and-coming Korean artists, as well as promoting major art movements like dansaekhwa, the Korean monochrome style.” 

Gentle Monster: “Visit the Gentle Monster in Seongsu. It is, in and of itself, an art installation, where you can shop for sunglasses among one-of-a-kind [sculptures] that couldn’t be more Instagram ready.” 

Four Seasons Seoul Exterior
Four Seasons Hotel Prague, Room