Tag: dining
An Unexpected Season: Truffles in August
“I always choose the liveliest dog in the pound,” says truffle-dog trainer Simon French as Mandy, a cross-breed border collie, eagerly zigzags through English oak trees planted over the past 15 years. Every time Mandy paws the ground, French throws down a washer with coloured ribbon. Although only a few trees have washers at their bases, one particularly dwarfish tree has almost a dozen.
“That’s what I like to see,” says Marcus Jessup, the farm manager, while browsing the grove at Tamar Valley Truffles. He bends down and sniffs the ground.
“This one seems ready,” he says. Jessup gingerly digs around the washer with a knife, uncovering a black bulb the size of a golf ball. He removes it with the care and precision of a heart surgeon.
It’s a Périgord truffle worthy of a Michelin-starred chef – here in the Tasmanian bush. In the U.S., truffles like the one sniffed out by French’s dog, known as “black diamonds,” easily fetch $700 a pound. Truffle fans have long flocked to restaurants and shops blessed with French and Italian truffles during those countries’ short-lived harvest season, which runs October through January. But Australian farmers have been rapidly developing their own truffle industry, one that has grown so ripe it has added a second season, from June to August.
Introducing the Australian Périgord truffle
“We learned about this opportunity nine years ago and thought we’d make a go of it,” says John Baily, a rancher and farmer in the Tamar Valley in northern Tasmania. That meant replanting 8 hectares (20 acres) of poppy fields – Australia is a big producer of pharmaceutical opium – with 3,000 oak trees. To nurture black diamonds, their roots were dipped in truffle sludge to produce spores.
In true Aussie fashion, a make-it-happen attitude is infusing the ancient brotherhood of truffières with improvisation. At harvest, Baily cleans mud from the truffles and moves them into a toolshed. There, seasonal workers place them in a spotless sink-size bin and dry them using small plastic fans from the local hardware store.
Were consultants brought in from France or Italy to put together this operation? “Nah,” Baily says. “We just figured it out as we went along.”
The making of a divine breakfast
There are two types of people who eat truffles,” the French writer Jean-Louis Vaudoyer noted. “Those who think truffles are good because they are dear, and those who know they are dear because they are good.”
Georgie Patterson, who lives in the Victorian countryside, fits both descriptions.
“I had six spaniels, and my husband, Marty, said he’d like them to pay for themselves,” Patterson says. “I thought it would be fun to train them to be truffle dogs.”
Now she rises at 5:00 am during harvest months to go to nearby farms to find truffles, or dig her own from the 1,100 oaks she planted next to the house.
“Marty has gotten a taste for truffles and now likes to shave them over his eggs for breakfast. I reckon he’s eaten several times the cost of the dogs,” she says with a smile. “But I’m getting more busy than ever. This has grown so quickly it stopped being a hobby.”
More than a hobby, indeed. Australian truffle producers are aggressively catching up with the Europeans. In 2014, an estimated 9 tons of truffles were harvested here, doubling in three years the yield of black diamonds from Down Under. French truffières dig up 20 to 30 tons of black truffles annually, but they’ve been at it for at least five centuries.
“Last year, I brought out my dogs to a new farmer to harvest her first season of truffles,” Patterson recalls. “I brought a fork and spoon to dig them out, but when I saw her with a big shovel, I said, ‘You’re confident!’”
Where to eat Australian truffles
In Sydney: If you’re close to the source, the team at Four Seasons Hotel Sydney recommends a visit to the Harbour City from June through August to try the truffles at their peak. A must-visit is Madame Truffles, which is only open during the peak season.
Four Seasons Hotel Sydney
In Hong Kong: Three restaurants at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong plan to feature Australian truffles this year, each with a unique take on the gourmet ingredient. Sample Executive Chinese Chef Chan Yan Tak’s wild mushroom tasting menu in July and August at Lung King Heen. Executive Chef Andrea Accordi at The Lounge will have a special Australian winter black truffle menu, and Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Vulin will prepare two Australian winter truffle dishes at Caprice.
Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong
In California: “When they were first introduced to me a few years ago, I was a little sceptical,” recalls Josiah Citrin, who runs the Michelin-starred Mélisse restaurant in Santa Monica, California, in driving distance from Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. “But they’re great, and now I have a reliable source for summer. If anything, I’d say we have way more consistency in the truffles coming from Australia.”
Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills
The Best Places for Brunch
Around the Globe
Brunch is an integral aspect of any culinary journey. – Layne Nguyen, General Manager at Nobu Doha
There are few better ways to toast a week’s end than with brunch. The meal that falls somewhere between breakfast and lunch is a time for celebration, community and little agenda beyond filling plate after plate with global delicacies like Peking duck, beef Wellington and eggs Benedict – plus copious tipples of Champagne. Whether you’re travelling to an exotic port city or hunkering down in a cultural capital, book a table at one of the best places for brunch with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts.
Los Angeles: Sunday Brunch at Culina, Modern Italian
Locals consider Culina, Modern Italian’s Sunday dining affair the most extravagant in the City of Angels, thanks to its multiple dining stations (including omelettes and fresh, custom juices) and a fondue fountain that overflows with some 40 pounds of chocolate every single week. The restaurant is also a magnet for celebs, and though we can’t mention the boldfaced names of many regular diners, you’ll surely recognise their faces.
Recently added to the menu: pizza from the restaurant’s new al fresco pizza oven, set on the patio underneath California skies. Don’t miss ordering Chef Luca Moriconi’s favourite: Pizza with Burrata e Speck. “I love the fact that the tomatoes are locally sourced and the burrata is from Puglia,” he says. “The smoky flavour from the Speck completes the flavour profile for an amazing pizza!” To go off-campus for your next bite, head to Bianca Bakery, where Moriconi brings his own family. “It is a new Italian-Argentinian place where you can enjoy great bread, pastries, pasta and mimosas,” he says.
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills >
Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills
Washington, DC: Sunday Brunch at Seasons
On sunny spring days, political players and denizens desiring a gossip session reserve seats on the outdoor terrace at Seasons for views of Rock Creek Parkway’s joggers and cherry-blossom-seeking travellers. It’s a favourite for special occasions like Mother’s Day, but every weekend is packed – and delicious – thanks to Chef Andrew Court’s expansive menu. Locals stop by regularly to try the international station with rotating themes, which might include anything from sushi to paella. Currently on offer? The charms of a Hawaiian luau, such as pineapple fried rice with spicy shrimp, chef-carved kalua pork with passion fruit sauce, and Hawaiian barbecue chicken.
When he’s grabbing his own brunch, Court often beelines to the cheekily named Dirty Habit in D.C.’s Penn Quarter. “I used to go to the original Dirty Habit in San Francisco when I was living there, so it’s become a tradition,” he says. “I’ll generally order the house-made yogurt and granola, then the BBQ Burrito or the Healthy Bowl – it depends on how much exercise I can get in on Sunday morning!”
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Hotel Washington, DC >
Four Seasons Hotel Washington, DC
Amaranto Restaurant is inarguably chic: Polished black marble and dark red booths create an intimate environment. The mouthwatering menu is an Anglophile’s delight, featuring Gloucestershire beef, Kent berries and Shetland smoked salmon. Those with a sweet tooth shouldn’t leave without trying the lemon ricotta pancakes with Yorkshire rhubarb compote – an ideal way to kick-start another day in the city.
For another brunch experience in London, Ivan Arena, Bar Manager at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane, recommends Granger & Co: “My go-to order is the Sweet Corn Fritter dish, followed by something sweet from the bakery menu. They also do a very good Bloody Mary, which is always important to me!”
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane >
Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane
The 2,400-square-metre Nobu outpost in Doha is one of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s largest restaurants, and the menu is worthy of its grand space on the Marina, where nearly every seat overlooks the Arabian Gulf. While a Sunday or Saturday brunch is customary in much of the world, catch it here on Friday, the first day of the Arabic weekend. It’s well worthy of a splurge, thanks to dishes like lobster quinoa risotto and Wagyu rib-eye.
“Not only are guests treated to incredible cuisine with a wonderful tasting-style menu,” says Layne Nguyen, General Manager at Nobu Doha, “but the Friday brunch allows for an ideal ambience to gather with family and friends and reconnect over a magnificent meal, matched by a stylish setting.”
If you’re ready for another local gem, Andrew Bozoki, Head Chef of Nobu, recommends brunching at Baladna Farm Restaurant in northern Qatar. “I love the lamb thareed there, and the fact that I can visit their milk factory with my family,” he says. “It’s the place to savour delicious Arabic-style food alongside the freshest possible dairy products.”
Four Seasons Hotel Doha
Bahrain Bay: Friday Brunch at CUT by Wolfgang Puck
Celebrity Chef Wolfgang Puck brings his cutting-edge experience to the meat-centric CUT restaurant in the capital city of Manama – a brunch spot beloved by diplomats and members of the royal family. When it comes to the à la carte menu, start with Puck’s famous pretzel bread, then move on to more filling fare, served family style: creamy burrata bruschetta, steak skewers with a kick of chimichurri sauce, and homemade pasta. Try the filet mignon au poivre – a USDA prime hunk of marbled steak drizzled in black peppercorn and mustard sauce.
Another favourite, suggested by Fabio Marques, Director of CUT by Wolfgang Puck: NOMAD Urban Eatery. “It’s a great spot for brunch, with an elegant and sophisticated Greek design,” he says. “The friendly staff and quality food make for a pleasant and relaxed dining experience.”
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay >
Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay
Macau: Wellness Menu at Windows
Healthy living is the order of the day at Windows, an intimate fireside lounge helmed by Executive Sous-Chef Benjamin Lim. Dishes on the all-day menu would delight any wellness enthusiast, including meat-free Impossible burgers served with tahini and grilled eggplant; turmeric bliss kombucha; and a vitamin- and antioxidant-stocked juice blend with guava, orange, blueberry and raspberry – an excellent way to prepare for a day of exploring Macau’s ancient temples.
When Lim himself ventures into Macau for brunch, he often selects Shun Hin, where his go-to dish is braised black mushrooms and assorted vegetables in fish broth. “Macau is a place where I have been immersed in the Chinese culture, especially the food culture,” he says. “Dim sum with tea starts as breakfast and is served until lunchtime, and can be savoury or sweet – a wonderful way to enjoy the moment with your family.”
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Hotel Macao, Cotai Strip®
Four Seasons Hotel Macao, Cotai Strip®
Singapore: Champagne Brunch at One-Ninety: Wood-Fired Steaks and Seafood
Newly reborn as a botanically rich Provençal and Asian brasserie, One-Ninety is practically tailor-made for Instagram, thanks to abundant flowers and lush, tropical plantings that dangle from columns and adorn the bar. Restaurant Chef Kamarl John, who formerly worked with Michelin-garnering chef David Myers, begins each brunch with artisan sourdough bread made from flour milled in Hokkaido, Japan, and served with seaweed butter. His inventive Sunday brunch menu features abundant dishes such as chilli crab omelettes with mantou buns and coriander, and laksa rice noodles with cockles, scallops and quail eggs. Guests love the option of adding free-flowing bubbly – Taittinger Brut champagne or Ruffino Prosecco – and the sustainably sourced seafood tower with Maine lobster, king crab, bluefin tuna, fresh prawns and Hokkaido scallops.
To sit down for brunch, he often heads to Five Oars Coffee Roasters. “The restaurant always reminds me of a trendy, informal brunch spot in London, and they serve really great food,” John says. “My must-orders are the Five Oars Breakfast and their craft beers and ales.”
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Hotel Singapore >
Four Seasons Hotel Singapore
Technically it isn’t brunch, but since it’s so special for families visiting Four Seasons Resort Orlando Walt Disney World® Resort, we couldn’t resist including it. On Thursday, Saturday and select Tuesday mornings, Goofy and his pals arrive to entertain picky eaters of all ages at the Resort’s Ravello restaurant.
Ask for a table on the patio overlooking the lake and fountains. Though your kids may be too distracted by Minnie Mouse to realise that the jams are homemade and the bread freshly baked, after their professional photos you can all enjoy house-cured meats followed by the Nutella-filled bomboloni on the dessert table.
When he’s seeking out a magical brunch for himself in Orlando, Executive Sous-Chef Ryan Schelling heads to DoveCote downtown. “The brioche French toast is fantastic, and the steak and eggs are a great way to start a Sunday,” he says. “I love the chicken liver pâté, which keeps me going back. After seeing the dishes you didn’t order, you’ll want to return to try it all.”
See what else is on the menu at Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World® Resort >
Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World® Resort
Spring Cocktails With a Twist
One of the greatest rewards of travel – or reminiscing about a journey – is the engagement of the senses: New sights, sounds, smells and tastes come together to portray a destination in its fullness.
Wander along the beach in Punta Mita and listen to the waves lapping at the shore as you smell – and taste – the salty breeze blowing through your hair. Take a hike in the crisp mountain air of Jackson Hole and feel delicate snowflakes melt on your face, or the delicious steam of hot cocoa after a day on the slopes.
These are the types of flavours, scents and experiences that inspire Four Seasons mixologists. Add seasonal harvests from local gardens – think flowers, herbs and even mushrooms – and the result is spring cocktails that capture the spirit of global destinations.
Here’s a taste.
Lisbon: LX Purple Bloom
Every spring, Lisbon’s first jacaranda blossom serves as a sign that a new season has arrived; next, the city streets are lined with beautiful purple, violet and lavender. Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon celebrates the occasion with a jacaranda-themed cocktail.
In the months where the city flourishes into lavender, it seems only fitting that the cocktails at the Ritz Bar follow suit.
It was the violet view of the city from the terrace at the Ritz Bar that inspired the LX Purple Bloom, a refreshing mix of Portuguese Gin Nao, St-Germain liqueur, Pêra Rocha purée, grapefruit juice and a spritz of rose water.
Scottsdale: Tip of the Cap
April showers bring not only flowers but also mushrooms to the Scottsdale area. In a surprising twist on the change of seasons, chefs at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North delicately infuse this local harvest with citrus and herbs to achieve a fresh, earthy taste.
Fruit and floral notes are predominant in springtime cocktail menus, but the rich umami aspect that mushrooms bring [is often] bypassed.
A variation on the traditional dirty martini, Tip of the Cap replaces olive brine with a porcini “tea” made of local mushrooms, herbs and lemon. That tea is combined with Stoli Elit vodka in a Sercial Madeira–rinsed rocks glass and garnished with a pickled porcini mushroom, a twist of lemon and a sprig of thyme.
Doha: Rose Gold Julab
Vast desert landscapes and a bustling, cosmopolitan city greet visitors to Doha. Tradition is not lost here; a thriving coffee house culture makes for unique opportunities to learn more about Qatar and the Middle East. It’s not uncommon to see locals adding rose water to their caffeinated beverages, lemonade or milk.
Rose water has a very distinctive flavour. It’s aromatic, which makes it refreshing in the hot sun.
At Four Seasons Hotel Doha, rose water is an essential ingredient in the Rose Gold Julab. Mixed with a simple syrup and vodka, served over crushed ice with mint leaves and rose petals, it makes a fine treat.
Seychelles: Hibiscus Shower
Quintessentially tropical hibiscus flowers brighten your stroll around the grounds at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles. They’re a beautiful addition to the scenery – and they’re full of fresh, citrusy flavour.
In our tropical environment, we often have rain showers which make these beautiful flowers bloom.
The Resort’s Kannel Bar makes the most of that citrus flavour – and the abundance of blossoms. The flowers in its Hibiscus Shower cocktails are handpicked from the property grounds. Hibiscus iced tea, Cointreau, local Takamaka coco rum and pineapple juice combine for an unbeatable chilled drink.
Chiang Mai: Siam Honey Breeze
In Northern Thailand, spring comes with plenty of rainfall. It can be seen in the lush green blankets of vegetation on the surrounding mountains, and tasted in the sweetness of Thai honey.
Thai honey is at its most delicate and delicious in April and May.
Thai honey isn’t the only local ingredient at its peak in spring. At Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, mixologists merge camomile-flower tea – brewed using fresh blossoms from the Mon Jam district – with local honey and Thai rum, lemon and ginger ale to create the Siam Honey Breeze, an original cocktail with a fresh perspective.
Editor’s note: While some of these spring cocktails may no longer be listed on the menu, most can be made upon special request.
5 Secrets to Living La Dolce Vita
Wisps of mist float above a patchwork of vineyards while the early morning sun paints the sky a soft pink. From the medieval village on the ridge above, you hear the sound of church bells as your convertible zigzags past the vines. It may be early, but you’re already dreaming of fresh pasta al dente and a drop of Barolo for a lazy lunch on a sunny terrace.
For Italians, this is perfection. This is la dolce vita.
In The Good Italian II: The Prince Goes to Milan – a short film presented by the Italian menswear brand Caruso – the fictional Prince of Soragna embodies la dolce vita from the moment his Lancia Aurelia sports car pulls up at the entrance of Four Seasons Hotel Milano. Throughout the film and his stay at the Hotel, the prince (played masterfully by actor Giancarlo Giannini) seeks out and enjoys only the finest in food, entertainment, fashion, accommodations and service. He requests perfection in every bite, in every experience.
And he’s not alone. Italians from Florence to Milan have an appetite for only the finest cashmere, the most fragrant basil and the most handsome sports cars. Together, these are essential ingredients of la dolce vita, a unique recipe for life that locals have been perfecting for centuries.
Fortunately, they’re quick to share their secrets with anyone craving to live like an Italian.
“In Italy we always look to share happiness with another human being and try to make the most of that moment. The food, wine and the experience of living – it is only beautiful if you can share it with somebody.”
– Mauro Governato, Four Seasons Hotel Milano
1. “Liguria is to pasta what Naples is to pizza”
Italians are passionate about food. On the street, you’ll hear people sharing recipes and debating about where to find their favourite ingredients. Vito Mollica, Executive Chef at La Veranda and Il Palagio, is particularly proud of his linguine with pesto, a highlight in the film.
He learned the art of making linguine in Liguria, the rugged coastal region in northern Italy where it originated. “Liguria is to pasta what Naples is to pizza. You won’t understand pasta unless you have been trained by a Ligurian,” the chef says with a smile.
The linguine is one of Mollica’s most popular dishes, and the chef loves to share his special recipe with guests, who can venture into the kitchen for a private class. And like the prince in the film, he is very particular when choosing the ingredients to go with his signature pasta.
“It’s important to use the freshest ingredients and the best technique so we produce something really amazing.”
– Vito Mollica, Executive Chef
“Liguria is a small, hilly region, so they made terraces on the hills to grow their vegetables,” he says. “They don’t produce a lot, but they produce the highest-quality artichokes, asparagus and basil.”
2. Spezzato is the key to great Italian style
Italians dress to impress, and competition is especially fierce on the streets of Milan, the country’s fashion capital. After all, this is the land of spezzato, a word created especially to describe the artful way Italian men mix and match jackets and trousers versus simply suiting up.
Here, style is more than just looking the part – you must live and breathe it through a commitment to top-tier fabrics and tailoring, worn with an air of unstudied, effortless elegance. The prince in the film is the picture of Italian swagger, from that first flip of the scarf as he takes off for the Hotel to the moment when he lovingly caresses the suit he knows is perfect for the occasion.
The best way to start crafting your own Italian style identity is to mimic the masters, and, thankfully, Four Seasons Milano is located in the heart of the city’s fashion district – with big-name designers like Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Tod’s only a short stroll away.
Four Seasons Hotel Milano
Right next to the Hotel, Caruso has an elegant boutique displaying the finest apparel, worn by the prince as he listens to one of the operas of Italian legend Giuseppe Verdi.
At Caruso, hundreds of fine fabrics are available, including cashmere, wool blends, gabardine flannels, houndstooth and even camel’s hair from the Gobi Desert that is specially crafted for Caruso. Perfection can be subjective, so at Caruso, each suit is completely customised down to every last artistic detail, including individual patterns and hand-stitching.
“Italians are only happy with what they think is the best. You can trace la dolce vita back 2,500 years. The ancient Romans lived such a level of sophistication that it has not been matched. That is who we are, and we do it effortlessly.”
– Umberto Angeloni, Caruso President and CEO
3. Embrace la bella figura
Italians like to create a good impression wherever they go. You might call it showing off; they call it la bella figura. The prince in the film teaches us that the best way to arrive in style is behind the wheel of an Italian sports car – with the convertible top down, sunshine streaming in and opera playing on the radio.
Four Seasons Milano can arrange for guests to take a similar drive behind the wheel of a Giulietta Spider, an Italian classic that experts say is one of the best-kept secrets in the vintage car market.
Hop into the roadster and travel 55 miles (90 kilometres) out of the city, along picturesque, tree-lined lanes and quaint villages, to arrive at the deep-blue waters of Lake Como. Then spend the day zipping around the town’s spectacular pastel-coloured villas, stopping only to admire the views and dine at a lakefront restaurant.
“All you have to do is enjoy the car,” Hotel Concierge Gabriele Conte says of this outing. “We send a mechanic to follow you and to offer personal assistance like taking care of the parking. This is living la dolce vita.”
4. Every moment deserves amore
For Italians, a good meal is not solely about delectable dishes. Flavour goes hand in hand with amore and creating the right setting to indulge in both. After all, the prince wasn’t just after the perfect sprig of basil – he needed the perfect place to share the moment with his niece.
Four Seasons Hotel Firenze takes care of the meal, the magical setting and every detail in between during its Golden Dinner on the Ponte Vecchio experience. The Hotel has exclusive access to the city’s most famous bridge and its only open-air terrace, tucked above the famous jewellery boutique of Dante Cardini. Here, you can enjoy a romantic and private dinner for two.
“You can have a magic moment. We work on every detail so the experience is shared . . . in a perfect way.”
– Vito Mollica, Executive Chef
The crowded streets below are forgotten as soon as the intimate dinner begins with a glass of chilled Champagne. As the sun sets, enjoy a four-course gourmet meal, inspired by the many jewellery stores below, created especially for the occasion by Michelin-starred chef Vito Mollica.
Four Seasons Hotel Firenze
5. Everyone is famiglia
Ask any Italian: The best way to enjoy la dolce vita is with someone you treasure, be it family, friends or a soulmate. Yet Italians are also happy to open their doors and offer hospitality to people from faraway places. Everyone is welcome.
“[Life] is only beautiful if you can share it with somebody.”
– Mauro Governato, Four Seasons Hotel Milano
For Paul Lydka, Concierge at Four Seasons Firenze, one of his favourite things about living la dolce vita is stopping in an unfamiliar village to order a bread roll with pecorino and prosciutto, along with a glass of Chianti. “It’s very special,” he says. “You’ll find Italians are very sociable. In the villages, they start a conversation even if you only say ‘buongiorno.’ Language is no barrier.”Angeloni echoes this sentiment: “Italians know how to live well – we know how to create pleasure, whether it’s a dish of pasta or a landscape. It is part of our identity, and it is something we have to share.”
Experience Italian culture and la dolce vita through the Florentine Lifestyle and Milano Lifestyle packages on offer at Four Seasons Firenze and Four Seasons Milano today. In the video below, get a taste of the only-in-Italy art, culture, fashion and dining experiences that await in both destinations.
