Private Jet Travel Diary: 8 Memories From My Trip Around the World

Three years ago, my kids and I boarded the Four Seasons Private Jet for a global tour. It would be, and still remains, a tremendous experience. I can honestly say it changed all our lives, each of us for a different reason. The trip occurred at a time of great transition; we were coming out on the other side of some very difficult times. It was a celebration – and the best decision we could have made.


Shari in Seychelles

The author in Seychelles.

My seatmate at that time, Carol, was a young woman from California. A stranger then, she’s since become a true friend. And, with the same seats as before, we embark once again – sans my children – on an inaugural journey.

We’re not the only ones. There are 17 returning passengers on this “World of Adventures” tour, which, over the course of 24 days, takes us to eight countries and locales like Kyoto, Seychelles, Rwanda, even the Galápagos Islands.

For three weeks we are surrounded by beauty, discovering worlds and peoples and getting glimpses of places where the public is typically not allowed. I completely lose myself in what each destination has to offer – that’s the secret to a trip of this kind.

Although we spent several days in each place – and had countless incredible experiences along the way – here, a few treasured moments from my travel diary that offer a peek into life aboard the Four Seasons Private Jet.

Gardens and Glass in Seattle

The fog has settled beautifully in the bay when I wake up early on the morning of our departure. I’m too excited to keep sleeping. The comfort of the jet is perfect for naps anyway, I tell myself.

We had our first group event the night before: a private dinner at the Chihuly Garden and Glass museum within the Seattle Center, an exquisite showcase of Dale Chihuly’s work. Each of us stood in total awe of the spectacular display of colours as we began to make our introductions. It was a lovely affair, with every detail considered for us – something I’m happy to get used to.

 

Four Seasons Hotel Seattle

Artful Expressions in Kyoto

Kyoto, you are a welcome sight to behold. My room overlooks both gardens and historic temples – an apt representation of the two sides of the city, Alex, the Hotel’s general manager, tells me. Especially given that the gardens are more than 800 years old. Each morning I sip my tea, which comes in a beautiful traditional Japanese teapot along with hand-painted ceramic cups, and watch the sun rise.

The food here is an art form. I have the pleasure of being seated in front of one of the sushi masters as he prepares my meal with expert precision. I eat sea bream steamed in sake and lovely fatty tuna. I even try my hand at making maki with the help of an incredibly charming assistant who, admittedly, does most of the work.

I had the most amazing encounter with a samurai master who trained Uma Thurman and choreographed scenes in Kill Bill. Well, all I can say is, Uma, look out. There’s a new group in town. Who knew he could make warriors out of us in just two hours – at least that’s how it felt. We’ll file away the videos that perhaps prove otherwise. Such fun.

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

Memorable Learnings in Bali

This morning we visited a Balinese elementary school, and I had tears in my eyes for over an hour. The children, positively beaming, were all dressed in white. They greeted us with a special song and dance performance and invited us into their classroom, where we tried not to distract as they wove baskets, created daily temple offerings and practiced their arithmetic. We were there to offer the class a donation of new backpacks, one for each student. Our group waded through, handing them out personally. Such a special memory.

Outside, we’re enveloped by green – lush, verdant landscapes everywhere we look. At night I fall asleep to the sounds of the jungle. We’re about a week in, and I think I’ve found my rhythm.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Pool of Calm in Seychelles

Even on such a luxurious trip you need downtime. Today it comes in the form of a hillside-perched villa overlooking a sugary stretch of beach. We arrive late in the afternoon, and the first thing I do upon entering my little cottage – with its fresh breezes and loungers at the ready – is drop my things and sink into the private plunge pool, where I spend the next 30 minutes. Room service and early to bed is the recommendation for tonight.

Just before sunset we head out on a catamaran cruise. Now you’re speaking my language. You can see the sun sink into the ocean a thousand times, but it still always feels novel somehow. The Jet’s Executive Chef is with me. We know each other from my previous trip, so there’s an ease between us. I’m so happy to be enjoying these moments with the journey crew. They let go, as much as they can, and laugh along with us. We’re all in the mood to let loose a little. Good thing there’s a DJ on board.

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda

Twenty minutes into our trek, we hear them. It’s strange really, the sound – like empty coconuts banging and snapping bushes. Everyone stops, looking at one another with eyes wide. Is this really happening? Without warning, we’re amongst a family of mountain gorillas. We’re in Dian Fossey territory and we are in awe.

Two-year-olds swinging from trees, moms carrying babies, silverbacks holding court, teenagers shuffling about trying to look important – just as you would expect a family to behave. The energy is electric. We’re taking pains to be careful on approach, but the gorillas soon let us know we can relax. One hour of watching and every one of us still wears a smile. We speak softly, as instructed. I stand very still. A mother is laying in a hollow beside me with her two little ones. I’m barely breathing as she stretches her arm towards me. She unfurls her hand and touches my boot. Our eyes lock. This, to me, is the most important minute of the entire journey.

 

 

 

Swept Up in Marrakech

Waking up in Marrakech: It’s warm and bustling and crowded and fragrant – where to begin? Perhaps with the Resort, which is gorgeous, tranquil, spacious. But we depart early to be absorbed by the city. This morning it’s the Saadian Tombs, with magnificently carved and tiled structures once home to the remains of royalty, sealed for centuries before their rediscovery. The streets we pass through are boisterous and full of energy; there’s no dallying here, only swift movement with purpose.

And the markets. Luscious coloured spices piled high, stacked behind the barrels of soaps, teas, dried herbs. I’m mesmerized by the bounty of colours and smells. Every corner, every turn is a visual feast as we move through a maze of streets.

That evening we join the flight crew and journey staff for a banquet-like dinner complete with high-energy music and dancing. This is Marrakech. True to its reputation, Four Seasons puts on a spectacular display, from the lighted red carpet to the smartly dressed hosts carrying trays of pink martinis aptly named Cosmorrocans. The atmosphere inside was so inviting I forgot all about getting my picture with one of the camels out front.

Four Seasons Resort Marrakech

Kitchen Play in Bogotá

Executive Chef Carmine Esposito agrees to let me whirl around his kitchen tomorrow, and I cannot wait. The Michelin-starred culinary genius, who also appears on Master Chef Junior in Colombia, is as warm and generous as they come. He’s Italian, but he’s spent the past three years in Bogotá with his family.

The next morning he shows up holding a uniform and says, “You ready? Put this on; we’re going to work.” I giddily do as I’m told and bring along two other guests, Doreen and Tom from across the aisle. Needless to say, we have the best time making gourmet pizza from scratch and taste-testing what’s on offer for the day. Bonding over how we each roast pumpkin for soup is definitely a highlight. Later, we three sit in the dining room and enjoy Barolos with our lunch – still in uniform, of course.

Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogota

Natural Wonder in the Galápagos

There are too many tortoises to count. As we wander carefully among them some retreat into their shells, but one doesn’t. We’re told he’s about 90 years old, with a swagger he’s no doubt earned. He stares each one of us in the eyes, holds our gaze and then goes back to eating. Yes, we know, we are the visitors here.

Leaving the island to head for the ship, where we’re staying, I’m reminded how much the sea lions too are a part of everyday life here. They slip in and out of the water so gracefully, you don’t even notice until you’re right beside one. We pull anchor as the sun sinks gloriously into the horizon. It’s a slow cruise in shiny black waters. Onboard the ship, music is playing and there’s a party waiting for us. One thing’s for certain: This night will not end early.

Onboard the jet for what will be our last stretch to Florida, we drag out packing our things. No one sits in their own seat. Everyone is moving about, saying goodbyes and hugging. There are conversations about the future. We don’t need to spend time getting each other’s contact information; that will be prepared for us. For now, we cheers each other; we toast the amazing crew; we laugh the loudest we have yet.

As I look around I wonder what everyone is thinking, just as I did on the first flight. Memories from the past three weeks flood in, but, for me, it all boils down to this: It’s not about the destinations themselves; it’s what aspects of them you carry with you, how they become part of you. That’s the real magic.

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Cityscape

A Week Well Spent in Bogotá

Globally inspired restaurants, world-class museums, a buzzed-about design scene and plenty of neighbourhoods ripe for exploring – there’s a lot to like about Bogotá, not least its contagious energy. If you’re seeking inspiration for an itinerary, here’s how my family and I tackled the South American city on our last visit.

Friday, 9:30 am: The Best View in Town

It’s difficult to grasp the sprawl of Bogotá until I see it from the top of Cerro de Monserrate, where the altitude is a breathtaking 3,152 metres (10,341 feet). Those who want to earn their view can hike up the hill; others, like us, opt for the toddler-approved choice: a ride on the funicular. Eventually we tear ourselves away from the panorama to look inside the 17th-century church – pilgrims come to it to prostrate themselves before the Altar of the Fallen Christ.

From here, it’s a quick drive to La Candelaria, the colourful historic centre, to visit cultural institutions like the popular Museo de Oro, whose thousands of ancient gold artefacts are glimpses into a pre-Columbian world of extravagance. In an odd juxtaposition, there’s the Museo Botero; Fernando Botero is known for his paintings and sculptures of corpulent figures, many shown from the back.

Friday, 3:00 pm: A Meal to Remember

Ready to be refuelled, we collapse into our seats at lunch-only Prudencia, a light-filled restaurant where Chef Mario Rosero stops by each table to say hello. Luck is on our side: Our 2-year-old son is passed out in his stroller, and he remains so throughout the duration of the leisurely affair. Rosero’s menu changes daily and stars local ingredients in dishes like the melt-in-your-mouth beef rib served with creamed corn and sautéed mustard leaves. Make sure to order the rustic homemade bread, so good we pack the rest to go.

Saturday, 8:30 am: The Hidden Gem

Despite its location right in the middle of the city, the tiny Quinta Camacho neighbourhood feels more like a charming village than part of a bustling metropolis. It’s known for its distinctive architecture – brick Tudor-style houses have been transformed into boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and bakeries such as Brot, where we plot our day over flaky croissants.

On our list of stops: Wilborada 1047 Bookstore, which will make you wish for independent bookshops everywhere; Ba Hué, a concept boutique where men’s and women’s fashions from more than 30 designers are displayed like works of art; and Casa Riegner, a respected gallery that champions contemporary Latin American artists. Our “eat and drink” list is ambitious as well: Guerrero, a casual new sandwich shop; Siete Cabras, for pizzas cooked over firewood; and cocktails at Huerta Coctelería Artesanal, a buzzy bar that incorporates fruits and vegetables into drinks like the Mezcalitico (made with Mezcal Montelobos, elixir of blackberry and ginger, basil, and lemon).

Sunday, 10:00 am: Caffeine and Crafts

On the recommendation of Juan Diego Lopez Verano, a front desk agent at
Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogotá
, we get a lesson in Colombian coffee at Catación Pública, an educational café in the historic neighbourhood of Usaquen. After sampling beans from three of the country’s 20-plus growing regions, we stroll the Usaquen flea market, open on Sundays only. Learn from our mistake and save suitcase space so you won’t have to leave the traditional woven bags, organic soaps and other handmade crafts behind.

Sunday, 2:30 pm: Escape the City

It takes about 40 minutes of winding up a single-lane mountain road to reach the countryside town of La Calera, a worthwhile half-day trip from the city. After browsing the vendors in the main square and picking up some honey candies and mangosteens for later, we settle at an outdoor table at El Palmar del Café, a no-frills restaurant that serves what I’ve been told is the best ajiaco in the area. This traditional soup – made from different kinds of potato, shredded chicken, half an ear of corn and a mild herb called guasca – is served with avocado and thick cream to stir in. It’s rich and hearty, but somehow doesn’t leave us too full to sample treats from the bakery nearby, Postres Olivar. My personal favourite: the classic almojábana, a dinner roll–shaped bread made from corn flour and a soft, sweet cheese.

Monday, 11:00 am: Downtown Exploration

An hour into our Bogotá Graffiti Tour our guide, Jay, has already imparted a wealth of local knowledge – and not just about the incredible street art that seems to cover almost every surface. We’ve learned that Colombia is responsible for 70 to 90 percent of the world’s emerald market, and that it’s one of the most biodiverse countries on the planet. The tour, which takes place twice a day in English and runs on donations, starts and ends a few blocks from the city’s main square, Plaza de Bolivar, and the historic restaurant La Puerta Falsa, established in 1816. Here, we can’t resist some more ajiaco, plus another Bogotá classic: hot chocolate with cheese. You put the wedge directly into the drink and eat it with a spoon once it melts. Strange, yes, but also strangely delicious.

Tuesday, 9:30 am: A Site to Behold

My son has just licked the wall of a cathedral – but here, an hour north of the city at Catedral de Sal, it’s acceptable behaviour. That’s because the entire Roman Catholic church, hundreds of feet below ground in a salt mine, is constructed out of, you guessed it, salt. Visitors enter this astonishing place through a long, narrow tunnel. A dim, winding path leads to various naves, Stations of the Cross and sculptures of angels aglow in blue and purple lights.

Tuesday, 2:30 pm: The Last Lunch

We’re late for lunch after spending too much time at Bitâcora, an appointment-only design studio that hosts modern art exhibits and sells its own line of textiles in addition to having a hand in innovative projects around the city. (They created the branding for Câscara, which produces single-use biodegradable dishware out of rice husks and corn.) Luckily, our table is still waiting for us at Leo, the highly lauded restaurant from Chef Leonor Espinosa. A wholehearted celebration of Colombian ingredients – the map on the menu traces their origins – the 14 petite but beautiful dishes are a fitting way to end our time in this multifaceted place.

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Cityscape

The Best Art You Haven’t Seen in Miami and Bogotá

Galleries on the verge. A Cindy Sherman right in your hotel. You can brave the crowds (and the parties) of an international art festival or schedule around it, but don’t overlook the galleries, museums and installations that keep these art capitals abuzz year round. We’ve gathered insider tips on how best to explore the scene from Four Seasons team members on the ground.

If you examine the original architecture of the storied Surf Club, now part of
Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club, you might spot some similarities to the Bass, Miami’s cutting-edge contemporary art museum. Though both have been expanded and renovated, their original structures were designed by acclaimed art deco architect Russell Pancoast in the 1930s. The parallels don’t end there. Much of the art on display inside The Surf Club was created by artists whose work appears, or has appeared, at the Bass.

 

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“The primary exhibition for this season is from Italian photographer Paola Pivi, who has two pieces on display,” says Gabriela Navarro, the Head of Creative at the Hotel. “One of them, an alligator roaming through whipped cream, was actually conceived of here.” Last year, the Bass exhibited works by Ugo Rondinone, and a painting from his Target series remains on display in the Hotel’s Marybelle Penthouse Suite. “We have a fabulous collection of contemporary art at the Hotel,” Navarro says. “I don’t think very many people know this, but we have a Sterling Ruby and a Cindy Sherman as well.”

Several prominent private collectors in Miami have art on view in spaces open to the public. “You have the Rubell Family Collection, the Margulies Collection at the Warehouse and the de la Cruz Collection,” Navarro says. “ICA, the Institute of Contemporary Art, where multiple collectors display their works in one space, opened last year.”

Or you could take a boat tour, she says. “Some collectors have large pieces from prominent artists displayed in their gardens on Indian Creek Island, right across from The Surf Club. So if you’re water bound, you’ll see beautiful works from artists like Richard Serra, Ugo Rondinone and Alexander Calder.”

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Both Four Seasons Hotel Bogotá and Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina offer exclusive passes to BARCÚ (Bogotá Art and Culture), a festival in the city’s La Candelaria neighbourhood that’s an ideal complement, or alternative, to ARTBO. (The two take place concurrently every October.) Four Seasons guests get a private tour guide and VIP access to exhibitions and workshops that span art, music, dance, film and food.

 

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Widely considered the art capital of Latin America, Bogotá is home to more than 100 galleries. In addition to the renowned art festivals, devote a day or two to browsing the city’s San Felipe, La Macarena and Quinta Camacho neighbourhoods. One gallery in particular not to miss: FLORA ars+natura, which offers studio space and residences to artists creating works with themes of nature and the Earth. It was established in 2015 by José Roca, a former curator of Latin American art at the Tate in London, who returned to his hometown to open it.

 

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“It’s an independent space for contemporary art in San Felipe,” says Paula Gamboa, Four Seasons Director of PR and Marketing Communications. “The area is known for its working-class roots and mechanical engineering businesses; it had no galleries at all prior to the arrival of José Roca.” Back at either hotel, your art tour continues: Both properties feature modern art from Colombian artists like Leyla Cárdenas and Vicky Neumann.

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Where will you seek inspiration next?

Cityscape

An Unforgettable Journey Through
Latin America

The eerie beauty of the Galápagos Islands, the vibrant flavours of Bogotá, the rich traditions of Buenos Aires: Experience the wonders of Central and South America as part of the newest Four Seasons Private Jet journey. We invite you to spend 16 blissful days (February 9–24, 2019) taking in the very best of five destinations – Miami, Costa Rica, Buenos Aires, Bogotá and the Galápagos Islands – including behind-the-scenes experiences curated by our experts just for you. You’ll travel in style and comfort between extraordinary locales aboard the Four Seasons Private Jet, with Italian leather flatbed seats, Ghurka cabin bags and personal tablets for each passenger. Whether you’re a foodie, an adventurer, an aesthete or all three, you can customize every offering to fulfil your travel dreams.

“A big part of what we offer on our private jet trips is exclusivity and access, the ability to do things you never imagined were possible,” says Javier Loureiro, Director of Guest Experience for the Four Seasons Private Jet. “We handle the logistics and create the types of experiences that will make for treasured memories.” Although many details of this particular expedition have yet to be divulged, here are a few of our favourite moments – soon to be yours.

WORLDS OF FLAVOUR

Begin your journey in Miami with a private dinner at the lavish Villa Casa Casuarina, former home of the late fashion designer Gianni Versace. The Miami manse was built in 1930 for the scion of the Standard Oil fortune. (Note the expertly manicured garden and showstopping gold-plated pool.) Need more Latin flavours in your life? Cruise Little Havana with the help of a local guide, who’ll lead you to the most authentic Cuban foods the neighborhood has to offer.

In Costa Rica, you’ll eye the sky with Franklin Chang Diaz, a native of Costa Rica and a former NASA astronaut. Gaze at the brilliant stars dotting the southern sky through a powerful GPS-guided telescope, and then feast on a meal that blends astronomy with gastronomy. “Your dinner that evening is catered by Four Seasons with an out-of-this-world tasting menu that includes cocktails infused with actual meteorite dust,” Loureiro says. Try dishes like cantaloupe and watermelon “molten sun” gazpacho, steak served with a space rock–infused sauce, or lime caviar “stars” – all inspired by Chiang Diaz’s time in orbit.

Caffeine connoisseurs will adore exploring Bogotá, Colombia, where you’ll learn about the complexities of one of Colombia’s major exports, coffee, from the pros at Hacienda San Alberto, a third-generation family farm. You’ll also take an expert-led tour through Paloquemao Market, a go-to shop for local chefs since the 1940s thanks to the fresh-picked produce. Don’t miss the edible cactus and indigenous fruits, such as the plum-like borojó, harvested in nearby rainforests.

On the jet itself, the onboard chef carefully accommodates all your culinary preferences, from haute cuisine to comfort food. After all, this is the trip of a lifetime and food and beverage is a piece of that.

Four Seasons Resort Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica

CONQUER ISLANDS, PLAINS AND FALLS

After centuries of natural isolation and careful preservation, the remote Galápagos Islands are home to an incredible variety of marine species. During your four-night chartered cruise aboard the Silver Galápagos, you’ll likely spot sea lion pups frolicking on Floreana Island and huge sea turtles sunning themselves on white-sand beaches. Kayak along the coast and encounter manta rays and colourful fish, and then follow an inland trail on Santa Cruz Island past saltwater lagoons in search of the land iguanas that inspired Dragon Hill’s name. Return to the ship to recharge with a soothing massage.

In Costa Rica, you can don a harness and helmet and whiz over rainforest canopies and valleys via zip line, getting a macaw’s-eye-view of the adjacent Pacific Ocean. Be sure to keep a lookout in the treetops for sloths, which sleep an average of 15 hours per day, an inspirational sight while on vacation.

We take guests to the falls, tour privately with expert guides for a few hours, have lunch and get back to Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires in time for dinner. – Javier Loureiro, Director of Guest Experience

Near Buenos Aires, pay a special visit to Estancia la Bamba de Areco, one of the oldest ranches in Argentina, to watch local gauchos show off their horsemanship, guiding their sturdy mounts through the paces and skillfully tossing boleadoras in the air. Then join the gauchos for a traditional Argentine barbecue on the ranch property, where the oldest building on site – a former carriage house – dates to the 1700s.

One of Loureiro’s favourite activities? The day trip from Buenos Aires to Iguazú Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its astounding 275 waterfall drops. “Without our jet, this trip would take at least a couple of days and require an overnight stay at the falls area,” he says. “We can do it all in the same day, as we fly guests to the falls, tour privately with expert guides for a few hours, have lunch and get back to
Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires in time for dinner. All you have to do is step aboard the jet and enjoy.”

Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires

AN ARTFUL ESCAPE

“I always ask myself questions when looking at different activities or options for our trips,” Loureiro says. “Can we make this private? Can the experience be personalized?” For art and design lovers, that often equates to insider access. Take a backstage peek at Buenos Aires’ 1908 Teatro Colón opera house – among the greatest concert venues on earth, on par with the Vienna State Opera and Milan’s Teatro alla Scala. Expert-led tours will give you the goods on Bogotá’s Museo Botero, with its Picassos and Dalís, or of the innovative galleries of Miami’s Design District.

You can dine in the presence of magnificence, too. “We always love showcasing iconic cultural institutions for our special dinners,” Loureiro says. “In Bogotá, we’ve arranged a festive dinner in the Museo Del Oro. We’ll have exclusive access to the museum, and then sit down to a dinner surrounded by one of the largest collections of gold artefacts in the world.” Admire the still-covetable ancient earrings and gold jaguar figurines in the gilded collection.

One of the best parts of the Four Seasons Private Jet journey is coming home to Four Seasons hotels after your outings. For example, in Buenos Aires, you may spend the day shopping your way through the “Paris of South America,” but you can return to Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires for a signature spa treatment, combining the natural antioxidant properties of red wine and therapeutic massage choreographed to the beat of tango music. Partly housed in an early 20th century belle époque–style mansion, the Hotel also welcomes you to its inviting outdoor pool, garden terrace and E-Lounge –perfect spots to relax before launching the next leg of your trip.

Four Seasons Hotel Bogota

Once you’ve discovered these Latin American destinations, consider other
Four Seasons Private Jet itineraries for 2019. Snorkel with blacktip lagoon sharks in Bora Bora and take a day trip to the Taj Mahal on the Timeless Encounters trip. Or enjoy a hot-air balloon ride over the Serengeti, learn samurai sword moves in Kyoto and indulge in pampering spa treatments under the stars in the Maldives with International Intrigue. By taking advantage of the Four Seasons Private Jet Experience, you can explore the world as never before.

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

See the world in a whole new way.

Cityscape

Inside Bogotá’s Burgeoning Café Culture

Colombia’s coffee has long set the standard for quality, since the first beans were planted in the 16th century and exports began in the 1800s. But until recently, it was nearly impossible to get a good cup in Bogotá.

Lately, Colombia’s capital city has experienced exponential growth, sparking a cultural revitalisation. Experimental theatres, art galleries, restaurants, nightclubs and trendy boutiques began percolating in neighbourhoods like the fine-dining Zona G, the nightlife-filled Zona Rosa and the upscale 93 Parque. And that growth is now expanding to coffee shops, vibrant new spots to fuel up for deep conversation or a night on the town. Finally, it’s possible to find excellent Colombian coffee – in Colombia. Why did it take so long?


Zona G, Bogotá

The rise of the local roast can especially be seen in Bogotá’s Zona G neighbourhood, where cafés are joined by restaurants and shoppes.

The problem was everyone else’s love for the country’s coffee: Nearly 90 percent of Colombia’s beans were being exported. From October 2013 to October 2014, more than 10.8 million 60-kilo bags were consumed outside Colombia, of a total production of 12.1 million bags.

The beans left behind were of the poorest quality. And the traditional method of brewing didn’t help – scalding the beans with too-hot water until all that’s left is a burnt, watery brown liquid often called tinto. On Bogotá streets, coffee vendors sell small plastic cups of this brew, heavily sugared, for around 1,000 pesos (US$0.35).

 

 

A new roast

Happily for locals and visitors alike, things are changing fast. First, in 2002, came the Juan Valdez Café coffee shops, which are to Colombia what Starbucks is to the U.S. – a chain of cafés serving perfectly acceptable coffee that raised the bar on tinto.

Then, to target an emerging new breed of higher-end coffee drinker, the company opened Orígenes de Juan Valdez Café, a high-design concept café. Patrons take a seat on the rooftop deck and order a Sierra Nevada French press whilst gazing down at Zona G. The area’s couple of square blocks are packed with popular restaurants such as El Cielo (molecular gastronomy), Bruto (Spanish Basque cuisine) and Criterión (Colombian ingredients meet French techniques).

Four Seasons Hotel Bogota

And now, more-creative spots are eclipsing chain shops. Walk around Bogotá today to find a handful of standout independent cafés where devotees handcraft long blacks and lattes that rival the best coffee houses in New York or London. With their modern design, rows of AeroPresses and bearded baristas, these places may look as if they’ve been transplanted from Brooklyn.

But there’s a distinction that makes the experience here even better: The beans are exclusively Colombian, steeped in Bogotá’s heritage and sourced from micro-lots all over the country.

Cafés in Bogotá

Azahar


Azahar coffee shop, Bogotá

Often referred to as the Container Café, Azahar is dedicated to serving local brew to a community of coffee aficionados.

In the 93 Parque neighbourhood, a great place to grab lunch and people-watch, a shipping container painted slate grey now houses Azahar, one of the rising stars of this new Colombian coffee movement. Nearby you’ll find a variety of boutiques such as local jewellery designer Mercedes Salazar, and an independent theatre, Cinemanía.

Bourbon Coffee Roasters


Bourbon Coffee Roasters, Bogotá

The sleek, modern Bourbon Coffee Roasters also feels warm and inviting, thanks to its location in a Victorian-style home in the Quinta Camacho district.

Bourbon Coffee Roasters, owned by Paola Laguna and Jose Alberto Rosero, is a sleek wood and glass café with a peaceful enclosed garden. It’s located in Quinta Camacho, a hub of trendy shops and restaurants that draws some of the city’s chicest for live music and multi-course meals.


Bourban Coffee Roasters menu

To complement a cup of delicious coffee at Bourbon Coffee Roasters, order from the selection of light breakfast and café fare.

Devoción


Devoción, Bogotá

Devoción serves 17 varieties and offers five preparations: espresso, siphon, pour-over drippers, French press and Kyoto cold slow drippers.

On busy Carrera 7, Devoción – which recently opened an outpost in Brooklyn, a true sign that a “scene” has emerged – sports marble countertops and antique bottles on wooden shelves. It also produces world-class coffee, made in Kyoto-style cold slow-drippers and siphons.

Your coffee tour of Bogota

The best part? Each of these cafes are within a quick walk or ride of Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogota and the soon-to-debut Four Seasons Hotel Bogota.

 

Colombian beans


Devoción roasting coffee beans

These local cafés have one major thing in common: a single-minded dedication to local sourcing to achieve the highest quality roast.

Bourbon buys from micro-lots in different areas of Colombia, such as Santander, Huila, Nariño and Cundinamarca. Varieties include Caturra and Castillo, and the beans are roasted on site.

Devoción buys directly from micro-lots in every coffee zone in Colombia. In 2014 alone, Azahar sourced coffee from more than 420 different Colombian farmers, all of whom processed the beans on their own land: de-pulping them, fermenting them overnight and drying them on wood beds.


Bogotá coffee plant

The fruits on coffee plants mature in 7 to 9 months and typically contain two flat seeds, which are the coffee beans. Tours of Colombian coffee plantations are available for visitors to see first-hand where and how coffee is grown.

These carefully farmed beans generally score above 86 points – a classification of excellent – on the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) “cupping” scale. They are noticeably sweet, clean and juicy, exhibiting unique terroir. Most of them, grown in partial or full shade, come from farms above 1,700 metres. (Higher altitudes usually yield better beans.)

It’s this attention to buying distinctive beans from small-holder farms – under 5 hectares (12 acres) of land – that characterises this new third wave of Colombian coffee.

Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogota

Behind the trend

What led to the demand that’s allowing a greater share of the best beans to remain in country? In recent years, more Colombians have travelled abroad and returned with a taste for fine espressos and lattes. Knowledge about roasting, brewing and barista techniques is a big part of this growth.


Azahar co-founder Tyler Youngblood says, “If specialty roasters like ourselves are buying coffee directly from farmers, cooperatives and growers’ associations, then milling, sorting, roasting, packaging and serving the product, we’re certainly not going to be changing the cost of a cup of coffee every day.”

Joshua Maidan, co-owner of Devoción, and Bourbon’s Laguna both give some credit to Starbucks for educating travelling Colombians and promoting a coffee culture. Another factor is the positive impact the new cafés have on farmers. Coffee farmers are largely at the mercy of the “C” market (coffee priced as a commodity), which almost all exporters and importers use to determine what farmers are paid. This number, however, has almost no relation to the actual costs of production. Being able to sell more coffee locally means less reliance on the international price.

I believe it’s predominantly about educating local consumers about the benefits of drinking better coffee, and how to taste the difference of a good cup. – Joshua Maiden, Devoción co-owner

“We can offer farmers stable prices that allow them to make a living and maintain the quality of their product,” Tyler Youngblood, co-founder of Azahar says. And with lower transportation costs, plus the benefit of fresher beans, consumers benefit as well.

A local movement


Bogotá view

Waking up to smell the coffee, indeed. This is a country just beginning to enjoy its own best product – and the chance to start sharing it with visitors.

“The domestic consumption of Colombian coffee is on the rise, in large part spearheaded by specialty roasters,” Youngblood says. “Regular roasted coffee sales are the highest in over a decade, and premium coffee sales have been growing by as much as 10 percent. Growth as high as 20 percent is expected for specialty coffee retail, as more and more people here are drinking coffee away from home.”

This means that locals are filling the new breed of cafés. Youngblood says that just 10 percent of Azahar’s customers are foreigners. “Often the coffee or farm names on chalkboards in cafés in the United States, Europe or Asia are so foreign to your average customer that they don’t really mean much to them,” he says.

“In Colombia, it’s not that way at all. People are really moved when they discover that the coffee they’re drinking comes from an individual farmer in a part of the country they’re familiar with. There’s a growing pride in Colombian beans.”

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