Everything You Should Know About Port Wine

As I sit down to write this column I have at my elbow a highball glass of ice, dry white port and tonic.

What, you might ask, is this travesty? Port is red, surely? Port is a sweet, old-fashioned after-dinner drink – not a refreshing aperitif. And besides, who ever heard of mixing it with tonic?

Well, Licínio Pedro Carnaz, for one. Carnaz is the sommelier at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon, and this white port concoction is one of the offerings at the Hotel’s Ritz Bar.

“It’s not well known,” he says, “but [it’s] one of our suggestions as an aperitif, and our guests get very surprised at it.”

The drinking of after-dinner port, vintage port, has been a ritual of the English cultured classes for centuries. In these less formal times, though, it’s a tradition that’s quickly evolving.

Millenials don’t have as many preconceived notions about port, so much more is possible. – James Tidwell, master sommelier at Four Seasons Dallas

“Today, the interest in port may not be the traditional ‘We’re going to open a 20-year-old vintage port,’ but [instead], in using port in different ways,” notes James Tidwell, Beverage Manager and Master Sommelier at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas.

“If you’re talking to millennials about a wine that needs 20 years to be at its best, then you’ve lost them. Millennials are drinking it in any way that’s attractive and affordable.”


White Port and Tonic cocktail at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

This White Port and Tonic is a modern twist on the traditional wine and is popular among guests at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas.

“But we do have a number of guests who are well-travelled and know wines from all over the world, and they tend to drink 10- and 20-year-old tawnies,” Tidwell continues. (Tawny port is long aged but in wood rather than the bottle, and has a nutty, mellow character.) “And baby boomers are drinking port in the more traditional styles – tawnies and LBVs [late bottled vintage, aged four to six years in wood] – after dinner and with desserts.”

Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

A port primer


Man swirling port at Graham's Port winery

Port wine’s popularity through the centuries can be attributed to its flavour, which is both stronger and sweeter than traditional table wine.

Port’s longstanding popularity as an after-dinner drink can be credited to its fortification: About halfway through the fermentation process, a dose of a neutral grape spirit known as aguardiente is added to the wine, both fortifying it and halting the fermentation before all the sugar has been converted to alcohol. The resulting wine is both stronger and sweeter than traditional table wine, and comes in several varietals:

  • Vintage port is made in tiny quantities in only the best years and bottled after two years in 550-litre (145-gallon) traditional oak barrels called “pipes.” It then ages for 20, 30, even 50 years.
  • Crusted port is a blend of different vintages, bottled young enough so it throws a sediment, like vintage port.
  • Tawny port, long aged but in wood rather than the bottle, has a nutty, mellow character.
  • Late bottled vintage (LBV) port, a single-vintage port bottled after four to six years in wood, offers some of the character of vintage port at a more modest price.
  • Ruby port, a blend of young vintages, is fresh and fruity but lacks the complexity of older versions.
  • White port is similar to ruby but is made from white grapes. It is best chilled, as an aperitif.

Preserving port history

Port has been produced since the late 17th century, and became popular in England when constant wars with the French cut off access to Bordeaux. The continuing English influence can be seen today in the prominence of brands such as Graham’s, Taylors, Churchill’s, Cockburn’s and Croft, all named for English founders, many dating back to the early 18th century. Members of the Taylor, Churchill and Graham families are still involved in the business today.

Many of these houses participate in an annual sailing race in the sleepy Portuguese town of Oporto (a three-hour drive from Four Seasons Lisbon) during the annual festival of São João (St John). The unusual barcos rabelos, emblazoned with their company names and logos, race upstream along the Duoro River – a nod to the route these boats once took to deliver the wine from the vineyards to the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia. With a flat bottom, no keel, and a long and heavy oar, these unwieldy boats are extremely difficult to control under sail.

“They were never designed as sailing boats, but we, in our infinite wisdom, use them as such, and as a consequence we sometimes have spectacular accidents,” says Dominic Symington of Symington Family Estates.

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

Evolving tastes

A century ago, English aristocrats may have imbibed only the best vintage port, but times have changed. Most in demand now, Tidwell says, are port coolers, chilled tawnies as aperitifs, and anything that’s experiential and accessible.

“Can people afford to drink mature vintage port on a daily basis? No. Can they go into a wine bar in Brooklyn and get a white port cooler? Yes. They can afford it, and it’s something they can understand.”

Adrian Bridge, CEO of The Fladgate Partnership, makers of Taylor’s, Croft, Fonseca and Delaforce brands, is seeing the same trend. “In the U.S., it’s the rapid growth in cocktails and punches, in on- and off-trade respectively, that has created the most excitement recently,” he says. “Barmen and mixologists are finding that port has a range of wonderful flavours that can be used in a number of cocktails.”

As drinking patterns change, port’s versatility and adaptability have become its strengths.

While he doesn’t sell much vintage port – the market for this rarity has always been Great Britain – Carnaz at Four Seasons Lisbon says the demand for tawnies and LBVs, in addition to remixes like the white port aperitif, remains steady: “We sell more LBVs because they are easier to drink, they are filtered [so there’s no sediment to worry about], they’re not so expensive, and they keep in good condition for a few days.”

Carnaz has observed another development in port drinking, one that would have shocked the practitioners of the old procedures. Now that Chinese people have discovered port – not surprising, he says, given their predilection for sweeter alcoholic drinks – “they like it especially with the Portuguese seafood dish arroz de marisco. It’s a very strange combination, but they love it.”

Your Journey Begins Here

Make sure your port tasting tour includes traditional varieties and new adaptations.

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13 of the Best Rooftop Bars in the World

When the weather is warm, rooftop bars and restaurants become playgrounds for city dwellers. Nights are hot, sunsets are radiant and drinks always taste better when sipped in the sky. But to make our list of the best rooftop bars in the world, these 13 hot spots had to offer more than dreamy views.

Paris: Les Ombres

Recommended by the Concierge team at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, this rooftop restaurant occupies the top floor of the Jean Nouvel–designed Musée du quai Branly in the 7th district, and is an easy jaunt from the Hotel. Take a tour of the museum’s exhibitions, or skip the culture and proceed directly to the celebrated menu of French classics. A restaurant for travellers and locals alike, Les Ombres boasts unmatched views of the Eiffel Tower from the terrace. Plan your experience around sunset to watch the Tower’s lights begin to glitter as the sun sinks below the horizon.

Singapore: 1-Altitude Gallery and Bar

1-Altitude Gallery and Bar is the grande dame of rooftop bars – the world’s highest al fresco bar sits atop the triangular One Raffles Place building almost 1,000 feet (304 metres) above Singapore’s business district. The 360-degree views look out onto the Singapore River, Marina Bay and twinkling cityscape, but with a sunken dance floor, small-plates bar menu and creative cocktail list, 1-Altitude is far more than just a viewing platform. DJs The Funkman and Leonard T man the decks most nights, so plan for drinks plus dancing.

Dubai: Mercury Lounge


On the rooftop of Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, Mercury Lounge offers more than its head-turning views of the Arabian Gulf, city skyline and Burj Khalifa. In-house attractions include a Champagne bar, shisha lounge, resident DJ and traditional majlis seating areas for the city’s glitterati. Happy hour kicks things off early, and the small-plates menu – with caviar, oysters and truffle duck parfait, naturally – sustains the crowds until the wee hours. The dress code is smart casual, but in Dubai that means your highest heels or sharpest button-downs.

New York City: The Skylark

Concierge David Harney at Four Seasons Hotel New York says The Skylark is an after-work favourite for a ritzy Midtown crew. Views are of movie-set New York, from the Empire State Building to the Chrysler Building and out to the Hudson River. Lauded New York mixologist Johnny Swet is behind signature cocktails like the spicy Jalapeto and the Skylark, an other-era concoction with gin, Saint- Germain and brandied cherry. This sky-high spot is only open to the public only during the week, so don’t wait until the weekend to visit.

Hong Kong: SEVVA

In a city with a thriving rooftop bar scene, the concierge team at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong recommends SEVVA, a crowd-pleaser with 360-degree city views atop the Prince’s Building in Central. Pronounced “savour,” the bar caters to imbibers both at night and during the day. Daytime patrons can enjoy afternoon tea and sweets, while night owls can expect a lively DJ and the occasional saxophonist.

Miami: Juvia


Hanging out on top of a parking garage might not sound like the most glamorous of nights, but this Miami rooftop hot spot does things differently. Recommended by the concierge team at Four Seasons Hotel Miami, Juvia is the creation of acclaimed architects Herzog & de Meuron. In the kitchen, alums of Nobu, Boulud and Ducasse dish up Peruvian, French and Japanese favourites with a 305 twist. The Miami Beach views make the perfect backdrop to an evening of libations.

Mumbai: AER

The jewel in the sparkling crown of Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, AER towers 34 storeys above the bustling Worli district and is one of few rooftop bars to be open year round. The sleek, modern décor takes its cues from the city’s superfuture skyline, on full display thanks to the knockout 360-degree views. Visit at sunset for one of the best views in Mumbai – and to secure your seat – or come during the late-night hours to gaze at the stars.

Istanbul: A’YA Rooftop Lounge

At A’YA Rooftop Lounge at Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, the city’s signature sights are on display. Admire the Hagia Sophia’s giant buttress, the Blue Mosque’s distinctive six minarets and the brilliant blue Bosphorus over a bottle of local wine. Ask the staff to treat you to a raki balik experience, a favourite way for locals to imbibe a bottle of their national drink (an aniseed liqueur) paired with seafood. A calm oasis in the middle of a hectic tourist area, this is not the spot to party until dawn. Go for a low-key evening spent appreciating Istanbul’s grandest treasures and the sounds of Old Town below.

Los Angeles: Perch

To be in with LA’s hip and handsome crowd, Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills Concierge Barbara Reyes recommends Perch. Located in Downtown LA, the 16th-floor rooftop bar has unmatched panoramic views of the buzzing neighbourhood plus classic Parisian cocktails, live jazz nights, ornate fireplaces and an oyster-shucking cart. On a hot day, try the Spicy Concombre, a combination of Greenalls Gin, St-Germain, lime juice, cucumber and jalapeño – refreshing with a touch of heat.

Beirut: The Roof

A 26th-floor gem atop Four Seasons Hotel Beirut, The Roof is the highest open-air lounge in the city and packs a punch with seasonal outdoor seating for 200, nightly live DJ sets and an Asian-inspired tapas menu. Not to mention that the bar offers pick-a-vista views of Beirut’s downtown, surrounding mountains, a nearby marina and the Mediterranean Sea. Expect to share a banquette with the city’s brightest, who know to book in advance for a seat at the window, dress way up and dance until the lights go on at 2:00 am.

Bangkok: ZENSE

With a heart-of-the-action location atop the CentralWorld shopping mall, ZENSE is a prime perch for admiring the neon lights of downtown Bangkok. The look is artfully futuristic, with high-design canopies over tables, vertical gardens and mood lighting across the mezzanine bar and outdoor dining areas. Better for sundowners than for a late-night party, the cocktail menu serves all the classics, plus fruity seasonal cocktails.

London: Forest Restaurant and Bar on the Roof

Forest Restaurant and Bar on the Roof is a seasonal pop-up on the top floor of Selfridge’s, one of London’s best-loved department stores. The rooftop restaurant is transformed each year, and the current urban forest features branches and fairy lights. Décor echoes the forager-focused menu, and there’s a secret garden with two “sheds” for cosy drinks or a group celebration. Book in advance to score a table during the popular afternoon tea service, and order a round of Rhubinis – a quintessentially English concoction with homemade rhubarb and sparkling local wine.

Doha: Nobu Doha


In a tri-level, 26,000-square-foot (2,415-square-metre) space resembling an oyster shell, Nobu at Four Seasons Hotel Doha is the world’s largest Nobu restaurant. Perched in the middle of the bay, the rooftop terrace has just 38 highly coveted seats. Claim your spot when the bar’s doors open at 6:00 pm, and settle in with an order of the 28 Punch – a decadent mocktail with fresh ginger and acai black. Sip on your drink and admire views of the Arabian Gulf and the yachts docked at the Four Seasons Marina next door. For a sweet treat to round out the night, try the raved-about caramelised vanilla cake.

Spring Cocktails With a Twist

One of the greatest rewards of travel – or reminiscing about a journey – is the engagement of the senses: New sights, sounds, smells and tastes come together to portray a destination in its fullness.

Wander along the beach in Punta Mita and listen to the waves lapping at the shore as you smell – and taste – the salty breeze blowing through your hair. Take a hike in the crisp mountain air of Jackson Hole and feel delicate snowflakes melt on your face, or the delicious steam of hot cocoa after a day on the slopes.

These are the types of flavours, scents and experiences that inspire Four Seasons mixologists. Add seasonal harvests from local gardens – think flowers, herbs and even mushrooms – and the result is spring cocktails that capture the spirit of global destinations.

Here’s a taste.

Lisbon: LX Purple Bloom


Recipe card for LX Purple Bloom cocktail

Every spring, Lisbon’s first jacaranda blossom serves as a sign that a new season has arrived; next, the city streets are lined with beautiful purple, violet and lavender. Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon celebrates the occasion with a jacaranda-themed cocktail.

In the months where the city flourishes into lavender, it seems only fitting that the cocktails at the Ritz Bar follow suit.

It was the violet view of the city from the terrace at the Ritz Bar that inspired the LX Purple Bloom, a refreshing mix of Portuguese Gin Nao, St-Germain liqueur, Pêra Rocha purée, grapefruit juice and a spritz of rose water.


Scottsdale: Tip of the Cap


Recipe card for Tip of the Cap

April showers bring not only flowers but also mushrooms to the Scottsdale area. In a surprising twist on the change of seasons, chefs at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North delicately infuse this local harvest with citrus and herbs to achieve a fresh, earthy taste.

Fruit and floral notes are predominant in springtime cocktail menus, but the rich umami aspect that mushrooms bring [is often] bypassed.

A variation on the traditional dirty martini, Tip of the Cap replaces olive brine with a porcini “tea” made of local mushrooms, herbs and lemon. That tea is combined with Stoli Elit vodka in a Sercial Madeira–rinsed rocks glass and garnished with a pickled porcini mushroom, a twist of lemon and a sprig of thyme.

Doha: Rose Gold Julab


Recipe card for Rose Gold Julab cocktail

Vast desert landscapes and a bustling, cosmopolitan city greet visitors to Doha. Tradition is not lost here; a thriving coffee house culture makes for unique opportunities to learn more about Qatar and the Middle East. It’s not uncommon to see locals adding rose water to their caffeinated beverages, lemonade or milk.

Rose water has a very distinctive flavour. It’s aromatic, which makes it refreshing in the hot sun.

At Four Seasons Hotel Doha, rose water is an essential ingredient in the Rose Gold Julab. Mixed with a simple syrup and vodka, served over crushed ice with mint leaves and rose petals, it makes a fine treat.

Seychelles: Hibiscus Shower


Recipe card for Hibiscus shower cocktail

Quintessentially tropical hibiscus flowers brighten your stroll around the grounds at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles. They’re a beautiful addition to the scenery – and they’re full of fresh, citrusy flavour.

In our tropical environment, we often have rain showers which make these beautiful flowers bloom.

The Resort’s Kannel Bar makes the most of that citrus flavour – and the abundance of blossoms. The flowers in its Hibiscus Shower cocktails are handpicked from the property grounds. Hibiscus iced tea, Cointreau, local Takamaka coco rum and pineapple juice combine for an unbeatable chilled drink.

Chiang Mai: Siam Honey Breeze


Recipe card for Siam Honey Breeze cocktail

In Northern Thailand, spring comes with plenty of rainfall. It can be seen in the lush green blankets of vegetation on the surrounding mountains, and tasted in the sweetness of Thai honey.

Thai honey is at its most delicate and delicious in April and May.

Thai honey isn’t the only local ingredient at its peak in spring. At Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, mixologists merge camomile-flower tea – brewed using fresh blossoms from the Mon Jam district – with local honey and Thai rum, lemon and ginger ale to create the Siam Honey Breeze, an original cocktail with a fresh perspective.

Editor’s note: While some of these spring cocktails may no longer be listed on the menu, most can be made upon special request.

5 Unexpected Tea and Coffee Cocktails Around the World

Encountering the unexpected during a journey is one of the many joys of travel. Imagine, for example, sitting in a rooftop bar in China – the country where tea drinking originated and remains a meaningful part of daily culture – and asking the bartender to recommend a local drink. Instead of offering something with tea leaves, as you might expect, you’re served a complex coffee-inspired cocktail with an equally enriching tie to Asian culture.

#CocktailQuarterly, the year-long initiative focused on cocktail trends, techniques and ingredients, turns its attention to tea and coffee cocktails. In celebration, mixologists at Four Seasons hotels and resorts around the world are shaking, stirring, steeping and serving drinks inspired by these classic brews – and working hard to eschew convention with their concoctions.

Here is a taste of the mixologists’ creativity.

Florence: Grog in Florence


Four Seasons Florence Grog Cocktail

The Grog in Florence cocktail is served in a teapot and topped with an edible flower for a beautifully elegant presentation.

 

Coffee is such an integral part of Italian culture that even the U.S. has adapted the Italian vocabulary for its favourite drinks. Whether it’s leisurely sipping cappuccino or a quick shot of espresso at the café before work, coffee is part of every true Italian’s morning ritual.

Excellent coffee is available in plenty at Atrium Bar at Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, but when creating his newest cocktail, Grog in Florence, Assistant Bar Manager Luca Angeli was inspired by the oriental flavours of lapsang souchong.

“It’s a different way to serve afternoon tea in a cocktail style.”
–Luca Angeli

This bright, citrusy drink is poured from a classic teapot and sipped from teacups. Ginger-infused rum, 23-year Zacapa rum and Amaro Nonino form the boozy base, while cranberry and lime juice along with house-made lapsang souchong syrup lighten up the drink with fresh top notes.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

Beijing: Kopi Luwak Martini


The art of drinking tea originally developed in China during the Tang dynasty, and hundreds of varieties are produced and enjoyed in that vast country today. However, Opus Lounge, the rooftop bar at Four Seasons Hotel Beijing, is getting creative with another caffeinated beverage.

Bartender John Cheng’s Kopi Luwak Martini is mixed with a rare Indonesian coffee, made from coffee cherries eaten and excreted by the Asian palm civet, a small mammal found in Southeast Asia. (Producers and connoisseurs claim that kopi luwak’s flavour is improved by the fermentation that occurs in the civet’s digestive tract.)

At Opus Lounge, bartenders use a Neapolitan coffee press filled with dry ice that diffuses the delicate coffee aroma while Kahlua and Malibu rum add the alcoholic element. The smoking cocktail is finished with an elegant dusting of espresso powder.

Four Seasons Hotel Beijing

Mumbai: Madras Café


Four Seasons Mumbai Madras Café Cocktail

While you may think tea reigns supreme in India, Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai is using South Indian coffee to create this unusually delicious drink.

Like China, India is a major tea producer, and Northeastern India is known for its large tea estates. Travel to the Southern region of the country, though, and you’ll find plenty of coffee. In Mumbai, business is often conducted over one of these brews, and each household has its own favourite blend or preparation of tea or coffee to start the day.

Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai embraces the city’s rich history of coffee drinking with the Madras Café. The cocktail, served at AER and San-Qi, combines South Indian–style coffee with curry leaf, passion fruit purée and pineapple juice to make a shaken drink that’s an unusual balance of sweet and bitter, spiked with Absolut vodka and served on the rocks.

Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai

Scottsdale: Two Birds With One Stone


U.S. Americans drink three times as much coffee as tea, but Assistant Manager Nick Padua at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North chose to create his latest concoction with organic tea. Inspired by the environmental extremes of the Sonoran Desert, Two Birds With One Stone is a drink that can warm you up on a cold desert night or leave you refreshed after a round of golf under the sun.

At Talavera and Onyx Bar & Lounge, the cocktail is served either hot or over ice, mirroring the desert’s hot days and chilly nights. The innovative drink pairs Rishi Tea’s organic loose-leaf camomile tea with Dewars White Label scotch, sweetened with local Sonoran honey and house-made orange marmalade. The tea-infused cocktail is brewed and served tableside with candied citrus rinds.

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North

Maldives: Kuda Coffee


Four Seasons Maldives Kuda Huraa Coffee

For an island treat in the Maldives, try the Kuda Coffee, which infuses both local and Asian ingredients.

While sai (a sweet tea) is a traditional beverage enjoyed by local Maldivians, Indonesian coffee and local ingredients are the staples for the Kuda Coffee cocktail at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa. A kopi toraja variety of coffee from the Sulawesi island of Indonesia is combined with fresh Maldivian coconut, kopi leaf and Sri Langkan arak that add local flair.

In honour of the Resort’s sundowner happy hour tradition, these stirred drinks will be available on a buy-one-get-one basis between 5 and 7:30 pm each evening at Sunset Lounge. Ask Chinnappan for a cocktail class, and he’ll teach you how to make the drink from scratch.

Editor’s note: While some of these coffee and tea cocktails may no longer be listed on the menu, most can be made upon special request.

Read more about #CocktailQuarterly trends, like spicy margarita recipes and spring cocktails.

Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa

Your Journey Begins Here

Select a destination and start exploring

Trending Now: Modern Salons from London to Dubai


Exchanging ideas at Salon London

A modern iteration of the traditional literary salon, Salon London organises monthly gatherings showcasing experts in the worlds of science, the arts and psychology.

In the fall of 2003, California teacher Toby Brothers moved to Paris for her husband’s job. For her, the romance of the move, the thoughts of idling away days along the Seine, were soon overshadowed by the realities of integrating herself into a new culture, learning a new language and settling into a new city. One evening, a chance encounter at a cocktail party led to an in-depth discussion of her passion for teaching and a favourite book—Beloved, by Toni Morrison—prompting a new idea. What do you do, as a literature teacher, to embrace your new environment in one of the world’s most cultured cities? Why, you set up a literary salon. This is Paris, after all.

Hotbeds of creativity and progressive ideas, salons are synonymous with the French Enlightenment. The salonnières most associated with the early days are women such as the colourful Madame Geoffrin, who ran arguably Paris’ most famous salon in the mid-18th century, hosting writers and artists. Women led many of the early salons in Europe, creating an important outlet for voices that otherwise might not have been heard. And women are often the catalysts in the current movement.

Today salons have had a renaissance, perhaps as a pushback against the decline of face-to-face human contact in our digital age. From poetry brunches to multimedia presentations in art galleries to scientific discussions in converted warehouses, these gatherings point to the universal need for personal interaction and mental exercise. They allow people to come together to increase their knowledge and hone their tastes through conversation and the exchange of ideas. Their mission is to allow debate, to stoke passion and to inspire.

“Part of my inspiration was Natalie Clifford Barney,” Brothers tells me, “another American expat who ran what was dubbed ‘the liveliest salon in Paris’ in the first half of the 1900s.” Brothers set up her own salon in Paris before moving again, this time to London. Now, her London Literary Salon is based in her living room, where patrons tackle such weighty authors as Joyce, Proust and Faulkner.

Salons are for the free exchange of any type of stories or ideas.

So, I tell myself, a salon is basically a book club. But I quickly learn that I’m oversimplifying: “We use the literature as a launch pad for deeper discussion,” Brothers explains. “It’s a means to an end rather than the end in itself. The literature is a road map to the bigger questions.”

My first lesson is learned: Salons are for the free exchange of any type of stories or ideas. Some salons marry a literary theme with a broader sense of culture or art. Inspired by an invitation to read from her then-in-progress novel at a SoHo art gallery, New York–based writer Vica Miller set up a multimedia salon in 2009. Her idea was to emulate the salons of 1920s Paris salonnière Gertrude Stein, with writers reading from new work amid contemporary art. “The multimedia component is important to me, as I love such synergies,” Miller says. “People connect on a different level because hearing a good story read aloud against a backdrop of amazing art is a transcendent experience.”

Other salons are completely removed from literature. I recently attended an event at Shoreditch House, a members’ club in a converted warehouse, organised by Salon London. The word “literary” doesn’t feature in its objectives of “Science, Art, Psychology.” Co-founder Helen Bagnall says, “People come from all disciplines and want community and intelligent entertainment.” So what’s up for discussion?

“In some ways, we’re what television should deliver,” Bagnall says. “If a salon works, the audience will hear something they’ve never heard before, pick up a new skill, and go away wanting to find out more.”

By the time the salon starts, some 50 people fill the room, with stools taken from the bar next door and standing room only. The Shoreditch House library seems more like a Lothario’s living room: huge velvet sofas, deep leather armchairs and faded Persian rugs. A zinc-topped table to one side forms the centrepiece of a makeshift but elaborate bar. David Nutt, a professor of neuropsychopharmacology, speaks on what medicines do to the brain. The subject: “The Truth About Drugs.” In the spirit of the salon, he sits, speaking in a conversational manner, inviting comments and questions. While it wasn’t a subject I would have expected for a salon, it was an insightful, witty, often challenging and thoroughly engaging affair, imbued with human interaction, laughter and the frisson of participation. I left energised, enlightened and intellectually stimulated. And I’d learned another lesson: Salons aren’t just a lot of people attending a reading or lecture. Even though modern salons may not be held in private sitting rooms and may be guided by a lecturer, the key is casual interaction and the exchange and growth of ideas.

London salons have become the vogue in recent years, and not simply for emerging writers. At the top of the list, playwright and journalist Damian Barr leads monthly events where established authors read from upcoming works and pitch ideas. The gatherings have gained such repute that they are now attended by the glitterati as well as the literati. Past sessions have featured the likes of David Nicholls, John Waters and Bret Easton Ellis. Barr has taken his literary salon abroad, too, holding events destinations like Istanbul. Which leads me to my next realisation: Modern salons aren’t held only in Paris, London or New York. (In fact, salons first developed in the Middle East.)

 

The trendy thing to do after iftar, the breaking of the fast, is to head out to various cafés for literary salons and open-mic reading nights.

The movement is gathering fresh momentum globally. Salons in the 21st century cross borders, languages and even the digital wall. In Dubai, amid a thriving arts and culture scene in the UAE, American expat, blogger and writer Danna Lorch has observed bibliophiles setting up their own discussion groups through Twitter and local literary festivals. “During Ramadan,” Lorch says, “the trendy thing to do after iftar, the breaking of the fast, is to head out to various cafés for literary salons and open-mic reading nights.” Here, the salon culture leans more towards poetry. It’s a tradition in the Middle East that dates back to the Middle Ages, with its recent incumbents led, in part, by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and his son, published poets who write in both English and Arabic.

Punch and The Poeticians, both run by poets, lead the new salon wave in Dubai. Punch is a short way of saying “poetry bunch.” Lebanese poet Zeina Hashem Beck organises the monthly event at BookMunch, a Dubai literary café. The Poeticians, founded in 2007 and also active in Amman and Beirut, is “an elastic entity welcoming anyone willing to share bits of their linguistic light with us in English, Arabic or French.” Both groups rely on Facebook for communication. So my next lesson, and perhaps the most surprising, is that yes, salons are about personal, often face-to-face, communication, but they aren’t forums for Luddites. Even if they develop as a reaction against the impersonal qualities of digital culture, today’s salons don’t distance themselves from the digital arena, but embrace it. Digital tools are encouraging salons to form and to grow: connecting people, distributing content, even offering salon events as podcasts.

Of all the salons around the world today, perhaps the Sunday Salon is the ultimate example of how salons are proliferating and reinventing themselves. Started in New York in 2002 by Alaskan Nita Noveno, the salon runs monthly events at Jimmy’s No. 43, a bar and restaurant in the East Village. Like many other salons, it was designed to encourage new writing and allow emerging writers to find an audience. It wasn’t long, though, before a counterpart group was set up in Chicago—and another in Nairobi. Thanks to Noveno’s use of the internet to encourage others to create similar groups, Salon Nairobi emerged in 2007 out of a partnership between Noveno and June Wanjiru Wainaina, founder of Kwani? Readings. Salon Nairobi has grown into quite the literary machine, publishing and distributing content, running festivals, offering tutelage, and making global connections.

This leads me to the most important thing I’ve learned about modern salons: In contrast to the aristocratic leanings of earlier salons, today’s groups depend on the principle of equality—of all opinions being valuable and up for discussion rather than attack. This latter point is something that’s often a lot easier to adhere to in face-to-face conversation; think of how much more tempting it is to dismiss an idea in, say, an online comments forum.

Literary salons have emerged for all manner of skill levels. Many offer a nurturing environment that novice writers may not find elsewhere. New York’s Pen Parentis, for writers who are parents, takes place in a hotel bar—with literary ambitions fuelled, presumably, by a much-needed cocktail. The Franklin Park reading series, held at the eponymous Brooklyn beer garden, features “emerging and established fiction writers, memoirists, poets and story-tellers,” highlighting “local talent and authors from around the world.” Lit at Lark showcases local authors in Brooklyn’s Lark café.

The environment may have changed, but the reasons for salons remain the same. “People get inspired,” says multimedia salon founder Miller. “Afterwards, writers have told me, they’ve gone back to their own writing desks to finish manuscripts in progress. Many have said they felt enchanted by the nurturing and creative atmosphere. New friendships are forged as people connect and have conversations on a deeper level, and a couple of writers secured an agent and a publishing deal after reading at the salon.”

The salonnière Madame Geoffrin would be proud.

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