A Personalized Wellness Retreat in Westlake Village

For two days at Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village, inspiring practitioners from this health-focused property alongside Costa Rica, Orlando and Mexico shared original healing therapies and modes of achieving physical and mental balance.

On a gray but promising Malibu morning, I emerged from the surf shivering in my wetsuit, loaded my 9-foot longboard into my car and did a Houdini-like ensemble change there, readying myself not for the drive back to Mid-City, Los Angeles, but for my very first trip to Westlake Village. I’ve called myself an Angeleno for 14 years, yet never once visited this centre of wellness – it seemed to me like a legend. But it is real, as I happily discovered from the moment I pulled up.


Cafe 970x540

I scanned the wide lobby – fresh off a recent renovation introducing a sunnier palette – and decided a fresh-baked muffin and kombucha from Stir coffee bar were the perfect way to kick off this mini wellness retreat for which wellness experts from
Four Seasons Resort Orlando, Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita, Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills and Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo had gathered along with those from Westlake Village. The idea? To get a tantalizing taste of new and beloved practices, treatments and therapies from these properties, and to look for such harmony and well-being in future travels.


Yoga On The Lawn 970x540

The walk to my first engagement took me through the awe-inspiringly spacious spa – at 40,000 square feet, it’s the largest Four Seasons spa – to the lush green Pagoda Lawn for Yin Yang Yoga. “Nowhere else in the world will you find this,” said Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita spa manager Paola Mexia, who captured our attention first with her flute, then with strong asanas that melted into release via restorative supine postures. “And the more sessions you take, the more benefit you take.”


Cranial Massage 970x540

The same could be said of the Sleep Ritual Massage I experienced next at the hands of master spa therapist Stephany Collins, from the expansive spa in Orlando. This custom therapy, created with Longeva sleep wellness expert Robert Michael deStefano, marries breathing, light stretching and precise touch therapies to induce a deep slumber. I floated in a space between waking and sleeping in response to the soporific botanical oils and tranquilizing massage Collins performed to clear the seven main sleep entrapments, including temples, jaw and third eye. (A souvenir DreamKit, including ritual guidebook and SleepCeuticals formulas, will let me imitate the routine at home.)

A bold green Solluna tonic by Kimberly Snyder – who has a juice and smoothie bar inside Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills – helped rouse me from my drowsy bliss in time for Costa Rica wellness ambassador Beto Peña’s cacao ceremony. Peña described the organic Costa Rican cacao as “a real piece of heaven,” infused with turmeric, cardamom and clove, and we sipped it from petite white cups placed beside our yoga mats. We followed in the footsteps of Bribri natives who for ages have used the potion to connect with the divine. Perhaps it was the purity of Peña’s intentions, or maybe the sage and crystals went to my head, but the self-consciousness I typically feel when faced with unbridled movement in public disappeared in this bright room. In his words, we “embraced the freedom of our souls, vibrating high through free movements, dance, breathwork and chanting.”


04 Kitchen Option

Next, Westlake Village resident lead dietician Diane Nepa kept our embrace of the natural world alive during her cooking demo in the shiny, stainless steel Wellness Kitchen. She made a strong argument for the inclusion of far more fruits and cruciferous veggies in my diet, and as I nibbled delectable chickpea bruschetta she made it seem easy. With modest doses of first-press extra virgin olive oil and wild-caught, not farmed, fish, she showed us the way with zucchini-basil soup, sautéed baby spinach, strawberry salad and tequila salmon.


05 Yoga Beach

The following morning, decked in Alo Yoga ensembles and appreciating the mist that hovered over Malibu’s waves and caramel sand, Peña opened our hearts with his Yoga of 4 Elements – a fusion of philosophies from the Toltecan people, yoga, qigong and tai chi, paying homage through asanas to fire, water, earth and air. The activation, he said, “improves the energy flow in the human body and helps to balance organs and emotions, and performing it in front of the ocean improves all the benefits due to the presence of all the elements.”


06 Beachlunch

Breakfast was served at Thorne Family Farms as we sat atop Moroccan-style cushions around a low table bursting with blooms. It proved to be an additional showcase of the Westlake Village chefs’ ability to spin fresh, nourishing ingredients into dishes that didn’t taste merely “healthy.”


07 Horse (1)

Fully satisfied, we drove up the road to the Healing Equine Ranch, where Westlake Village guests learn how horses’ energies and behaviour can positively influence their own. Expert Kiki Ebsen introduced this concept with her gorgeous mares and stallions, the practitioners ready to share a slow dose of therapy. One outcome of the last 24 hours was heightened mindfulness, and I felt my awareness and focus sharpen as I stood before a gray-flecked animal far more powerful than myself, breathing gently into his nostrils to say “hi,” and gaining unspoken permission to make eye contact and rhythmically stroke his neck.


Singing Bowl Gif

Moments like those led to a deeply felt ending to the retreat. Collins and Mexia joined their instruments of healing, Himalayan bowls and voice, respectively, to guide us in vibrational sound and Punta Mita Meditation, encouraging acceptance and balance. “Sound waves carry deepest through water,” Collins told us. “Therefore as we lay the bowls on the body the vibration messages each and every cell down to the deepest organs.” This tailored therapy left me lighter, renewed and ready for more surfing. After all, Collins said, a person’s psychological state dictates their result: “Vibrational sound is very intelligent therapy. It delivers exactly what you need.”

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Secrets of a Seychelles Digital Detox

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island sits alone on a remote coral atoll in the Indian Ocean, 1,600 kilometres (1,000 miles) off the coast of Africa. This is a place where you can truly unplug. Leave technology behind and stake out your spot along nearly 14 kilometres of pure white sand, wander the wilderness paths in search of giant tortoises or let lapping waves lull you into repose during an oceanside spa treatment.

Patrick Moreau of Muse Storytelling spent seven days on the atoll with his filmmaking crew and was astounded by its power to pull one into the here and now. Here, in his own words, are his suggestions for disconnecting from devices in order to reconnect with yourself and your surroundings.

Take It In

As you’re coming in on the chartered plane from Mahé, the main island of Seychelles, Desroches Island comes into view; you can see out your window that the Resort is the only thing on this lush, 6-kilometre-long stretch of paradise. The runway is essentially the porte cochère – the plane lands, and staff members are there to greet you. You step off the plane and drop into the lap of nature. Endless ocean to your right, forest to your left and this exquisite Resort directly in front of you – in the middle of nowhere.

 

 

Be Present

There is no cell service on the island, and the Wi-Fi only works when you’re in the Resort itself. So you become more intentional about using the connection – and gradually you use it less and less. Instead of waking up and looking first at your phone, you go outside to witness the sunrise. Instead of sitting at the bar scrolling through apps, you get to know the person making the cocktails. You just keep making decisions like this, and soon you’re not missing your phone at all; you don’t even want to pick it up.

Knowing that everyone around you is experiencing the moment fully as it’s happening makes it that much more poignant.

It’s a collective experience among guests. Where else can you go into a restaurant and not see a single person holding a phone? The sun is setting, and you’re looking out at the ocean across an infinity pool, and the food is world-class, and everyone is present. Knowing that everyone around you is experiencing the moment fully as it’s happening makes it that much more poignant.

Pet a Giant Tortoise

Giant Aldabra tortoises are indigenous to Seychelles and roam freely around the island. At 120 years old, one in particular, named George, is thought to be Desroches’ oldest inhabitant. When you see this massive shell that you thought was a rock get up and start walking, it’s just unbelievable. They can be 1.2 metres (4 feet) long and weigh 250 kilograms (550 pounds) – you can’t prepare yourself for that kind of size and scale. You can reach out and pet George, and even feed him an apple. The whole thing brings a sense of childlike awe.

 

 

Follow the Sun

My crew and I very quickly became attuned to what the sun was doing. Without even trying, we would wake up with the sunrise. Every room is a stand-alone villa and each has its own private plunge pool, so every night I’d have a swim underneath the stars. It became this relaxing ritual, and I later discovered that everyone on the team was doing the same thing. It’s so spectacular that you’re just compelled to take it in.

 

 

Ride a Bike

Each villa comes with two gorgeously designed single-speed bikes. You can go anywhere on the island – it takes about 25 minutes to ride from one end to the other – and there are no cars in sight. You can stake out your own spot in the sand and not see a single person all day. Or if you want a picnic at a certain place and time, the staff will arrange that. You simply arrive at the designated location, and a basket and umbrella are waiting for you.

You can stake out your own spot in the sand and not see a single person all day.

In day-to-day life we’re always on to the next thing before finishing the first, and exploring the island is the complete opposite. You stop when you want to stop, and you never know what you’ll discover. I saw a turtle swim up to the beach, dig a hole, lay its eggs and then swim back to the ocean. There is so much unadulterated nature, it’s incredible. It makes you feel like you’re a part of something bigger.

Heed the Healing Waters

During the Sound of the Waves massage, the therapist rolls an ostrich egg filled with hot baobab seeds over your body. Not only is it a truly relaxing sensation, but it also mimics the sound of the ocean. This all happens in a small private villa on the beach that’s tranquil, bright and beautiful. Massage is known to be relaxing, but elements like these, coupled with the lapping ocean waves, create an experience far more transcendent.

Take Home a Story

When you’re in a place this incredible there’s an urge to capture everything you see with a photo, to preserve the moment and share it with the world. But every time I did that, I noticed this huge disparity between the photo I took and what I was seeing. A photo simply cannot capture what’s unfolding in front of you. My experience was so much richer once I put down my phone and surrendered to the magic of the island. If you focus on the moment, cultivating memories and stories instead of images, you’ll return home with something so meaningful it stays with you for years to come.

 

 

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Why More Travellers Are Embracing
the Joy of Missing Out

The 16th-century castle town of Kanazawa was supposed to be a gem. As soon as my train from Tokyo glided into the station, I dashed to Kenroku-en, touted as one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens, to photograph the winding streams and immaculately manicured pine trees.

Then off I sped to the samurai quarter of Nagamachi, with its clay walls and mysterious courtyards. The 18th-century Omi-cho market brimmed with the latest colourful catch from the Sea of Japan, as well as diners queuing up for kaisen don, a bowl of rice brimming with fresh sashimi and fish eggs.

 

Jomo Kanazawa City

Kanazawa’s attractions include the famous garden Kenroku-en and the samurai district Nagamachi.

But how could I waste time waiting in line when I had to run to a suburb to watch artisans hammer out decorative gold leaf, the city’s claim to fame? There was so much to see.

I was overwhelmed.

Travel used to be my panacea for boredom, sadness or whatever ailed me. Each trip left me inspired and invigorated. But lately I was finding myself anxious on the road (“Will I see everything I should?”) and regretful after trips (“What did I miss?”). I was having a traveller’s version of this millennium’s epidemic, FOMO: fear of missing out.

Each of us has only so many days on this planet. Can we really blame ourselves for wanting to do as much as we can manage?

In the journal Computers in Human Behavior, University of Oxford behavioural scientist Andrew Przybylski blames social media for the “pervasive apprehension that others might be having rewarding experiences from which one is absent.” Stunning shots of, say, wild elephants in Thailand on your friend’s Instagram feed can jolt you with wanderlust, and the double-edged sword of social media means you, in turn, can be the envy of that friend when you post about a Golden Triangle cave he missed.

How could I have fallen so low? I remembered the time I found myself in a bar with final-year MBA students who were trying to impress one another. “You haven’t experienced Machu Picchu unless you’ve walked the whole Inca Trail,” said one, to which another responded, “Well, you really haven’t hiked until you’ve done Kili.” Then another, for the win: “I’m planning to do Everest before graduation.”

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5 EXPERIENCES WORTH TAKING YOUR TIME FOR

No matter where you are around the globe, you can find a moment to immerse yourself in your surroundings and arouse your senses with Daily Discoveries by Four Seasons.

Odysseus didn’t do Thrinacia any more than Charles Darwin did the Galápagos. And I bet you never would have caught Jack Kerouac, martini in hand, starting a story with “When I did Mexico City . . .”

Completing a number of tasks, no matter how rarefied or Herculean, doesn’t entitle us to stake a claim with such finality. Yet people do it all the time because of a sense of urgency. The real race isn’t against other travellers; it’s against the clock. We’re lucky to live in an era when a jet can whisk us from a coffee farm in Kona to the splendour of Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia. We can swim with manta rays in the Maldives, then catch a show in London’s West End later that weekend. Each of us has only so many days on this planet. Can we really blame ourselves for wanting to see, touch, taste and do as much as we can manage?

I knew I would get no Facebook likes, but this moment of beauty reminded me why I keep hitting the road.

No wonder the idea of a bucket list caught on like wildfire and travellers began compiling their own 1,000 places to see. The trouble is, there’s something about lists that can turn the most exciting adventure into a chore. That’s where I went wrong in Japan. With my overeager plan, I ended up reducing a vibrant, endlessly discoverable place into a soulless to-do list.

Luckily, I found my salvation there as well. While I was scurrying from Kanazawa’s modern art museum to the geisha district of Higashi Chaya, a sudden rainstorm forced me to take refuge. Without an umbrella, I huddled under a stone arch. The small shrine it marked wasn’t on my map, and there was no signage to tell me the name. I watched the temple’s red flags flutter as a small fountain murmured its story. Pine needles collected raindrops, each watery pearl a universe unto itself.

I knew I would get no bragging rights or Facebook likes, but this moment of calm, unanticipated beauty reminded me why I’m compelled to keep hitting the road. The rain eventually stopped, leaving the air full of sweet petrichor. I would miss my next appointment. I wasn’t in a hurry.

Jomo Higashi Chaya Old District

A rainstorm in Higashi Chaya district inspired the author’s new approach to travel.

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A Picture-Perfect Austin Tour – Plus What Your Phone Can’t Capture

There’s no shortage of shareable moments to be had in Texas’ quirky capital. What with street murals, the ever-changing skyline and restaurants serving up fare as photogenic as it is delectable, many of the best snaps are within walking distance of Four Seasons Hotel Austin, which is even more camera-ready these days thanks to a recent renovation.

Four Seasons Hotel Austin

We tapped Four Seasons staffers for insider tips. Here, their recommendations on what to see, do, eat and shoot on your next Austin getaway – including a 1916 Italianate villa and the best bratwurst in town – as well as the experiences photos can’t do justice to.

 

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1. South Congress Avenue

This pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare, just a stroll across Congress Bridge from
Four Seasons Austin, is full of insta-worthy spots. “From the funky murals to the street performers, there truly is nothing else like it,” says Assistant Guest Services Manager Blaire Roberts. While most gather – even stand in line – for photos in front of street art that reads “I love you so much,” we also love the “Willie for President” mural, a storey-high tribute to Willie Nelson, one of Austin’s favourite musicians, on the side of clothing boutique Stag Provisions. The capitol building and skyline, captured from a South Congress crosswalk, compose a stunner in square form.

Outside the Frame

South Congress is one of Austin’s top shopping streets. Here you’ll find ByGeorge, which carries top brands like Marni, Saint Laurent and Stone Island. Across the street, jeweller Kendra Scott, who got her start in the Lone Star State capital, displays her colourful baubles in a freshly opened flagship store with a café and an outdoor mural.

2. Central Library

There’s a lot more to snap than bookshelves at the new Central Library, a Lake Flato–designed building that’s already at the heart of Austin’s evolving identity. Newcomers stand in wonder –with camera phones at the ready – in the atrium, where gravity-defying bridges and staircases connecting the building’s six storeys conjure scenes from Hogwarts. Travelling with kids? Don’t miss readings in the children’s wing, which has a toy room and educational computer games.

Outside the Frame

“Stick around for lunch or a cocktail at the Cookbook Café,” says Executive Assistant Christine Bloemsma. The airy restaurant on the library’s second floor has floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor patio. The fun part: Every dish on the menu comes from the celebrated chefs’ cookbooks that can be borrowed from the library.

 

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3. Lady Bird Lake

Whether you’re walking or jogging along the water’s edge, the hike and bike trail around Austin’s Lady Bird Lake – known to locals as Town Lake – is one of the best places to people-watch. While some of the waterway’s most photogenic spots are steps from Four Seasons Austin, the trail’s east side, expanded in 2014 to the tune of $26 million, sees fewer cameras. Its contemporary overwater boardwalks afford striking skyline views.

Outside the Frame

Want to get out on the water? Stop by Live Love Paddle, just south of the hike and bike trail’s boardwalk, to rent kayaks or Austin’s preferred mode of water-bound transport – stand-up paddleboards.

 

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4. Clark’s Oyster Bar

A polished nautical theme is well executed throughout this neighbourhood restaurant. Waiters sport Taylor Stitch Oxfords and striped waist aprons, and the dinnerware is a replica of the U.S. Navy’s mess hall china. You’ll want to snap pictures of the oysters, flown in daily from both coasts, and even the bread plate – sourdough served with Maldon salt and slices of bright red radishes – before diving into the Gulf red fish, served with a smoked caper and paprika vinaigrette. Request a front terrace table, shaded by a striped yellow awning that bears the restaurant’s nautical coordinates.

Outside the Frame

Around the corner from Clark’s you’ll find the flagship for Outdoor Voices, an activewear brand that got its start here in Austin and now has shops in New York’s SoHo and Georgetown in DC. Browse leggings, running shorts and tops that look as fitting in a coffee shop as they do mid-marathon.

 

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5. Ellsworth Kelly’s Austin

This adobe-style sanctuary at the Blanton Museum of Art, on the edge of the University of Texas at Austin campus, matches Houston’s Rothko Chapel in vision and civic significance. “It’s the only building Kelly ever designed, and it stands as the ultimate presentation of his love of light and colour,” says Hotel Concierge Steven Beasley. No two pictures of the serene interior space are alike thanks to contemporary stained-glass windows that reflect, glitter and silhouette, depending on the light and the weather.

Outside the Frame

Book and film lovers can’t miss a trip to the University of Texas’ Harry Ransom Center, where drafts and manuscripts by writers such as James Joyce and Norman Mailer are preserved and exhibited. The centre is also home to a 1455 Gutenberg Bible.

6. Laguna Gloria

This 1916 Italianate villa is now an extension of the Austin Museum of Art (AMOA). The waterfront grounds are dotted with sculptures by the likes of Tom Friedman and Wangechi Mutu, many of which make a whimsical addition to any photo. “Don’t miss the guided tour about the original owner, Clara Driscoll,” says Assistant Guest Services Manager Blaire Roberts.

Outside the Frame

“While you’re in the area, take a drive up to another scenic spot, Mount Bonnell,” Roberts says. It’s a short hike to this Hill Country lookout, and you’ll be rewarded with views of the river and the growing downtown skyline.

 

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7. Forever Bicycles

Pedal one of the Hotel’s complimentary cruiser bikes to document this installation, a towering piece by Ai Weiwei. “Something of an optical illusion, the 32-foot-high [9.75-metre] artwork includes nearly 1,200 bikes and is meant to represent a part of Weiwei’s everyday life and culture in China,” Concierge Elise Longueve says. To many Austinites, the work has an added meaning, honouring the city’s passionate bike culture.

Outside the Frame

Pop into Alta’s Café, just down the hill from Forever Bicycles, for a post-ride smoothie or glass of wine. The eatery’s expansive porch, a launch pad for crew teams, overlooks Lake Austin.

 

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8. Banger’s Sausage House and Beer Garden

Housed in a pair of historic buildings, this popular beer and brat house has a snap-worthy backyard with social picnic tables under strings of twinkling lights. Beer aficionados will also appreciate the suds selection: “I always order a beer I haven’t tried before,” says Marcus Knox, who drives the Hotel’s house car. “There are more than a hundred on tap, so that’s not as hard as it sounds.”

Outside the Frame

Banger’s is located on Rainey Street, a popular neighbourhood for nightlife where residential bungalows have been converted into bars and restaurants. Start the night off with an old-fashioned at Half Step, just two doors down from Bangers.

 

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9. The Austin Bats

Austin has the unusual distinction of being home to the largest urban bat population in North America. Over 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats live under the city’s central Congress Bridge, and flood out above an army of iPhones at dusk from March through November. You won’t be the only person posting a picture of this phenomenon, but you can avoid the crowds by jumping on an evening paddleboat tour and taking in the show from the water.

Outside the Frame

Head back to the Hotel for an cocktail en suite. Your bartender will roll in the property’s margarita cart and shake up your drink sofa-side. There’s no effort required on your part, but you do have to answer one important question: Salt, or no salt?

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City at dusk

A Week Well Spent in Bogotá

Globally inspired restaurants, world-class museums, a buzzed-about design scene and plenty of neighbourhoods ripe for exploring – there’s a lot to like about Bogotá, not least its contagious energy. If you’re seeking inspiration for an itinerary, here’s how my family and I tackled the South American city on our last visit.

Friday, 9:30 am: The Best View in Town

It’s difficult to grasp the sprawl of Bogotá until I see it from the top of Cerro de Monserrate, where the altitude is a breathtaking 3,152 metres (10,341 feet). Those who want to earn their view can hike up the hill; others, like us, opt for the toddler-approved choice: a ride on the funicular. Eventually we tear ourselves away from the panorama to look inside the 17th-century church – pilgrims come to it to prostrate themselves before the Altar of the Fallen Christ.

From here, it’s a quick drive to La Candelaria, the colourful historic centre, to visit cultural institutions like the popular Museo de Oro, whose thousands of ancient gold artefacts are glimpses into a pre-Columbian world of extravagance. In an odd juxtaposition, there’s the Museo Botero; Fernando Botero is known for his paintings and sculptures of corpulent figures, many shown from the back.

Friday, 3:00 pm: A Meal to Remember

Ready to be refuelled, we collapse into our seats at lunch-only Prudencia, a light-filled restaurant where Chef Mario Rosero stops by each table to say hello. Luck is on our side: Our 2-year-old son is passed out in his stroller, and he remains so throughout the duration of the leisurely affair. Rosero’s menu changes daily and stars local ingredients in dishes like the melt-in-your-mouth beef rib served with creamed corn and sautéed mustard leaves. Make sure to order the rustic homemade bread, so good we pack the rest to go.

Saturday, 8:30 am: The Hidden Gem

Despite its location right in the middle of the city, the tiny Quinta Camacho neighbourhood feels more like a charming village than part of a bustling metropolis. It’s known for its distinctive architecture – brick Tudor-style houses have been transformed into boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and bakeries such as Brot, where we plot our day over flaky croissants.

On our list of stops: Wilborada 1047 Bookstore, which will make you wish for independent bookshops everywhere; Ba Hué, a concept boutique where men’s and women’s fashions from more than 30 designers are displayed like works of art; and Casa Riegner, a respected gallery that champions contemporary Latin American artists. Our “eat and drink” list is ambitious as well: Guerrero, a casual new sandwich shop; Siete Cabras, for pizzas cooked over firewood; and cocktails at Huerta Coctelería Artesanal, a buzzy bar that incorporates fruits and vegetables into drinks like the Mezcalitico (made with Mezcal Montelobos, elixir of blackberry and ginger, basil, and lemon).

Sunday, 10:00 am: Caffeine and Crafts

On the recommendation of Juan Diego Lopez Verano, a front desk agent at
Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogotá
, we get a lesson in Colombian coffee at Catación Pública, an educational café in the historic neighbourhood of Usaquen. After sampling beans from three of the country’s 20-plus growing regions, we stroll the Usaquen flea market, open on Sundays only. Learn from our mistake and save suitcase space so you won’t have to leave the traditional woven bags, organic soaps and other handmade crafts behind.

Sunday, 2:30 pm: Escape the City

It takes about 40 minutes of winding up a single-lane mountain road to reach the countryside town of La Calera, a worthwhile half-day trip from the city. After browsing the vendors in the main square and picking up some honey candies and mangosteens for later, we settle at an outdoor table at El Palmar del Café, a no-frills restaurant that serves what I’ve been told is the best ajiaco in the area. This traditional soup – made from different kinds of potato, shredded chicken, half an ear of corn and a mild herb called guasca – is served with avocado and thick cream to stir in. It’s rich and hearty, but somehow doesn’t leave us too full to sample treats from the bakery nearby, Postres Olivar. My personal favourite: the classic almojábana, a dinner roll–shaped bread made from corn flour and a soft, sweet cheese.

Monday, 11:00 am: Downtown Exploration

An hour into our Bogotá Graffiti Tour our guide, Jay, has already imparted a wealth of local knowledge – and not just about the incredible street art that seems to cover almost every surface. We’ve learned that Colombia is responsible for 70 to 90 percent of the world’s emerald market, and that it’s one of the most biodiverse countries on the planet. The tour, which takes place twice a day in English and runs on donations, starts and ends a few blocks from the city’s main square, Plaza de Bolivar, and the historic restaurant La Puerta Falsa, established in 1816. Here, we can’t resist some more ajiaco, plus another Bogotá classic: hot chocolate with cheese. You put the wedge directly into the drink and eat it with a spoon once it melts. Strange, yes, but also strangely delicious.

Tuesday, 9:30 am: A Site to Behold

My son has just licked the wall of a cathedral – but here, an hour north of the city at Catedral de Sal, it’s acceptable behaviour. That’s because the entire Roman Catholic church, hundreds of feet below ground in a salt mine, is constructed out of, you guessed it, salt. Visitors enter this astonishing place through a long, narrow tunnel. A dim, winding path leads to various naves, Stations of the Cross and sculptures of angels aglow in blue and purple lights.

Tuesday, 2:30 pm: The Last Lunch

We’re late for lunch after spending too much time at Bitâcora, an appointment-only design studio that hosts modern art exhibits and sells its own line of textiles in addition to having a hand in innovative projects around the city. (They created the branding for Câscara, which produces single-use biodegradable dishware out of rice husks and corn.) Luckily, our table is still waiting for us at Leo, the highly lauded restaurant from Chef Leonor Espinosa. A wholehearted celebration of Colombian ingredients – the map on the menu traces their origins – the 14 petite but beautiful dishes are a fitting way to end our time in this multifaceted place.

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