7 Ways to Work Out With a View in California

Who needs a stair machine when there’s a trail with a view to conquer? Why toil on a treadmill when you can surf the Pacific? California, blessed with diverse landscapes and pleasant weather year round, provides a natural backdrop for activities that cater to an exceptionally fit population. On your next visit to San Francisco, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles or San Diego, stay active while taking in each city’s distinctive personality and sights during these creative workouts.

Surfing in San Diego

Four Seasons Residence Club Aviara, North San Diego, overlooks South Ponto Beach, which keeps surfers stoked with its cool breaks and wide strip of sand. The Concierge arranges your transportation, wetsuit, surfboard or boogie board, and two hours of individual instruction so even novices can try surfing in this popular spot.

Skyline stretch in L.A.


A rooftop yoga class at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles Beverly Hills

Rise far above Beverly Hills’ tree-lined avenues and offer a salutation to the sun as it rises with views of the iconic Hollywood sign and downtown LA’s skyline. The 17th floor helipad of Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills hosts private rooftop yoga, led by renowned West Coast wellness experts. For extra adrenaline, the Hotel partners with training company Blue Clay Fitness, which counts a number of celebrities among its clientele, to offer group fitness classes on the helipad too.

Hit the trail in the Santa Monica Mountains


A hiker treks along the Backbone Trail in the Santa Monica Mountains.

Make sure to pack your hiking boots when visiting Westlake Village. This year’s completion of the Backbone Trail offers visitors and locals alike a 67-mile (108-kilometre) uninterrupted path traversing the Santa Monica Mountains’ sandstone peaks and canyons. The trailhead is a 20-minute drive from Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village. A half-century in the making, this ambitious project connects two state parks – Point Mugu in Malibu and Will Rogers in Pacific Palisades – through mountainous terrain that will test your fitness and endurance.

Water sports paradise in Malibu


Yoga on paddleboards near Malibu offers two workouts in one.

Less than a 30-minute drive to the Pacific Ocean and under an hour to Malibu, Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel provides an easy springboard to maritime adventures like kayaking and paddleboarding. “Paradise Cove in Malibu has great water sports,” says Honor Echlund, the Hotel’s Assistant Chef Concierge. The Concierge can also arrange a trip to Marina del Rey – just 30 minutes away, it’s home to the largest man-made marina in the United States – where you can paddle, surf or even join a yoga class on a stand-up paddleboard.

Coastal climb in the Santa Barbara mountains


A hiker absorbs the views near Rocky Pine Ridge in the Santa Barbara mountains, not far from the Cold Spring Trail.

Life doesn’t get much healthier – or beachier – than in Santa Barbara, the stylish coastal town 100 miles north of Los Angeles.

“I feel so fortunate to live here,” says Chef de Partie at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara, an avid runner who has completed 54 marathons. “Santa Barbara is a mecca for runners and cyclists, and you get to enjoy amazing trails year round.”

Bruno recommends hitting the nearby Cold Spring Trail, a path beloved by both hikers and cyclists that combines a variety of terrains leading to majestic views of the Pacific Ocean and Montecito Peak. The hiking trail loops alongside waterfalls and a bubbling creek as it rises from 600 to 1,200 feet (183 to 366 metres). Steep in some places and gently sloped in others, this woodsy walk beats any treadmill or stationary bike regimen.

Heights of San Francisco


The spiral staircase at San Francisco’s Embarcadero Center is one of many climbing opportunities that combine exercise with public art.

No need to limit yourself to a stair machine in a city full of picturesque inclines, such as the residential Outer Sunset neighborhood’s swirly mosaic stairs that reward with vistas of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Pacific Ocean and the San Francisco cityscape. For another scenic walk, climb Lyon Street’s 244 steps that link gourmet enclave Cow Hollow with stately Pacific Heights. Both are within a few miles of the Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco.

Poolside workout in Palo Alto


The pool at Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley at East Palo Alto.

Even when you’re in the world’s tech capital, it’s good to get outside and enjoy some fresh air and fitness with an on-site al fresco workout. If you’re here for just a quick business jaunt, the Hotel makes it easy to stay active and bask in the sun. Surrounding the rooftop pool at Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley at East Palo Alto are dedicated fitness cabanas where you’ll find stationary bikes and weight bars.

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pool at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills

Wellness Meets Tech: The Most Advanced Four Seasons Spa Offerings

Travel and wellness shouldn’t be mutually exclusive. Although travellers may be busier than ever, new spa and fitness technology allows you to maximise your wellness efforts. And when you only have one hour to spend at the spa or fitness centre, you need to make the most of it.

“Our guests are very discerning and savvy,” says Pat Makozak, Senior Spa Director for the Americas. “We understand the challenge of carving out time for oneself and are committed to giving our guests the very best benefit in the amount of time they have given us.”

Technology assists us in meeting our guests’ needs with more intensity and in a shorter period of time. – Pat Makozak, Senior Spa Director for the Americas

Whether you’re staying at Four Seasons for work or leisure, these treatments use the latest spa technology to ensure that you look and feel your best each day.

Repair wrinkles with the help of plankton and Icelandic barley

In posh Los Angeles, the Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills offers a DNA Facial created by Cosmetic and Facial Plastic Surgeon Dr Ronald Moy. During the treatment, DNA-repair enzymes derived from marine-based plankton and organic barley from Iceland are combined with the oxygenating OxyGeneo+ machine to help the body repair sun damage and wrinkles while boosting collagen production.

“DNA-repair enzymes act like a seamstress, finding damaged DNA and cutting it out,” Moy explains. “It’s a gentle treatment that leaves you fresh and glowing instead of red and raw. The oxygenating effect allows active ingredients to penetrate deeper than they would on their own.”

The treatment begins with a gentle exfoliation that allows the Regeneration Serum to seep into every pore, preventing age and maturity spots while plumping and hydrating the skin.

Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills

Measure body composition in minutes

The Sports Club at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas is home to Well & Being, an integrative wellness spa that encompasses nutrition, fitness and massage therapies in a holistic approach to health.

Begin your journey with a personalised Fitness Prescription based upon results from the BOD POD – the gold standard in measuring body composition used by NFL teams for 10 years.


Sit in an egg-shaped pod in your bathing suit or sportswear for just a few minutes; there’s no need to submerge yourself in water as with other body composition analysis techniques. You’ll then receive a personalised wellness plan (including recommendations for fitness classes) that is designed to whip your body into its best shape.

Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

Experience the most comprehensive physical you’ll ever have

There’s also a BOD POD at Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village, California, used as one component of both The Ranch 4.0 programme and Integrative Lifestyle Physical.


A four-day retreat, The Ranch 4.0 was created in partnership with The Ranch at Live Oak in Malibu and applies a holistic approach to wellness, incorporating nutrition, massage and fitness. The programme consists of 8 to 10 hours per day of rigorous exercise (mountain hikes, exercise classes, yoga), as well as a daily 1,400-calorie vegetarian diet.

The Integrative Lifestyle Physical, which is an optional add-on to The Ranch 4.0, offers a comprehensive medical diagnostic check-up. The full-day experience includes in-depth laboratory analysis, diagnostic testing, fitness and nutritional consultations and energy healing therapies.

“[The Integrative Lifestyle Physical] takes an annual doctor’s check-up to a new level with a full day of testing and consultations from the medical team at the California Health and Longevity Institute, with a breadth of experience in preventative health care,” says The Ranch 4.0 co-founder and CEO Alex Glasscock.

“When paired with our Ranch 4.0 programme, guests leave with a renewed body and mind, along with a personally tailored health and fitness programme to support a vibrantly active and healthy lifestyle,” Glasscock says.

Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village

Soothe the skin with sapphires and supersonic speed

Another non-invasive but highly effective tool for younger-looking skin is the PURE TDA (transdermal application) Facial at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. Finely ground sapphires and crystals exfoliate the skin before the TDA does its work.

After the manual microdermabrasion preps the face for one of four serums, which are applied at supersonic speed and frequency with a computer-controlled applicator, the serum’s nanoparticles penetrate deep into the dermis. The result? Tighter and more nourished skin.

While the spa treatment might sound intense, the 60-minute facial is not at all painful. Instead, the massage technique improves oxygen and blood circulation for an immediate hydration boost.

“Guests see the results – supple, glowing skin – instantly from the first treatment. It is especially popular before weddings.”
— Luisa Anderson, Regional Director of Spa

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay

Burn up to 700 calories in 20 minutes

Get a head start on your beach body in less than 30 minutes at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea with quick and painless i-Lipo laser treatment technology. The low-level lasers signal a lipase enzyme to break down triglycerides into fatty acids and glycerol, reducing cellulite and tightening skin.

Between 500 and 700 calories are liberated in a 20-minute session, but to keep them off, it’s recommended to complement the treatment with exercise.

“Dieting is often challenging, and I feel the i-Lipo gives you a running start,” Makozak says. “When you begin to lose weight, it becomes encouraging to continue on. Also, unlike some other sculpting lasers that kill the fat cells and can damage the appearance of the skin, it mimics a natural response in the body.”

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

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13 of the Best Rooftop Bars in the World

When the weather is warm, rooftop bars and restaurants become playgrounds for city dwellers. Nights are hot, sunsets are radiant and drinks always taste better when sipped in the sky. But to make our list of the best rooftop bars in the world, these 13 hot spots had to offer more than dreamy views.

Paris: Les Ombres

Recommended by the Concierge team at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, this rooftop restaurant occupies the top floor of the Jean Nouvel–designed Musée du quai Branly in the 7th district, and is an easy jaunt from the Hotel. Take a tour of the museum’s exhibitions, or skip the culture and proceed directly to the celebrated menu of French classics. A restaurant for travellers and locals alike, Les Ombres boasts unmatched views of the Eiffel Tower from the terrace. Plan your experience around sunset to watch the Tower’s lights begin to glitter as the sun sinks below the horizon.

Singapore: 1-Altitude Gallery and Bar

1-Altitude Gallery and Bar is the grande dame of rooftop bars – the world’s highest al fresco bar sits atop the triangular One Raffles Place building almost 1,000 feet (304 metres) above Singapore’s business district. The 360-degree views look out onto the Singapore River, Marina Bay and twinkling cityscape, but with a sunken dance floor, small-plates bar menu and creative cocktail list, 1-Altitude is far more than just a viewing platform. DJs The Funkman and Leonard T man the decks most nights, so plan for drinks plus dancing.

Dubai: Mercury Lounge


On the rooftop of Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, Mercury Lounge offers more than its head-turning views of the Arabian Gulf, city skyline and Burj Khalifa. In-house attractions include a Champagne bar, shisha lounge, resident DJ and traditional majlis seating areas for the city’s glitterati. Happy hour kicks things off early, and the small-plates menu – with caviar, oysters and truffle duck parfait, naturally – sustains the crowds until the wee hours. The dress code is smart casual, but in Dubai that means your highest heels or sharpest button-downs.

New York City: The Skylark

Concierge David Harney at Four Seasons Hotel New York says The Skylark is an after-work favourite for a ritzy Midtown crew. Views are of movie-set New York, from the Empire State Building to the Chrysler Building and out to the Hudson River. Lauded New York mixologist Johnny Swet is behind signature cocktails like the spicy Jalapeto and the Skylark, an other-era concoction with gin, Saint- Germain and brandied cherry. This sky-high spot is only open to the public only during the week, so don’t wait until the weekend to visit.

Hong Kong: SEVVA

In a city with a thriving rooftop bar scene, the concierge team at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong recommends SEVVA, a crowd-pleaser with 360-degree city views atop the Prince’s Building in Central. Pronounced “savour,” the bar caters to imbibers both at night and during the day. Daytime patrons can enjoy afternoon tea and sweets, while night owls can expect a lively DJ and the occasional saxophonist.

Miami: Juvia


Hanging out on top of a parking garage might not sound like the most glamorous of nights, but this Miami rooftop hot spot does things differently. Recommended by the concierge team at Four Seasons Hotel Miami, Juvia is the creation of acclaimed architects Herzog & de Meuron. In the kitchen, alums of Nobu, Boulud and Ducasse dish up Peruvian, French and Japanese favourites with a 305 twist. The Miami Beach views make the perfect backdrop to an evening of libations.

Mumbai: AER

The jewel in the sparkling crown of Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, AER towers 34 storeys above the bustling Worli district and is one of few rooftop bars to be open year round. The sleek, modern décor takes its cues from the city’s superfuture skyline, on full display thanks to the knockout 360-degree views. Visit at sunset for one of the best views in Mumbai – and to secure your seat – or come during the late-night hours to gaze at the stars.

Istanbul: A’YA Rooftop Lounge

At A’YA Rooftop Lounge at Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, the city’s signature sights are on display. Admire the Hagia Sophia’s giant buttress, the Blue Mosque’s distinctive six minarets and the brilliant blue Bosphorus over a bottle of local wine. Ask the staff to treat you to a raki balik experience, a favourite way for locals to imbibe a bottle of their national drink (an aniseed liqueur) paired with seafood. A calm oasis in the middle of a hectic tourist area, this is not the spot to party until dawn. Go for a low-key evening spent appreciating Istanbul’s grandest treasures and the sounds of Old Town below.

Los Angeles: Perch

To be in with LA’s hip and handsome crowd, Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills Concierge Barbara Reyes recommends Perch. Located in Downtown LA, the 16th-floor rooftop bar has unmatched panoramic views of the buzzing neighbourhood plus classic Parisian cocktails, live jazz nights, ornate fireplaces and an oyster-shucking cart. On a hot day, try the Spicy Concombre, a combination of Greenalls Gin, St-Germain, lime juice, cucumber and jalapeño – refreshing with a touch of heat.

Beirut: The Roof

A 26th-floor gem atop Four Seasons Hotel Beirut, The Roof is the highest open-air lounge in the city and packs a punch with seasonal outdoor seating for 200, nightly live DJ sets and an Asian-inspired tapas menu. Not to mention that the bar offers pick-a-vista views of Beirut’s downtown, surrounding mountains, a nearby marina and the Mediterranean Sea. Expect to share a banquette with the city’s brightest, who know to book in advance for a seat at the window, dress way up and dance until the lights go on at 2:00 am.

Bangkok: ZENSE

With a heart-of-the-action location atop the CentralWorld shopping mall, ZENSE is a prime perch for admiring the neon lights of downtown Bangkok. The look is artfully futuristic, with high-design canopies over tables, vertical gardens and mood lighting across the mezzanine bar and outdoor dining areas. Better for sundowners than for a late-night party, the cocktail menu serves all the classics, plus fruity seasonal cocktails.

London: Forest Restaurant and Bar on the Roof

Forest Restaurant and Bar on the Roof is a seasonal pop-up on the top floor of Selfridge’s, one of London’s best-loved department stores. The rooftop restaurant is transformed each year, and the current urban forest features branches and fairy lights. Décor echoes the forager-focused menu, and there’s a secret garden with two “sheds” for cosy drinks or a group celebration. Book in advance to score a table during the popular afternoon tea service, and order a round of Rhubinis – a quintessentially English concoction with homemade rhubarb and sparkling local wine.

Doha: Nobu Doha


In a tri-level, 26,000-square-foot (2,415-square-metre) space resembling an oyster shell, Nobu at Four Seasons Hotel Doha is the world’s largest Nobu restaurant. Perched in the middle of the bay, the rooftop terrace has just 38 highly coveted seats. Claim your spot when the bar’s doors open at 6:00 pm, and settle in with an order of the 28 Punch – a decadent mocktail with fresh ginger and acai black. Sip on your drink and admire views of the Arabian Gulf and the yachts docked at the Four Seasons Marina next door. For a sweet treat to round out the night, try the raved-about caramelised vanilla cake.

The Ultimate California Road Trip

There is a life-size cottage dangling precariously over the edge of the rooftop of Jacobs Hall at the University of California San Diego, and it’s driving me crazy that I can’t get a closer look. It’s my own fault. The viewing hours for South Korean installation artist Do Ho Suh’s Fallen Star are on Tuesday and Thursday, and because I am in San Diego on a weekend, I have to settle for an exterior view of this unusual piece of public art.


Do Ho Suh's Fallen Star in San Diego

Do Ho Suh’s Fallen Star (2012) is part of the Stuart Collection at the University of California at San Diego. It challenges viewers to reflect on the idea of cultural displacement and their surroundings.

San Diego is my first stop on a sun-drenched California road trip, one that has been made all the better with the keys to a silver Ford Mustang, which over the next few days will take me all the way from right here in California’s southernmost city to San Francisco.

San Diego

This city is on the move. While residents remain fixated on a Southern California lifestyle unruffled by smog and congestion, San Diego’s downtown brims with cutting-edge food and nightlife. Petco Park, home to the San Diego Padres, has transformed the once sleepy East Village into a jumble of residential high-rises, and the charming neighbourhoods surrounding Balboa Park are abuzz with activity.

In Mission Hills, for example, I discover The Patio on Goldfinch, an elegant, open-air gem where friends and I toast one another with Goldfinch Mules, made with house-infused pineapple-and-vanilla-bean tequila, while sharing sashimi-grade ahi poke tacos and scallop crudo decorated with sliced kumquat. Afterwards, we duck into nearby Cinema Under the Stars, where the weatherproof retractable dome ensures the comfort of film lovers year round as they swoon over classic films like Casablanca and Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.


Salt roasted beet bruschetta at The Patio on Goldfinch

The Patio on Goldfinch serves dishes—such as Salt Roasted Beet Bruschetta, with cambozla blue cheese and rocket arugula—that create memorable dining experiences.

Huntington Beach


Huntington Beach Pier in California.

Known as a west coast surf mecca, Huntington Beach draws in visitors with the ideal waves and picturesque views along its famous pier.

As I inch suburb to suburb through Orange County, I’m listening to Lana Del Rey’s “West Coast” on repeat. Along the way, I stop at the spindly and picturesque Huntington Beach Pier, where cocksure surfers suit up and millennials play volleyball. Amid double strollers and amateur shutterbugs, I stop mid-pier to inhale the salty air.

Los Angeles

The City of Angels beckons to me with its tangle of strip malls, clogged freeways and a populace constantly in search of reinvention. However, none of this is on display in exquisite Rancho Palos Verdes, where twisty, scenic byways offer moments of tranquillity en route to LA. It’s here that I discover Wayfarer’s Chapel, a glass church that was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. It is an architectural jaw-dropper of unusual angles and geometric shapes. Alas, if I tiptoe any closer I’ll officially be crashing the wedding that is in process.


Lloyd Wright's Wayfarer’s Chapel

Tucked in a grove of redwood trees, Wayfarer’s Chapel was designed by Lloyd Wright and is a favourite for local weddings.

A mile west of downtown LA, I find another kind of respite at Wi Spa, a traditional Korean-style bathhouse where the lead guitarist of a certain legendary rock band and I are both taking a steam. In addition to its nirvana-inducing saunas, showers, nap rooms, and hot and cold tubs, family-friendly Wi also offers co-ed minerals saunas, an on-site deli, a fitness centre, and full-service massage, skin care and nail treatment.

Dinner brings me and a friend to Night Market + Song, a nondescript storefront in Silverlake that dishes out stellar Northern Thai street food dishes like fatty pig neck and Isaan-style catfish larb. Most dishes tingle with intense flavour and heat.

Santa Barbara

As Los Angeles fades away in my rear-view mirror the next morning, I decide my drive to San Francisco will bypass the spine-tingling twists and turns of Pacific Coast Highway in favour of the faster, but no less scenic, Highway 101. The first stop is languid Santa Barbara, where the bahn mi sandwich I order at the Lilliputian eatery Blue Owl provides the requisite fuel for the journey ahead.

The small Santa Ynez Valley city of Solvang proves an amusing diversion. Known as “Little Denmark,” the town is close to the edge of taking itself too seriously with its reliance on windmills, thatched roofs and gingerbread architecture, but it’s a worthwhile place to spend a few hours. Solvang is only a stone’s throw from kooky OstrichLand USA, a working farm that allows visitors to feed the big birds, whose necks look like palm trees swaying in the breeze and who happily snatch every bit of seed from your hands.


OstrichLand USA in Santa Barbara

Experience life on a working farm at OstrichLand USA by taking a guided tour of the property and feeding the ostriches and emus that call it home.

Palo Alto

Home to Stanford University, leafy Palo Alto has a studious vibe. My favourite attraction in the area is about 10 miles (16 kilometres) up the highway from campus. FiLoLi Gardens is an early 20th-century country estate with gardens stretching over 654 acres (265 hectares). The home itself is filled with English antiquities, but there really is no finer way to pass a few hours than to stroll the perfectly landscaped grounds.


Tulips in FiLoLi gardens

Stroll through beautiful blooms on FiLoLi’s 654 acre historic estate in Palo Alto. The property’s house and formal gardens were constructed in the early 20th century.

San Francisco

By sunset, the City by the Bay is within my grasp. I’m booked for a reunion with friends at Soma Streat Food Park, where I find the city’s nascent tech crowd swaddled in hoodies and noshing from delicious food trucks as the wind kicks up. There is stand-up comedy happening tonight, which is a nice touch. Another San Francisco treat new to me is Urban Putt, an indoor mini-golf course in the Mission where each hole offers players a dizzying Rube Goldberg machine for the ball. (Goldberg was born in San Francisco.) It’s a blast.


Indoor mini-golf at Urban Putt in San Francisco.

Stop in for fun at San Francisco’s Urban Putt—an indoor mini-golf course that will bring out the kid in everyone.

My journey comes to its conclusion literally at land’s end. During my last night in town, I find myself at Marla Bakery in the Outer Richmond, a gusty oceanfront neighbourhood that touches the mighty Pacific.


Marla Bakery in San Francisco

At Marla Bakery, snag a coveted seat at Sunday Supper and taste dishes passed down through generations of family cooks.

Every Sunday night, the restaurant is open only to the few who have secured a reservation in advance. They are seated at a single, communal table and treated to a five-course farm-to-table dinner that tonight is inspired by a rabbit’s last meal. Tonight over dinner, I share with friends my many adventures that have taken me from the Golden State’s southernmost city to its most famous peninsula—a trip that has perfectly captured the romance of the road.

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pool at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills

A Guide to Orange Wine


Orange wine

To craft an orange wine, white wine is skin-fermented in a qvevri, or citron-shaped clay vessel, resulting in dried-fruit notes with nutty and caramel aromas.

Aromas of apricot fruit tickle the nose, but a sip reveals heavier tannins, and a rich, almost velvety mouth-feel lingers. Not quite white and not quite red: Viniferous conundrum, thy name is orange.

“Orange wines are the new black,” says Shelley Lindgren, co-owner and wine director of San Francisco Bay–area SPQR and A16 restaurants. “The only problem is that they can be grossly misunderstood. There really is no definitive way to characterize orange wines, because they are essentially a white wine produced with a red-wine sensuality.”

Orange wines are the new black.

The definition of orange wines has been debated frequently at forums like this year’s RAW wine fair in London. Fundamentally, their classification derives not from the type of grape used but from the winemaking process. Orange wines are white wines that are skin-fermented like reds. But unlike red wines, which are fermented for a period of 10 days to one month, orange wines can be fermented from two weeks to seven months.

“Orange wines have the freshness of whites with the structure of reds,” says John Wurdeman, owner of Pheasant’s Tears winery, which has vineyards in the Kakheti and Kartli regions of the country of Georgia. “So they can be compared to both white and red wines, but they are their own genre.”

Georgia is considered the birthplace of orange wine. Referred to as the original winemakers, Georgians have used citron-shaped clay vessels, called qvevri, to make wine since 6000 BC. These vessels were lined with molten beeswax and buried in the ground to stabilize temperatures. Over time, as viniculture spread, qvevris were replaced with barrels, which gave way to stainless steel tanks. The exception: Qvevris are still used to make orange wines.

 

People who are looking for something new are really surprised by orange wines.

The unusual aging process, which extracts phenols, tannins and antioxidants, produces orange-tinged hues that range from golden honey to deep amber. The colour varies with the type of grapes used (Pinot Gris, Rkatsiteli and Grenache Blanc, to name a few), the length of time spent in skin fermentation, and the method of aging, says Jessica Bell, a certified sommelier and wine educator who has consulted for Georgian wineries. “This is the oldest way of making wine,” Bell says. “But people who are looking for something new are really surprised by orange wines.”

While they’ve always been the wine of choice within Georgia, this method of winemaking didn’t attract much interest elsewhere until Italian winemaker Josko Gravner visited Georgia in the early 1990s. He returned with some qvevris and made Georgian-style orange wines using Friuli grapes, thus drawing more attention worldwide to orange wines.

Besides Italy and Georgia, Slovenia and Croatia also make orange wines, and over the last five years, adventurous winemakers in the United States have gotten in on the action. “People making orange wines, by their nature, are more experimental,” says William Allen, winemaker and owner of Sonoma County’s Two Shepherds winery. Allen himself made orange wine from a blend of Roussanne and Marsanne grapes in 2011. He even makes an orange-style wine from a grey grape called Trousseau Gris—it looks like a rosé but tastes like an orange wine.

In the Willamette Valley of Oregon, Johan Vineyards winemaker Dan Rinke and winery owner Dag Sundby spent the spring of 2007 tasting Italian orange wines like Gravner and Radikon. “We kind of fell in love with them, and we were taken by their uniqueness,” Rinke says. “We make a Pinot Gris, so I suggested trying to do a little something different with it.”

Their trials have resulted in very different types of orange vintages. “The ’09 had a lot of lees in it, and it smelled like pumpkins,” Rinke says. “The ’11 and ’12 vintages have hints of baking-spice aromatics. We’re now starting to do a fraction of it with carbonic maceration [the fermentation of grapes in a sealed vessel full of carbon dioxide], and that tends to bring out more cinnamon and nutmeg notes.”

As a genre, orange wines tend to have dried-fruit notes like apricot and peach, as well as a lot of nuttiness and caramel aromas. “Orange wines are great to use in pairings,” says Emily Larkins, wine director at Craigie on Main restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts. “They’re amazing wines to use as a bridge between different elements on the plate.” Larkins says these wines work well with caramelized onions, nuts, cheeses and game birds, thanks to their richness in texture.

That tactile aspect turns some people off. “They’re wines that tend to showcase texture rather than fruit,” says Jared Hooper, LA-based writer turned sommelier. “Those who favour orange wines love the style, but detractors claim the uniqueness of the terroir and the grape is lost—that the elegance of the grape is masked by the winemaking process.”

Orange wine aficionados, however, believe winemakers are just beginning to explore this process, and the wines are cropping up in places such as Chile and New Zealand. “They’re not for someone who orders Sauvignon Blanc every day,” Bell says. “They’re for an adventurous wine drinker, someone who’s open to something new.”

Winemakers to Try

Pheasant’s Tears
Kakheti and Kartli, Georgia
The wines here are all farmed organically and vinified naturally, “with nothing taken away and nothing added,” says winery owner John Wurdeman.

Alaverdi Monastery Cellar
Telavi, Georgia
Orthodox monks continue to use an 11th-century wine cellar and traditional Georgian practices to produce their orange wines.

 

Complete your Eurasia journey at Four Seasons Hotel Baku

Pyramid Valley Vineyards
North Canterbury, New Zealand
“This biodynamic winery uses something like a qvevri, but they don’t bury it,” says U.S.-based wine importer Chris Terrell.

Gravner
Gorizia, Italy
Josko Gravner’s orange wines are some of the best-known in the world, but he prefers the term “amber,” and he does use sulphites to refine his wines.

 

Make it a Tuscan wine tasting tour and visit Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

Johan Vineyards
Willamette Valley, Oregon, U.S.
Drueskall, made from Pinot Gris, means “grape skin” in Norwegian. Winery owner Dag Sundby hails from Norway and exports his wines back home.

Two Shepherds
Santa Rosa, California, U.S.
Boutique Sonoma winemaker William Allen calls his skin-fermented wines Centime, after the French word for “cent.” Santé!

Make it a road trip and try the wine at Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco