Hong Kong’s Savoury Alchemists

Hong Kong’s bustling and inventive cocktail bar scene is gaining well-deserved international recognition, with seven of its drinking establishments making Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. Here are five standouts in the global city that tap into the savoury side of mixology.

Argo

Inside Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, ARGO—the property’s foundational cocktail bar—has always existed on the edge, taking risks and championing innovation. Under the tutelage of the bar’s recently appointed beverage manager, Jonathan Gabbay, the cocktail program continues that tradition while simultaneously celebrating the city, its culture, and its homegrown flavours. For example, the Hong Kong Punch features black tea and egg-tart foam, paying tribute to the city’s coffee and tea customs. The Dreamscape, by contrast, relies on fat-washed coconut tequila and hazelnuts, chestnuts, and tonka beans. “This menu,” says Gabbay, “is a reflection of the encounters, passions, and shared experiences we’ve lived as a team, told through meaningful collaborations and the incredible products and craftsmanship Hong Kong has to offer.”

Bar Leone

You wouldn’t expect to find an Italian cocktail bar in Hong Kong’s vibrant Central district, but that’s the intrigue of Bar Leone, an authentic osteria that recently claimed top honours on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. Founded by Lorenzo Antinori in 2023, the establishment feels lifted straight from Rome’s Trastevere neighbourhood and dazzles with captivating concoctions, such as Olive Oil Sours, Filthy Martinis ratcheted up with smoked olive brine, and Fig Leaf Negronis. “I enjoy balancing savoury flavours with others to create a compelling contrast,” says Antinori, “like pairing toasted corn flour with the fruitiness of pineapple or combining tomato with vermouth.”

Coa

Coa isn’t the only agave spirits–focused bar in Hong Kong—nor is it the first—but the Mexican-themed rathskeller is a pioneer in the city for its dedication to agave-centric cocktails. Here, south-of-the-border spirits take centre stage in savoury libations, where the bar’s founder, Jay Khan, orchestrates a symphony of umami-driven recipes that are as challenging as they are captivating. The Smacked Cucumber, for example, is a mezcal-based potion inspired by Chinese cucumber salad, while the clarified Bloody “Beef” Maria seduces with aromas of a summer garden but tastes of smoke and spice. “Savoury cocktails remain uncommon and consistently surprising,” says Khan, “and when done right, the rewards can be extraordinary.”

Gokan

Opened in 2024, Gokan is the handiwork of mixology master Shingo Gokan, who modelled the spot around the Japanese kanji (character) for the “five senses,” conceptualizing a cocktail menu that’s dedicated to five flavour profiles—sweet, sour, spicy, bitter, and savoury. Standouts include the Mapo Mary, a twist on a Bloody Mary with Sichuan-spiced Wagyu mapo tofu, and the Khun’s Tommy, a tom yum–inspired riff on a classic margarita. Just don’t skip the Watermelon Coffeezz, a provocative blend of gin, watermelon, light-roasted coffee, shiso, and clarified almond milk—all of which are infused with a touch of CO2.

Savory Project

Patrons of Jay Khan’s second, newer cocktail den in the city (opened with Ajit Gurung) will discover a destination that—as its name implies—focuses its mixology on savoury ideals. Balanced, layered, and complex, the drinks here are as enticing as their menu descriptions are enigmatic. Take the Pepper + Corn, a libation characterized as: mezcal, charred corn husk, cumin, tomato, peppers, MSG. It tastes of a chilled not-so-spicy hot-and-sour soup, and it’s emblematic of Hong Kong’s adventuresome culinary climate. “This approach won’t resonate everywhere,” says Khan, “but it excels in mature cocktail markets with established bar cultures and palates that appreciate flavours beyond the orthodox.”