{"id":96714,"date":"2015-02-18T16:45:40","date_gmt":"2015-02-18T21:45:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/admin-fsmag.paceinteractive.com\/?p=96714"},"modified":"2017-09-12T17:49:33","modified_gmt":"2017-09-12T21:49:33","slug":"four-seasons-mumbai-dabbawala-experience","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/taste\/four-seasons-mumbai-dabbawala-experience\/","title":{"rendered":"Exploring Mumbai With a Dabbawala"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"body_block_1\" class=\"body-block text-block body-block-article-content-block\">\n<div class=\"entry\">\n<p>The Mumbai train system is the lifeblood of this metropolis. It nourishes the city by pumping commuter trains full of citizens through its arteries to all of their destinations. More than 7.5 million commuters crowd its coaches every day, making this one of the busiest rapid transit systems in the world.<\/p>\n<p>On a humid winter morning, I arrive at Churchgate railway station, one of the system\u2019s critical nexuses. At any given moment, trains glide in and out of a dark, bustling train terminus, picking up and dropping off people from every tier of life in Mumbai, from office workers to students to merchants to executives. Standing with Valencia Albuquerque, Concierge of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/mumbai\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai<\/a>, I watch as tides of vibrant colours spill on and off of the trains and spread in every direction.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_2\" class=\"body-block body-block-single-image small-body-media\">\n<div class=\"fs-image\">\n<div class=\"fs-image-container\">\n                <picture class=\"article-title-image\">\n        <!--[if IE 9]><video style=\"display: none;\"><![endif]--><source srcset=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-636x431.jpg\" media=\"(min-width: 992px)\"><!--[if IE 9]><\/video><![endif]--><br \/>\n        <img decoding=\"async\"     src=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-636x431.jpg\"  class=\"attachment-mobile-large size-mobile-large\" alt=\"Two Mumbai dabbawalas carry their customers&#039; lunch pails\" \/>    <\/picture>\n<div class=\"caption\">\n<div class=\"caption-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"image-block-caption image-caption\">Mumbai\u2019s dabbawalas pick up fresh meals from their clients\u2019 homes each day before delivering the containers to their workplace in time for lunch.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"byline\">\n<p class=\"image-block-credit image-credit\">Photography courtesy Zachary Glassman<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<ul class=\"element-share\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/dialog\/feed?app_id=998607926923032&#038;display=popup&#038;redirect_uri=http%3A%2F%2Fmagazine.fourseasons.com%2Fclose.html&#038;link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;picture=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-facebook\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-twitter\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/pin\/create\/button\/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;media=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-pinterest\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_3\" class=\"body-block text-block body-block-article-content-block quote-below\">\n<div class=\"entry\">\n<p>As the sea of commuters begins to clear, I also notice passengers dressed head to toe in white and unloading assortments of cylindrical tiffin boxes. These are the city\u2019s <em>dabbawalas<\/em>, highly specialised workers whose sole task is to ensure that meals originating from homes all around Mumbai reach their owners safely at lunchtime.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_4\" class=\"body-block pull-quote body-block-tweetable-quote\">\n<p>The dabbawala system is a reflection of the Mumbai that surrounds it: incredibly organised chaos.                            <span class=\"attribution\"> \u2013 Zach Glassman<\/span>\n                    <\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_5\" class=\"body-block text-block body-block-article-content-block\">\n<div class=\"entry\">\n<h2><strong>More than a century of history<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>This unique system originated in the late 1800s, when there were very few restaurants in Mumbai, and fewer still to cater to a new class of commuting workers. As a matter of urgency and practicality, a new delivery system developed in which dabbawalas\u2014literally \u201ccarriers of boxes\u201d\u2014stepped into the breach to bring warm lunches to the workers in every family.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_6\" class=\"body-block body-cta large-body-media body-block-cta-small-body\">\n<div class=\"body-cta-container\">\n<div class=\"cta-text-container\">\n<h3>Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai<\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"cta-btn-container\">\n            <a href=\"https:\/\/reservations.fourseasons.com\/?hotelCode=BOM230\" data-owscode=\"BOM230\" class=\"btn btn-primary btn-small fs-booking-widget\">Book Now<\/a>\n        <\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_7\" class=\"body-block text-block body-block-article-content-block\">\n<div class=\"entry\">\n<p>Today, thousands upon thousands of deliveries are made to offices around Mumbai. The dabbawalas, part of a tradition that began about 125 years ago, are the packers and messengers for hungry office workers all over the metropolis.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Experiencing lunch in Mumbai<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>It was at Churchgate station that I met Dyaneshwar Paangare, whom I would be shadowing for the day through the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/mumbai\/services_and_amenities\/extraordinary_experiences\/lunch_like_a_local\/\">Lunch Like a Local Extraordinary Experience<\/a>, available exclusively through Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai. While I didn\u2019t actually assist the dabbawalas in the sorting and final delivery of their shipments\u2014several botched deliveries might have resulted if I had tried my hand\u2014I did gain understanding of this complex system and its various moving parts. The explanations from both Albuquerque and Paangare helped me appreciate the amount of work and precision required for the delivery of a single <em>dabba<\/em> (box).<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_8\" class=\"body-block body-block-image-gallery small-body-media\">\n<div class=\"fs-slideshow captions-open\">\n<div data-block=\"8\" class=\"fs-slideshow-container\">\n<div class=\"fs-image\" data-share=\"share-0\">\n<div class=\"fs-image-container\">\n        <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"  width=\"636\" height=\"431\"  src=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-men-lunch-pails-636x431.jpg\"  class=\"\" alt=\"Mumbai dabbawalas organize their dabbas\" \/>                    <\/p>\n<div class=\"caption\">\n<div class=\"caption-wrapper\">\n<p>Over the course of a single day, 5,000 dabbawalas work to deliver more than 200,000 tiffin boxes to Mumbai\u2019s work force.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"byline\">Photography courtesy Zachary Glassman<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"fs-image\" data-share=\"share-1\">\n<div class=\"fs-image-container\">\n        <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"  width=\"636\" height=\"431\"  src=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-preparing-lunches-636x431.jpg\"  class=\"\" alt=\"Mumbai dabbawalas preparing lunches outside Churchgate\" \/>                    <\/p>\n<div class=\"caption\">\n<div class=\"caption-wrapper\">\n<p>Outside Churchgate station, dabbawalas sort dabbas (containers) according to their final destination.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"byline\">Photography courtesy Zachary Glassman<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"fs-image\" data-share=\"share-2\">\n<div class=\"fs-image-container\">\n        <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"  width=\"636\" height=\"431\"  src=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-pail-636x431.jpg\"  class=\"\" alt=\"Dabbawala reading the coding on a dabba\" \/>                    <\/p>\n<div class=\"caption\">\n<div class=\"caption-wrapper\">\n<p>The dabbawala system relies solely on human processing, as each tiffin box must be read to determine where it\u2019s going.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"byline\">Photography courtesy Zachary Glassman<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"fs-image\" data-share=\"share-3\">\n<div class=\"fs-image-container\">\n        <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"  width=\"636\" height=\"431\"  src=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-pails-636x431.jpg\"  class=\"\" alt=\"Dabbas sitting on the street in Mumbai\" \/>                    <\/p>\n<div class=\"caption\">\n<div class=\"caption-wrapper\">\n<p>The ultimate exercise in organisation, the typical dabba changes hands at least five times before reaching its owner. <\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"byline\">Photography courtesy Zachary Glassman<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"fs-image\" data-share=\"share-4\">\n<div class=\"fs-image-container\">\n        <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"  width=\"636\" height=\"431\"  src=\"https:\/\/djdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/four-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-busy-street-636x431.jpg\"  class=\"\" alt=\"Mumbai dabbawala delivering lunches\" \/>                    <\/p>\n<div class=\"caption\">\n<div class=\"caption-wrapper\">\n<p>The system has been awarded the six sigma level of efficiency, meaning that roughly one mistake occurs every six million deliveries.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div class=\"byline\">Photography courtesy Zachary Glassman<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<ul class=\"element-share\" id=\"share-0\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/dialog\/feed?app_id=998607926923032&#038;display=popup&#038;redirect_uri=http%3A%2F%2Fmagazine.fourseasons.com%2Fclose.html&#038;link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;picture=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-men-lunch-pails-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-facebook\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-twitter\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a 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href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-twitter\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/pin\/create\/button\/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;media=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-preparing-lunches-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-pinterest\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul class=\"element-share hidden\" id=\"share-2\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/dialog\/feed?app_id=998607926923032&#038;display=popup&#038;redirect_uri=http%3A%2F%2Fmagazine.fourseasons.com%2Fclose.html&#038;link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;picture=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-pail-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-facebook\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-twitter\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a 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href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-twitter\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/pin\/create\/button\/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;media=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-lunch-pails-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-pinterest\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul class=\"element-share hidden\" id=\"share-4\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/dialog\/feed?app_id=998607926923032&#038;display=popup&#038;redirect_uri=http%3A%2F%2Fmagazine.fourseasons.com%2Fclose.html&#038;link=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;picture=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-busy-street-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-facebook\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/intent\/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-twitter\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/pin\/create\/button\/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fourseasons.com%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-admin%2Fpost.php&#038;media=https%3A%2F%2Fdjdo2py1q6zlg.cloudfront.net%2Fmagazine%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F02%2Ffour-seasons-extraordinary-experience-mumbai-dabbawala-busy-street-636x431.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><i class=\"icon-share icon-pinterest\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"slideshow-control-container\">\n                <button class=\"toggle-captions\"><span class=\"icon-chevron-up\"><\/span><\/button>\n            <\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_9\" class=\"body-block text-block body-block-article-content-block\">\n<div class=\"entry\">\n<p>From beginning to end, each meal changes hands at least five times. Every tiffin box has an alphanumeric code (some written more clearly than others) from which a dabbawala can ascertain the origin, the destination and other crucial information. With great interest and countless questions, I followed Paangare from Churchgate to a delivery at his final destination (Mafatlal Centre, an office building in Nariman Point).<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_10\" class=\"body-block text-block body-block-article-content-block\">\n<div class=\"entry\">\n<h2><strong>A complex system<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>In an age when nearly all logistics have moved to electronic coding and tracking, it was fascinating to see a system that appeared so haphazard and yet worked with astounding accuracy and efficiency. The system relies entirely on human processing, from the cooking of each meal to the reading of each individual tiffin box to the physical delivery of each parcel. And it operates nearly flawlessly, with errors being reported so rarely that the rate of successful deliveries is close to 100 percent. The dabbawala system is a reflection of the Mumbai that surrounds it: incredibly organised chaos.<\/p>\n<p>My immersion in the world of dabbawalas served as the best possible introduction to the city\u2019s train system, and to the Fort and Nariman Point areas of Mumbai. Once the delivery was complete, I returned to the Hotel, where a warm vegetarian tiffin box awaited my attention. Though my own lunch might not have arrived from a faraway corner of Mumbai, I was able to unwind and enjoy some delicious food with a new-found comprehension of the craft, customs and systems behind this daily ritual.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"body_block_11\" class=\"body-block large-body-media body-block-cta-large-body text-class\">\n<div class=\"large-body-cta-container\">\n<div class=\"section-head\">\n<h2 class=\"section-title\">Your Journey Begins Here<\/h2>\n<p>Start planning your trip to Mumbai<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<picture class=\"cta-image\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-970x369.jpeg\" media=\"(min-width: 768px)\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\"  width=\"970\" height=\"369\"  src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-970x369.jpeg\"  class=\"\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-970x369.jpeg 970w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-300x114.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-768x292.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-1024x389.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM.jpeg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 970px) 100vw, 970px\" \/>                <\/picture>\n<div class=\"cta-selector-container\">\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<div class=\"cta-selector dropdown\">\n                            <button class=\"btn btn-default dropdown-toggle\" type=\"button\" id=\"cta-dropdown\" data-toggle=\"dropdown\" aria-haspopup=\"true\" aria-expanded=\"false\"><br \/>\n                                Mumbai                                <span class=\"icon-chevron-down\"><\/span><br \/>\n                            <\/button><\/p>\n<ul id=\"fs-explored-more-cta\" class=\"dropdown-menu\" aria-labelledby=\"cta-dropdown\">\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/mumbai\/\" data-image=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/property-feature-image-MUM-970x369.jpeg\">Mumbai<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul><\/div>\n<p>                        <a class=\"large-cta-btn btn btn-primary btn-main\" href=\"http:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/mumbai\/\">Explore<\/a>\n                    <\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>        <script>\n            $(function() {\n                \/\/ Dropdown menu control\n                \/\/ Listen for changes in the dropdown and updated the property image accordingly\n                $(\"#body_block_11 .dropdown-menu li a\").click(function(e) {\n                    \/\/ prevent default behaviors\n                   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complex lunch-box delivery 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