{"id":164752,"date":"2026-05-26T19:22:10","date_gmt":"2026-05-26T23:22:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fsmadmin.vsitesting3.com\/magazine\/?p=164752"},"modified":"2026-05-26T19:22:11","modified_gmt":"2026-05-26T23:22:11","slug":"philadelphia-insiders-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/from-the-magazine\/philadelphia-insiders-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"The Philadelphia Story"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Three illuminated tickers span the lofty ceiling at\u00a0Vernick Coffee Bar. Given that this lovely caf\u00e9 resides at\u00a0Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia at Comcast Center<\/a> and\u00a0is\u00a0inside the 60-floor skyscraper that (along with the 58-story\u00a0tower next door) houses the headquarters of the media and entertainment company, you might assume the scrolls run stock quotes or breaking news or at least a requisite \u201cGo Birds!\u201d Instead, travelling overhead during a recent lunch were quotes and affirmations of questionable wisdom like, \u201cA Relaxed Man Is Not Necessarily a Better Man.\u201d The artist Jenny Holzer penned that pearl. But\u00a0perhaps she\u00a0never had the pleasure of Vernick Coffee\u2019s craggy scone cloaked in lemon icing on a lazy weekday afternoon.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019d\u00a0stopped by after touring the nearby Calder Gardens<\/a>, a new indoor-\u200boutdoor museum that has more than 20 metal sculptures and delicate mobiles from the third-generation Philadelphia-born sculptor Alexander \u201cSandy\u201d\u00a0Calder (1898\u20131976).\u00a0He\u2019s\u00a0artistic royalty in Philly: His grandfather, Alexander\u00a0Milne Calder, created the William Penn\u00a0statue\u00a0that tops City Hall, and his father, Alexander Stirling Calder, worked on the grand Swann Memorial Fountain where generations of kids have splashed among the work\u2019s bronze turtles and frogs. The Calder Gardens, designed by Herzog & de Meuron and Piet Oudolf, and the elder Calders\u2019 works are all\u00a0located\u00a0less than a mile from each other, dotted along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. Modelled after Paris\u2019s Champs-\u00c9lys\u00e9es, the Parkway is Philly\u2019s cultural powerhouse, holding the most\u00a0Rodins\u00a0in the United States at the Rodin Museum<\/a> and the most Renoirs and C\u00e9zannes in the world at the Barnes Foundation<\/a>, both a short walk from Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia at Comcast Center.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the Calder Gardens, the collection of works is similarly impressive, as is the architecture. Celestial light wells and papercut-slit windows, set in an undulating landscape, pour sun into an underground den, hollowed out from disused parkland and clad in crusty rock, smooth concrete, and blonde hemlock. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Vernick Fish at Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia at Comcast Center<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Calder Gardens, the new indoor-\u200boutdoor museum that holds the metal sculptures and delicate mobiles of Philadelphia-born sculptor Alexander Calder<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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At\u00a0times narrow and shadowy, then grand and bright, it reminded me of a cenote you walk instead of\u00a0swim\u00a0through. The design is a revolution\u2014fitting for\u00a0Calder, fitting for a city that was the political heart of one of the world\u2019s most famous revolutions. The 250th anniversary this year marks the signing in Philadelphia of the Declaration of Independence and the country\u2019s symbolic birthday.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Founded in 1682, Philly has been getting ready for 2026\u2019s anniversary celebration for two years, spending tens of millions of dollars to refresh historic sites like Independence Hall (where the U.S. Constitution was signed in 1787), the Liberty Bell, and Franklin Square, named for Benjamin Franklin, who performed his kite-and-key experiment in 1752. Along with the debut of the Calder Gardens, new galleries have opened at the Museum of the American Revolution<\/a> and the National Constitution Center<\/a>. And\u2014cue the\u00a0Hamilton<\/em>\u00a0soundtrack\u2014the long-shuttered First Bank<\/a>, housed in a dramatic Greek Revival building with a glass-domed rotunda, is reopening a museum dedicated to the early American economy. Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia at Comcast Center<\/a>, a peaceful refuge whose glass elevators and wraparound windows make you feel like\u00a0you\u2019re\u00a0floating among the clouds, has been getting ready for the 250th, too. Eight luxurious residential-style accommodations compose the airy new Sky Garden floor, furnished with its own wellness salon and Calder-inspired artworks, and the expansive alfresco decks of the Sky Terrace Suite and the Sky Terrace Penthouse (both part of Four Seasons Villa & Residence Rentals Collection<\/a>) are unrivalled in Philly.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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The new Sky Terrace Penthouse at Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia at Comcast Center is part of the\u00a0global\u00a0Four Seasons Villa & Residence Rentals Collection.\u00a0<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Meanwhile, south of the city, Longwood Gardens<\/a>, which Pierre S. du Pont founded in 1907, is fresh off a $250 million renovation of its 1,100-plus acres. The new West Conservatory, with its espaliered exotic citrus and bonsai collection, is one reason to make the\u00a0roughly 40-minute\u00a0drive. The 1906 restaurant\u2014with its suave horseshoe booths overlooking the Fountain Garden and a menu featuring dishes like agnolotti with Maryland crab\u2014is a reason to stay for dinner. The food is as good as anywhere in the city, and there is so much good right now in the city, restaurant-wise, even a local like me has trouble keeping up.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cPhilly is changing and growing fast, so it keeps pushing me,\u201d says chef Greg Vernick (of the eponymous caf\u00e9). When the James Beard Foundation named him the Mid-Atlantic region\u2019s best chef in 2017, tempting expansion offers followed. \u201cThey teach you a lot about what kind of chef you want to be and\u00a0what direction makes the most sense for you, your family, and your team.\u201d Instead,\u00a0he opened two dining spots, the caf\u00e9 and Vernick Fish<\/a> at Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia at Comcast Center, along with a nearby wine shop next to his flagship, Vernick Food & Drink<\/a>, near Rittenhouse Square. Earlier this year, he added an Italian restaurant, Emilia<\/a>, across town. In Philly, he says, \u201cyou feel lucky to be part of a strong community.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Tropical succulents and palms grow in the new West Conservatory at Longwood Gardens. Photograph by Holden Barnes for Longwood Gardens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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The All-American Cheese Pie at Char in Philadelphia\u2019s Olde Kensington neighbourhood. Photograph by K.C.\u00a0Tinari.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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For a long time, that community was all Philadelphians had. Overshadowed by major\u00a0centres\u00a0of finance (New York) and power (Washington, D.C.), we had to be our own fans. The \u201cNo one likes us\u2014we don\u2019t care\u201d mentality, adopted and voiced by the beloved former Eagles\u00a0centre\u00a0Jason Kelce, resonated after the underdog football team won the Super Bowl in 2018. Eight years (and another Super Bowl ring) later, the us-against-the-world battle cry is a little less potent. The world is with us now. Philadelphia will host six matches for the FIFA World Cup this summer, culminating in a knockout on Independence Day. Michelin, which just added Philly to its Northeast Cities Guide, pinned stars on three restaurants and Bib Gourmands on 10 others, including two excellent new-school cheesesteak joints, Angelo\u2019s<\/a> and Del Rossi\u2019s<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our chefs take risks and bet on themselves. Viraj Thomas, the city\u2019s\u00a0it-boy pizzaiolo, opened his own shop, Char<\/a>, in\u00a0Olde Kensington, at just 21 years old. Catch him shuffling transcendent, leopard-spotted pies into and out of his wood-burning oven, sporting the big smile illustrative of his scrappy-go-lucky charisma. About a mile away, on North Broad Street, Omar Tate and\u00a0Cybille\u00a0St. Aude-Tate run Honeysuckle<\/a>, one of the most ambitious and significant culinary projects in the country. Each profoundly delicious plate\u2014Mississippi Delta tamales with Wagyu beef cheek; a subversively extravagant take on a Happy Meal starring a burger piled with truffles, caviar, and gold leaf\u2014tells a story about Black foodways, in a gallery-like space on the city\u2019s historic Black commercial corridor.\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Alexander Calder\u2019s\u00a03 Segments<\/em>\u00a0(top left) and\u00a0Jerusalem Stabile II\u00a0<\/em>are on view at the new Calder Gardens.\u00a0Photograph by Tom\u00a0Powell; artwork by Alexander\u00a0Calder\u00a0\u00a92025\u00a0Calder\u00a0Foundation, New\u00a0York\u00a0\/ Artists Rights Society (ARS), New\u00a0York.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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In South Philly, on East Passyunk Avenue\u2014long a cornerstone of Philadelphia\u2019s Italian-American community\u2014that heritage persists in businesses like Mancuso\u2019s<\/a> deli and Palizzi Social Club<\/a>, the century-old hangout whose off-menu chicken cutlet directly inspired a Southeast Asian analogue at Phila and Rachel Lorn\u2019s new Passyunk hot spot, Sao<\/a>. Anchored by a raw bar where oysters get anointed with kinetic\u00a0Kampot\u00a0black-pepper sauce and crudos shimmer with makrut lime, ginger, and chiles, Sao is ostensibly a seafood restaurant, but \u201cthe [chicken] cutlet is the one-at-every-table dish,\u201d says Phila, winner of the James Beard Foundation\u2019s Emerging Chef award last year. Crispy, brown, and craggy, it stretches past the edges of its plate, like the foundation of any number of\u00a0neighbourhood\u00a0parms, but instead of marinara and mozzarella, Lorn \u201cgraffitis\u201d the cutlet with sticky fish-sauce caramel, adds salt pickles and Thai basil, then buries the whole thing in grated Parmigiano. The remix is as outrageous as it sounds.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A few\u00a0blocks up\u00a0from Sao, a candy-cane-striped awning marks Red Gravy Goods<\/a>, the newest in chef Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran\u2019s collection of restaurants and boutiques. Their first in South Philly, it reps the\u00a0neighbourhood\u00a0hard with Jalen Hurts sweatshirts and diner-style mugs asserting \u201cSouth Philly is always a Good Idea.\u201d Says Turney from behind the shop\u2019s custom-hat-patch bar, \u201cWe love the old-school nostalgia. People here are proud of where they live.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After she pressed soft-pretzel and water-ice patches\u2014representing the essential summer duo\u2014onto a ballcap for me, I popped it on my head and continued along East Passyunk to its terminus in leafy Society Hill. Despite swaths of the neighbourhood being razed by city planner Edmund Bacon (actor Kevin\u2019s father) during 1950s and \u201960s urban renewal, it remains one of the most historically significant areas in town. Paved in bumpy cobblestones and lined with red-brick row houses whose sidewalks have cast-iron boot scrapers and hitching posts from the horse-and-carriage days, its sites include Head House Square, home to the long-running Sunday farmers market, the Hill-Physick House, and churches from the 1700s. Gloria Dei (Olde Swedes\u2019) Church, in adjacent Queen Village, is even older, built in 1698 by the Swedish settlers who predated William Penn. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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A Man Full of Trouble, the last remaining pre-Revolutionary War tavern in Philadelphia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Peaceful grounds surround Gloria Dei (Old Swedes\u2019) Church in Queen Village.\u00a0Photograph by Mikaln\u00a0\/\u00a0iStock\u00a0\/\u00a0Getty\u00a0Images Plus.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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These streets are where the Revolution fomented, in meetinghouses like A Man Full of Trouble<\/a>, the only remaining pre\u2013Revolutionary War tavern in the city. \u201cAt the time, everybody was under the thumb of a king,\u201d the 25-seat\u00a0tavern\u2019s\u00a0owner, Dan Wheeler, tells me over a twangy, wild-fermented ale. \u201cWe did this incredible thing, and it lit the match for democracy everywhere. The\u00a0audacity<\/em>, right?\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The semiretired attorney is referring to the colonists, but the word also applies to him. When he saw A Man Full of Trouble, closed to the public since 1996, go up for sale, he thought, You can\u2019t buy that<\/em>. He figured it was owned by the National Park Service. It was actually owned by the University of Pennsylvania, which was using the circa-1759 building as off-site student housing. \u201cI bought it right away,\u201d he says. The downstairs bar is run by Succession Fermentory (a brewery in Chester County) and furnished with colonial chairs, mustard wainscoting, and a tiled hearth. Upstairs is Wheeler\u2019s baby, the best secret museum on American history in Philadelphia. He points out a cannon from the Siege of Yorktown and the first British-printed edition of Thomas Paine\u2019s Common Sense<\/em>. The gaps in the pamphlet\u2019s type are redacted criticisms of King George III. In their spaces, the original owner of the pamphlet defiantly filled the charges back in by hand. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wheeler self-deprecatingly refers to his collection as \u201cthe finest museum you can buy on eBay,\u201d but one item, acquired by auction at Sotheby\u2019s, has his downright reverence: a stack of yellowed papers with time-eaten edges but surprisingly clear ink. \u201cThis is the oldest copy of the Constitution you\u2019ve ever seen in your life, printed three days after it was passed,\u201d Wheeler says. \u201cOnly a handful of these [exist].\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1776, Philly changed the world.\u00a0The audacity<\/em>. Wheeler\u2019s words echoed in my head at Vernick Coffee. I ate my scone and drank my latte, and another quote scrolled overhead: \u201cA Solid Home Base Builds a Sense of Self.\u201d That might\u00a0not play elsewhere, in cities where home\u00a0represents\u00a0an anchor. For Philly\u2019s modern\u00a0revolutionaries,\u00a0it\u2019s\u00a0a springboard. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As the United States celebrates its 250th anniversary, we visit its birthplace\u2014a city rich in history and culture, and fueled by an ambitious food scene. 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