{"id":162977,"date":"2025-08-26T10:26:58","date_gmt":"2025-08-26T14:26:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/?p=162977"},"modified":"2025-08-26T11:20:49","modified_gmt":"2025-08-26T15:20:49","slug":"new-luxury-ingredients-fine-dining","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/food-drink\/new-luxury-ingredients-fine-dining\/","title":{"rendered":"Luxury Redefined: Fine Dining&#8217;s New &#8216;It&#8217; Ingredients"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:50%\">\n<p>What if luxury is not what you think it is? We tend to view certain foods as fixed and universal signifiers of \u201cliving well.\u201d These are the ingredients that make everyone at the table smile and sigh when the server mentions them, and they\u2019re the ingredients that usually come accompanied by a supplement, meaning that the server is happy to ask the kitchen to dollop or shave one of them onto your dish as long as you\u2019re amenable to paying an extra $100 or so. Truffles, caviar, foie gras\u2014behold the Three Musketeers of haute cuisine, with uni increasingly cast as the young D\u2019Artagnan who has joined forces with the classic trio. Such ingredients have become so entrenched in contemporary menus, so ubiquitous, you might assume they\u2019ve always dominated the epicurean conversation.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But luxury evolves\u2014it moves around. One era\u2019s cattle feed is the next era\u2019s pricey indulgence. As the food essayist and <em>New York Times<\/em> critic Ligaya Mishan has written, \u201cIn medieval Russia, caviar was a peasant staple, less expensive than fish itself.\u201d So abundant were the briny sturgeon eggs, and so removed from any idea of fanciness, that once upon a time, country folks shoveled heaps of caviar to their pigs \u201cto fatten them up,\u201d as Mishan tells us. (Lucky swine!)&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Luxury is evolving right now, too, and the new idea of opulence often manifests in subtle ways. Beyond the realm of caviar and truffles, there are other ingredients whose appearance on a menu tells you that the chef is thinking deeply about the art of cooking and the experience of pleasure. Maybe the chef has decided to elevate staples, such as rice, corn, and butter, or draw on ancient methods of intensifying flavour by drying out an ingredient, be it salty mullet roe or a sweet persimmon. Here we present five examples of extravagance-in-evolution: five ingredients that represent la dolce vita in 2025, even though they\u2019ve been around for centuries.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Heirloom Masa<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"778\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-778x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Heirloom Masa, Photo by Vanessa Granda, Food Styling by Pearl Jones\" class=\"wp-image-163018\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-778x1024.jpg 778w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-228x300.jpg 228w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-768x1011.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-1167x1536.jpg 1167w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-1556x2048.jpg 1556w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-vanessa-granda-scaled.jpg 1945w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 778px) 100vw, 778px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph by Vanessa Granda; food styling by Pearl Jones.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"778\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-maureen-evans-683x1024-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-163054\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-maureen-evans-683x1024-1.jpg 778w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-maureen-evans-683x1024-1-228x300.jpg 228w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/masa-maureen-evans-683x1024-1-768x1011.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 778px) 100vw, 778px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph by Maureen Evans.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:50%\">\n<p>Dine in one of lauded chef Enrique Olvera\u2019s restaurants\u2014maybe <a href=\"https:\/\/pujol.com.mx\/\">Pujol<\/a> in Mexico City, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cosmenyc.com\/\">Cosme<\/a> in New York, or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.damiandtla.com\/\">Damian<\/a> in Los Angeles\u2014and you realize that few things come close to the deep, glorious earthiness of a tortilla made with heirloom masa. In fact, Olvera himself speaks of this ingredient in almost mystical terms: \u201cThe ability to taste the place,\u201d he says. That, to him, represents the soul of luxury, especially in this age in which sturgeons can spend years swimming back and forth in stationary pools for the production of farm-raised caviar. \u201cLuxury now is whatever is from that place that you cannot get any other place,\u201d he says. \u201cThat flavour from the heirloom corn is from the soil, and flavour is a reflection of the health of the soil.\u201d&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Heirloom corn, unlike its mass-market counterpart, comes in myriad hues and husks and sizes and names, from Pink Xocoyul (native to Tlaxcala, Mexico) to Cacahuazintle, a large, white variety used in pozole. And through the centuries-old process of nixtamalization\u2014the soaking of kernels in an alkaline solution that unlocks their essence (as well as their nutrients)\u2014the resulting masa dough can express itself in an endless spectrum of flavours: nuttiness, sweetness, barnyard-iness, even cheesiness.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At Atlas Restaurant Group\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/baltimore\/dining\/restaurants\/maximon\/\">Maxim\u00f3n<\/a> in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/baltimore\/\">Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore<\/a>, Atlas corporate chef Aaron Taylor goes the distance in pursuit of these truer flavours and textures. He and the Maxim\u00f3n team buy whole yellow, blue, and white kernels from Masienda, a respected supplier of heirloom corn, and they nixtamalize and grind them on-site for tacos and quesadillas. \u201cWe do this every single day,\u201d Taylor says. It\u2019s a serious investment of time and labor, he adds, but \u201cI think our tortillas are far superior to anything you find around town.\u201d&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Masa isn\u2019t just food; it\u2019s culture. When chef Miguel Soltero at Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo in Mexico offers a quesadilla de milpa made with heirloom masa, that simple dish tells a story about all the good things that come from the <em>milpa<\/em>, or field, from corn to squash to chiles. And when Olvera, at Pujol in Mexico City, offers a basket of tortillas alongside a \u201cmole madre\u201d that has aged and deepened for longer than a decade, he is serving the greatest luxury of all: time.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Beurre de Baratte<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/emerils-butter-food-story-media-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Butter at Emeril's Courtesy of Food Story Media\" class=\"wp-image-163023\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/emerils-butter-food-story-media-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/emerils-butter-food-story-media-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/emerils-butter-food-story-media-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/emerils-butter-food-story-media-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/emerils-butter-food-story-media.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Beurre de Baratte at Emeril&#8217;s. Photograph courtesy of Food Story Media.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:50%\">\n<p>At <a href=\"https:\/\/emerilsrestaurant.com\/\">Emeril\u2019s<\/a> in New Orleans, a cart rolls up to the table, crowned by a pale yellow pyramid. That creamy tower is a solid mass of Beurre de Baratte, a French butter whose slightly tangy and nutty base notes and borderline cheesiness of texture come from the patient, tedious, time-honoured practice of churning milk by hand. \u201cI prefer Beurre de Baratte, as it\u2019s rich and complex,\u201d says E.J. Lagasse, the chef at Emeril\u2019s in New Orleans. (Yes, he\u2019s Emeril\u2019s kid.) \u201cI love the saltiness of it and the velvety texture. In my opinion, it\u2019s ideal served at room temperature, which is how we serve it at Emeril\u2019s.\u201d&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The man behind the spread is Rodolphe Le Meunier, who grew up in a cheesemaking family in France, and whose approach to butter is patient and traditional and precise: cream from Normandy cows gets a chance to ferment, \u00e0 la yogurt, before being churned and molded with wooden equipment of the type that might have been used hundreds of years ago. The result is cultured\u2014in all senses of that word. It has depth.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cornerofficetaos.com\/\">Corner Office<\/a>, a wine bar in Taos, New Mexico, you might encounter it as a soft and silky bed for sardines. But the butter is so delicious that at top spots around the world\u2014including the three-Michelin-star restaurant <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/hongkong\/dining\/restaurants\/caprice\/\">Caprice<\/a> at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/hongkong\/\">Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong<\/a>\u2014chefs step back and let it own the spotlight, serving Le Meunier\u2019s Beurre de Baratte seasonally with bread. That\u2019s it\u2014that\u2019s the dish. What could be more luxurious?&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bottarga<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1945\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Bottarga, Photo by Vanessa Granda, Food Styled by Pearl Jones\" class=\"wp-image-163027\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-scaled.jpg 1945w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-228x300.jpg 228w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-778x1024.jpg 778w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-768x1011.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-1167x1536.jpg 1167w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/bottarga-vanessa-granda-1556x2048.jpg 1556w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1945px) 100vw, 1945px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph by Vanessa Granda; food styling by Pearl Jones.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1945\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-163052\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1.jpg 1945w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1-228x300.jpg 228w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1-778x1024.jpg 778w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1-768x1011.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1-1167x1536.jpg 1167w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/warm-octopus-salad-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong-scaled-1-1556x2048.jpg 1556w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1945px) 100vw, 1945px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Warm octopus salad with bottarga, at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p>&nbsp;\u201cI love [bottarga]. I eat it just cut up with a little olive oil on it. Caviar has its place, but bottarga has so much more complexity, for me. It\u2019s one of those ingredients that\u2019s still a little cultish.&#8221; <br>\u2014Nicholas Stefanelli, chef at Masseria<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:50%\">\n<p>How special is bottarga? Put it this way: Jurgen Kulli, executive chef at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/maldiveslg\/dining\/restaurants\/fuego_grill\/\">Fuego Grill<\/a> at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/maldiveslg\/\">Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru<\/a>, uses bottarga that makes a trip all the way from the Mediterranean island of Sardinia to his kitchen on an island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. \u201cIt\u2019s very rich in flavour,\u201d says Kulli, who serves it with a carpaccio of dry-aged cobia, the large and hard-to-catch whitefish known for its subtle sweetness.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bottarga doesn\u2019t necessarily <em>sound <\/em>inviting\u2014it\u2019s basically a lobe of mullet roe that has been compressed and desiccated in the sun until it\u2019s a chunk of orange-yellow umami wax\u2014but at first taste, all doubts evaporate. At <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/sydney\/dining\/restaurants\/mode-kitchen-and-bar\/\">Mode Kitchen &amp; Bar<\/a> at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/sydney\/\">Four Seasons Hotel Sydney<\/a>, executive chef Gaurav Bide views it as the perfect funky counterpunch to fresh seafood, serving it shaved over yellowfin tuna tartare. At <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/hongkong\/dining\/restaurants\/the_lounge\/\">The Lounge<\/a> at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, bottarga adds a bold note to the warm octopus salad.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cI love it,\u201d adds Nicholas Stefanelli, the chef at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.masseria-dc.com\/\">Masseria<\/a>, a Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in Washington, D.C., who sources his bottarga from Gustiamo, a way station in New York\u2019s South Bronx for all good things from Italy. \u201cI eat it just cut up with a little olive oil on it. Caviar has its place, but bottarga has so much more complexity, for me. It\u2019s one of those ingredients that\u2019s still a little cultish.\u201d At Masseria, Stefanelli shaves it over stuffed pasta with spring peas; at home, he uses it to luxury-boost a baked potato. It tastes like the sea and the sun, and bottarga aficionados know that there is only one sensible response when you spy it on a menu: Order it.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Heirloom Rice<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"778\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/heirloom-rice-vanessa-granda-1024x778.jpg\" alt=\"Heirloom Rice, Photo by Vanessa Granda, Food Styled by Pearl Jones\" class=\"wp-image-163032\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/heirloom-rice-vanessa-granda-1024x778.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/heirloom-rice-vanessa-granda-300x228.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/heirloom-rice-vanessa-granda-768x583.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/heirloom-rice-vanessa-granda-1536x1167.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/heirloom-rice-vanessa-granda-2048x1556.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Heirloom Rice, Photo by Vanessa Granda, Food Styled by Pearl Jones<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:50%\">\n<p>Anyone who has enjoyed the highest level of sushi artistry knows what a difference the rice can make. Far from a bland canvas for fish, rice is often the component of a meal through which sushi chefs express the core spirit of their approach to omakase, selecting based on the grain\u2019s taste, texture, and serving temperature. This is true beyond sushi counters as well. When chefs opt to use premium strains of rice that are rooted in tradition and terroir, take note, because this tells you that you\u2019re in a restaurant that prefers not to cut corners.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>What\u2019s that nuttiness that you taste when you get a mouthful of shrimp risotto at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dunsmoor.la\/\">Dunsmoor<\/a>, a Los Angeles spot that celebrates traditional American foodways, or jollof-inspired crab rice at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bludornrestaurant.com\/\">Bludorn<\/a>, a Houston restaurant with an innovative approach to global ingredients? It\u2019s Carolina Gold. An American variety, it was originally cultivated in the Lowcountry of South Carolina by West Africans who had been enslaved for their agriculture knowledge, and it almost vanished until the team at the heirloom grain company Anson Mills rescued it from obscurity. \u201cWe use it in all four of our restaurants,\u201d says chef Aaron Bludorn. \u201cThere\u2019s a richness to it that I can taste\u2014almost a meatiness.\u201d&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sticky and pearly, koshihikari rice is at the opposite end of the spectrum. Where Carolina Gold is robust, koshihikari is diaphanous, which is why chef Rogelio Garcia uses it to accompany Japanese bluefin tuna at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/napavalley\/dining\/restaurants\/auro\/\">Auro<\/a>, the Michelin-starred restaurant at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/napavalley\/\">Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley<\/a>. \u201cI love working with koshihikari because of its pearl-like texture and aromatic quality,\u201d he says. \u201cThere\u2019s a subtle sweetness to it, a clean finish that allows the fish to shine while quietly elevating the dish. It\u2019s not just about taste\u2014its colour and sheen also create a beautifully refined presentation on the plate.\u201d Rice is nice, but koshihikari and Carolina Gold are just a little bit nicer.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Hoshigaki<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"778\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"163036\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-778x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Hoshigaki, Photo by Vanessa Granda; Food Styled by Pearl Jones\" class=\"wp-image-163036\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-778x1024.jpg 778w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-228x300.jpg 228w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-768x1011.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-1167x1536.jpg 1167w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-1556x2048.jpg 1556w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-vanessa-granda-scaled.jpg 1945w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 778px) 100vw, 778px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph by Vanessa Granda; food styling by Pearl Jones.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"694\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"163037\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-four-seasons-hotel-otemachi-694x1024.png\" alt=\"Hoshigaki at Four Seasons Hotel Otemachi\" class=\"wp-image-163037\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-four-seasons-hotel-otemachi-694x1024.png 694w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-four-seasons-hotel-otemachi-203x300.png 203w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-four-seasons-hotel-otemachi-768x1133.png 768w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-four-seasons-hotel-otemachi-1042x1536.png 1042w, https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/hoshigaki-four-seasons-hotel-otemachi.png 1125w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 694px) 100vw, 694px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A hoshigaki dessert at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<p>If you have a food-obsessed friend who makes the Japanese snack at home (a practice that has been trending in recent years), you might spy hachiya persimmons drying in their kitchen. Squint and they almost look like golden lanterns hanging from a temple. The persimmons dangle on strings in sunlight and fresh air until they shrivel into gnarled, chewy, sugar-dusted delights. (Caretakers have to massage them now and then to break down pulp\u2014talk about luxury.) They\u2019ve been revered in Japan and across Asia for hundreds of years, but only in recent decades have hoshigaki begun appearing on Western menus. Raisins and prunes, of course, represent common examples of what happens when we concentrate the flavour of fruits by drying them out, but hoshigaki (known as gotgam in Korea) can take that process to an exalted place.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pair them with a sharp cheese\u2014as chef Ignacio Mattos occasionally does at <a href=\"https:\/\/estelanyc.com\/\">Estela<\/a>, his intimate and creatively influential flagship on East Houston Street in New York City\u2014and the marriage of fruit and funk will make you melt on the spot. Honouring the seasonal nature of this Asian delicacy, pastry chef Michele Abbatemarco, of Michelin-starred <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/otemachi\/dining\/restaurants\/est\/\">est<\/a> restaurant at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/otemachi\/\">Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi<\/a>, serves hoshigaki in the autumn months with ricotta cream, chamomile gelato, persimmon jelly, candied persimmons, a mandarin sauce, and a dusting of coffee powder. Whatever the presentation, the best approach is to take your time relishing every bite\u2014dried persimmons are a slow food, after all.\u202f&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Caviar and foie gras are no longer the be-all and end-all of dining extravagance, argues globe-trotting food writer Jeff Gordinier, who extols five delectable alternatives. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":244,"featured_media":163023,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"153133,149668,128421,45999,97403,98653","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1466,1471,1465],"tags":[825],"class_list":["post-162977","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food-drink","category-from-the-magazine","category-travel","tag-restaurants","destination-four-seasons-hotel-baltimore","destination-four-seasons-hotel-hong-kong","destination-four-seasons-hotel-sydney","destination-four-seasons-hotel-tokyo-at-otemachi","destination-four-seasons-resort-and-residences-napa-valley","destination-four-seasons-resort-maldives-at-landaa-giraavaru","destination-four-seasons-resort-tamarindo-mexico"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- 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