{"id":162328,"date":"2025-06-14T10:18:38","date_gmt":"2025-06-14T14:18:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fsmdemo.vsitesting3.com\/magazine\/?p=162328"},"modified":"2025-09-05T13:24:08","modified_gmt":"2025-09-05T17:24:08","slug":"mexico-city-food-tour-a-world-of-flavors-in-24-hours","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fourseasons.com\/magazine\/food-drink\/mexico-city-food-tour-a-world-of-flavors-in-24-hours\/","title":{"rendered":"Mexico City Food Tour: A World of Flavours in 24 Hours"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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The Michelin Guide awarded a total of 26 stars throughout Mexico in 2024. It was the first time the coveted restaurant guide recognized the country\u2019s vast cuisine, which was molded by Mexico\u2019s indigenous culture and the influences of Spain\u2019s colonization that linger to this day.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was also a pivotal moment in Mexico\u2019s 13,000-year-old food culture, because the secret was officially out to the rest of the world: Mexican food is the best, boldest, and most diverse cuisine. The country that gifted the world such crucial staple ingredients as tomatoes, chiles, cacao, vanilla beans, chia seeds, spirulina, and perhaps the most quintessential ingredient used for everything from food to fuel\u2014corn\u2014finally got its overdue flowers on the international culinary stage. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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The world\u2019s only Michelin star\u2013rated taqueria, in Mexico City, offers just four tacos on the menu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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It\u2019s not that a country that has maintained much of its indigenous identity and foodways needed a European-based tire company to validate its food. Still, the Michelin Guide aims a wrecking ball at the watered-down, cheesy, rich, sleeping-Mexican-on-a-saguaro representation of the cuisine that has existed around the world for so many years. \u201cMany people don\u2019t understand that Mexican cuisine is a \u2018mother cuisine,\u2019\u201d says Pati Jinich, cookbook author, chef, and host of the PBS television shows La Frontera<\/em> and Pati\u2019s Mexican Table<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jinich was a political analyst before she switched to food; now, she\u2019s the country\u2019s most prominent advocate for defending regional Mexican food throughout her work in the United States.\u202f\u201cIt\u2019s a global cuisine with Mexican pillars,\u201d she says, \u201cand has become stronger and bigger thanks to all the immigrant waves that have come into Mexico.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arabic shawarma gave rise to al pastor tacos. Italian pasta begat fideo, Mexican-style angel hair cooked with tomato. From France arose Guadalajara\u2019s baguette-like birote sourdough, the basis of Jalisco\u2019s beloved lonches and tortas ahogadas. And the distillation tools and techniques for mezcal and tequila arrived via the Manila Galleon Spanish trade route from the Philippines to Mexico. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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“Many people don\u2019t understand that Mexican cuisine is a \u2018mother cuisine,\u2019\u201d says Pati Jinich, chef and host of the PBS television shows La Frontera<\/em> and Pati\u2019s Mexican Table<\/em>.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Mexico is also home to the world\u2019s only Michelin star\u2013rated taqueria, Taquer\u00eda El Califa de Le\u00f3n<\/a>, located in Mexico City\u2019s Cuauht\u00e9moc district. Opened in 1969, it offers only four tacos, but they\u2019re some of the country\u2019s most simple, clean-tasting, and satisfying: seared bistec (chuck steak), grilled chuleta (pork chop), gaonera (ribeye), or costilla (beef rib). They are served on perfect corn tortillas made to order on a roller and simply adorned with a refreshing raw tomatillo salsa or a spicier and more complex red salsa made with dried red chiles.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bring up Mexico City to any food-obsessed person, and they will likely start shouting out their favourite spots. The capital city\u2014or CDMX (Ciudad de M\u00e9xico), as it is now called, instead of its old name, \u201cMexico DF\u201d\u2014is home to nearly 10 million residents and boasts more than 57,000 restaurants, making for a dining scene rife with high-low thrills. Many of its inhabitants moved there generations ago from other parts of Mexico, and visiting there is one of the easiest ways to taste the country’s vast regional variations and enjoy both traditional food and new-school modern Mexican.\u00a0(To experience the best of the city today, from street eats and local markets to mezcal tastings, discover Mexico City Food Tours<\/a> led by local experts.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Taste of CDMX <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

One of my favourite ways to explore Mexico City\u2019s restaurants is to start the day at El Cardenal<\/a> in Centro Hist\u00f3rico and admire its traditional \u201ccaptain service,\u201d where an army of lifelong waiters is always ready to refill your mug full of frothy drinking chocolate until you say \u201cstop\u201d\u2014and another server is right behind them offering freshly baked warm, tender conchas (sweet bread) sandwiched with nata, a Mexican spreadable sweet cheese that is somewhere between clotted cream and stracciatella.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Frothy hot chocolate at El Cardenal.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Sweet bread with nata.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Afterward, I might walk off my breakfast through Centro\u2019s bustling cultural sights and sounds at Templo Mayor<\/a>, located next to El Cardenal, then go on to check out Diego Rivera\u2019s magnum opus mural inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes<\/a>. Mexico City is one of the most walkable cities, after all.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For a pre-lunch snack, I would take a cab to my favourite raw bar in the world, Mi Compa Chava<\/a>. It specializes in Mexico\u2019s national seafood delicacy of scallop-like pen shell clams called callo de hacha, hand-dived and delivered every other day from Sonora. Each clam is the size of a jicama and seasoned to eye-opening levels of umami with chef Salvador \u201cChava\u201d Orozco\u2019s crushed peppercorn-like chiltep\u00edn chiles and salsas. Also obligatory is the handmade coconut soft serve, and if you are lucky enough to be there during Mexico\u2019s mango season, their mango variation made with Colima\u2019s rare barranque\u00f1o variety of ultra-sweet mangos.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next comes lunch at Oma, the Japanese omakase restaurant<\/a> helmed by Abraham L\u00f3pez, the Japanese-trained chilango<\/em> (what you call someone who is proud to be from Mexico City) sushi chef at Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City<\/a>. He proudly sources his menu using 90 percent Mexican ingredients, including responsibly farmed bluefin tuna, totoaba fish, and Japanese vegetables grown in Cuernavaca, Mexico City\u2019s nearby city with warmer weather.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Zanaya at Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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L\u00f3pez sees many parallels in Mexican and Japanese cuisines, because they both greatly respect ingredients and tradition. \u201cI carry the Japanese spirit of wanting to get better every day,\u201d he says.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Omakase and tastefully inspired Mexican sushi are having a moment in Mexico, with restaurants like Oma calling dibs on prized seafood like toro and uni before it departs to Tokyo. On L\u00f3pez\u2019s menu, he takes inspiration from his Oaxacan roots and his mother, and he grates cacao onto Baja-grown kampachi and sears it so it\u2019s juicy and filled with sweet and salty flavours. \u201cOmakase does not have to be monotonous,\u201d he says. \u201cMy favourite moment is when Japanese and Korean customers are skeptical about having a Mexican omakase and leave surprised and shocked to hear that our seafood is all from Mexican waters. I love changing perceptions.\u201d\u202f <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For a more traditional coastal dinner, visit Zanaya, the innovative Mexican seafood restaurant<\/a> at Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City. Its menu is influenced by the cuisine of the state of Nayarit\u2014a true Mexican seafood powerhouse.\u00a0There you can make your own tableside tacos with the menu\u2019s smoky pescado zarandeado (fire-grilled fish) or try the electric-like aguachile, which is as spicy as it is refreshing. Either dish will transport you right to the Bah\u00eda de Banderas at first bite.\u202f<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Keval and Listman of Masala y Ma\u00edz. Photograph by Ana Lorenzana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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A fusion of global flavours at Masala y Ma\u00edz. Photograph by Ana Lorenzana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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A mind-melting dinner\u2014equal parts art, food, politics, and deliciousness\u2014awaits at Masala y Ma\u00edz<\/a>. Chefs and owners Norma Listman and Saqib Keval are among Mexico City\u2019s most passionate advocates for human rights. They let it be known through a revolving \u201ccall to action,\u201d a radical phrase posted on the front of their menus, and through interactions with their servers.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a thinking person\u2019s restaurant that melds South Asian, East African, and Mexican flavours and techniques in one stunning setting. Standout dishes include coconut milk esquite (warm shaved corn in broth), large shell-on prawns gently cooked in vanilla bean\u2013perfumed ghee, and a vegetarian infladita de ma\u00edz, which one eats like India\u2019s street food, pani puri. The wine list is all natural grapes and the kind of juice that sparks a conversation with your dining companion, sometimes by the colour alone as it is poured. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To end my ultimate day of indulging in CDMX, I would head to Enrique Olvera\u2019s lesser-known lo-fi mezcal bar, Ticuchi<\/a>, where guest deejays spin vinyl. Olvera is Mexico\u2019s most prolific chef and the pioneer of modern Mexican food. His flagship restaurant, Pujol<\/a>\u2014featuring a tasting menu and a taco omakase bar\u2014was awarded two Michelin stars last year.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ticuchi is his much more laid-back concept. Its six different margarita variations are all refreshing in their own way, and the more alcohol-forward \u201cNosferatu\u201d Negroni, infused with cacao blossoms, is one of the best cocktails in the city. Olvera-approved bar snacks include the utterly sensational tamal de esquite.  <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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